Need help putting in new enginemounts
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
Need help putting in new enginemounts
Okay to be able to remove the mounts I'm having to remove the whole controlarm (D). Don't know the english terms of these parts so I just lettered them so I can explain.
I'm taking the A-nut off in order to remove B that is in the way of the front C-nut. I need to get the C-nuts off so I can remove D which is in the way of the nuts that hold the mount (E) in place...... Hope this is clear enough..... Feel like I'm playing Tetris here, haha!!
It's B that seems to be stuck... or is it? Can't get it apart from the "steeringshaft". Does anyone know how it comes off??
Please ask if something is unclear.
I'm taking the A-nut off in order to remove B that is in the way of the front C-nut. I need to get the C-nuts off so I can remove D which is in the way of the nuts that hold the mount (E) in place...... Hope this is clear enough..... Feel like I'm playing Tetris here, haha!!
It's B that seems to be stuck... or is it? Can't get it apart from the "steeringshaft". Does anyone know how it comes off??
Please ask if something is unclear.
stuck how?
it wont come out of the hole or doesnt fit between the linkage and cross member?
i had to change my mounts awhile back and did it the same way you are. had to turn the wheels so the linkage moved enought to get that bolt out.
if it wont come out of the hole, just beat on it with a hammer. if that still doesnt work, use a bigger hammer!
it wont come out of the hole or doesnt fit between the linkage and cross member?
i had to change my mounts awhile back and did it the same way you are. had to turn the wheels so the linkage moved enought to get that bolt out.
if it wont come out of the hole, just beat on it with a hammer. if that still doesnt work, use a bigger hammer!
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
No I haven't tried turning the wheel becauce it looks as if that wouldn't make any difference, that the other shaft would still be in the way. But if it's worked for you guys maybe I'll give it a try.
The bolt part of B seems to be stuck in the hole and wount budge. Tried with the hammer but the nut is just getting deformed.... are there threads in the hole also or is it just really really stuck??
The bolt part of B seems to be stuck in the hole and wount budge. Tried with the hammer but the nut is just getting deformed.... are there threads in the hole also or is it just really really stuck??
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 6,652
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From: Oyth
Car: 89RS vert
Engine: Erod
Transmission: 4L65e
Axle/Gears: BW, 3.27
Originally posted by Liquid_Metal
No I haven't tried turning the wheel becauce it looks as if that wouldn't make any difference, that the other shaft would still be in the way. But if it's worked for you guys maybe I'll give it a try.
The bolt part of B seems to be stuck in the hole and wount budge. Tried with the hammer but the nut is just getting deformed.... are there threads in the hole also or is it just really really stuck??
No I haven't tried turning the wheel becauce it looks as if that wouldn't make any difference, that the other shaft would still be in the way. But if it's worked for you guys maybe I'll give it a try.
The bolt part of B seems to be stuck in the hole and wount budge. Tried with the hammer but the nut is just getting deformed.... are there threads in the hole also or is it just really really stuck??
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
wow. all to remove the engine mounts? I replaced both of mine without removing a since thing other than the bolts from the mount to the engine, and then of course the mount to the k member. Took a little thought but with the front tires off it took a whole hour to repalce both of them. the hardest part was the front most bolt.. made a little tool to grab ahold of the nut and off it came.
(this was on a thirdgen)
(this was on a thirdgen)
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by Angelis83LT
wow. all to remove the engine mounts? I replaced both of mine without removing a since thing other than the bolts from the mount to the engine, and then of course the mount to the k member. Took a little thought but with the front tires off it took a whole hour to repalce both of them. the hardest part was the front most bolt.. made a little tool to grab ahold of the nut and off it came.
(this was on a thirdgen)
wow. all to remove the engine mounts? I replaced both of mine without removing a since thing other than the bolts from the mount to the engine, and then of course the mount to the k member. Took a little thought but with the front tires off it took a whole hour to repalce both of them. the hardest part was the front most bolt.. made a little tool to grab ahold of the nut and off it came.
(this was on a thirdgen)
Believe me I tried doing this, but as you said it requires special tools. Do you have a pic of this tool u made? I'm sure I could have gotten them off without removing the controlarm, I was well on my way even. but I started thinking that I must get the nuts back in place also and this seemed to be the real difficult part. It was not easy seeing anything or moving the tools around inside the member. That's why I opted for this solution.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Bonne Terre, Mo.
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: TH350
I've done this w/o removing all that as well. Didn't have to make any special tools either. Just used end wrenches to get up in the frame. You just have to find the right spot to get 'em in there.
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
Originally posted by Liquid_Metal
Believe me I tried doing this, but as you said it requires special tools. Do you have a pic of this tool u made? I'm sure I could have gotten them off without removing the controlarm, I was well on my way even. but I started thinking that I must get the nuts back in place also and this seemed to be the real difficult part. It was not easy seeing anything or moving the tools around inside the member. That's why I opted for this solution.
Believe me I tried doing this, but as you said it requires special tools. Do you have a pic of this tool u made? I'm sure I could have gotten them off without removing the controlarm, I was well on my way even. but I started thinking that I must get the nuts back in place also and this seemed to be the real difficult part. It was not easy seeing anything or moving the tools around inside the member. That's why I opted for this solution.
I just made a specal one out of an old wrench and a socket.. a very long wrench ( so i could kep ahold of it and ten I welded a swivel extentino onto it and then used a socket. worked ewonders.
As far as putting things back together. just reverse it. put the nuts on the top side and thread the bolts through the holds with a telescopic magnet. amazing how much of a difference that makes when you go to remove them again.
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From: Newmarket, NH
Car: 91Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt Posi, 3.08
If you really need to remove B. Go to autozone and rent a balljoint separator. It will be cheaper then replacing that part.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
I'm having trouble getting a good hold on the nut which goes on the left mounts (drivers side) bolt (the one that goes through the rubber part) from the back. The exhaust is really in the way and the same size socket as on the front (bolt) doesn't seem to lock on to the nut. The only socket that feels like it fits is actually 2 sizes larger...? On the passenger side mount the bolthead is the same size as the nut. But can't get any leverage to the socket (on drivers side) anyhow coz the area is so cramped so don't even know for sure if it would fit or slip.
Any idéas guys?
Any idéas guys?
for the nut on the bottom i used the longest wrench i could find. I think i even used the 5/8"? wrench with the swivel-socket thing on the end of it. But i dont think i used the swivel-socket end, just the regular wrench head. I fed the wrench through some hole on the side and almost the wrench all the in to reach the nut.
I also had the engine out of the way... so you might be better off taking everything apart. I beleive the top bolt was a 15mm.
5/8 or 15mm should work but it was a while ago...
edit: i'm talking about the bolts and nuts that fasten the mount to the frame. The large bolt that goes through the mount has a different size for the bolt and nut. Just have your 15mm, 18mm and all your other metric wrenches handy.
I also had the engine out of the way... so you might be better off taking everything apart. I beleive the top bolt was a 15mm.
5/8 or 15mm should work but it was a while ago...
edit: i'm talking about the bolts and nuts that fasten the mount to the frame. The large bolt that goes through the mount has a different size for the bolt and nut. Just have your 15mm, 18mm and all your other metric wrenches handy.
Last edited by Firebat; Sep 15, 2005 at 09:07 PM.
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Harpersfield, OH
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
ok, i've done this recently, you need a pickel fork to separate those tie rods from the centerlink.
but i did like some of the other guys and was able to get to the motor mount nuts without removing the a-arms. I had just got all of that back together so there was no way i was gonna take it all back apart. anyway, i used i think a 15mm socket on a universal joint, onto a small extension, onto another universal, onto a longer extension, onto the ratchet. it take patience and finessing and some swaping the socket, extensions, and universals around till you get the ideal combo, but it worked. you'll need someone else to help you buy turning the bolts from above while you hold them from underneath.
but i did like some of the other guys and was able to get to the motor mount nuts without removing the a-arms. I had just got all of that back together so there was no way i was gonna take it all back apart. anyway, i used i think a 15mm socket on a universal joint, onto a small extension, onto another universal, onto a longer extension, onto the ratchet. it take patience and finessing and some swaping the socket, extensions, and universals around till you get the ideal combo, but it worked. you'll need someone else to help you buy turning the bolts from above while you hold them from underneath.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 242
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by Genopsyde
ok, i've done this recently, you need a pickel fork to separate those tie rods from the centerlink.
but i did like some of the other guys and was able to get to the motor mount nuts without removing the a-arms. I had just got all of that back together so there was no way i was gonna take it all back apart. anyway, i used i think a 15mm socket on a universal joint, onto a small extension, onto another universal, onto a longer extension, onto the ratchet. it take patience and finessing and some swaping the socket, extensions, and universals around till you get the ideal combo, but it worked. you'll need someone else to help you buy turning the bolts from above while you hold them from underneath.
ok, i've done this recently, you need a pickel fork to separate those tie rods from the centerlink.
but i did like some of the other guys and was able to get to the motor mount nuts without removing the a-arms. I had just got all of that back together so there was no way i was gonna take it all back apart. anyway, i used i think a 15mm socket on a universal joint, onto a small extension, onto another universal, onto a longer extension, onto the ratchet. it take patience and finessing and some swaping the socket, extensions, and universals around till you get the ideal combo, but it worked. you'll need someone else to help you buy turning the bolts from above while you hold them from underneath.
But my problem right now is as stated in my previous post above. Thanx Last edited by Liquid_Metal; Sep 16, 2005 at 08:37 AM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
Finally!! One new mount in place.... and one to go
Must say this is the single most difficult thing I've done on any car so far. Getting those bolts off is soooooooooo timeconsuming! I was under there the hole day today. Heh! It's good I'm having vacationtime
As you can see in the pic this little procedure requires all the MacGyverisms imaginable. A piece of gum can come in handy when you least expect it
Must say this is the single most difficult thing I've done on any car so far. Getting those bolts off is soooooooooo timeconsuming! I was under there the hole day today. Heh! It's good I'm having vacationtime
As you can see in the pic this little procedure requires all the MacGyverisms imaginable. A piece of gum can come in handy when you least expect it
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 200
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From: Harpersfield, OH
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
ok, i'm sorry i skipped over that post, i was able to get mine because i was removing the entire engine, so the exhaust was removed before i did the mounts.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 242
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From: Finland
Car: Red '89 GTA
Engine: TPI LB9
Transmission: T-5
now they both are in place. But the oilpan where I lifted the engine while swapping mounts got crammed a bit. About one centimeter deep "dent" in the middle of the pan from side to side. Went driving and was checking the oilpressure. Seems fine other than it shifts between like 40 to 55. Haven't really been monitoring it like this before so I'm not sure if it's always done this... but I haven't noticed it moving much before. Is this normal or du I have an oilpan/pump problem?
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