So that I could do the Torx screws that hold down my seats... However, I can not seem to budge them...

Anyone got some idea's?!?!
Yes, I AM using a breaker bar.

And no, I really don't want to call my Dad, brothers or anyone to help me. They're all at work. haha.

Thank ya!

<33

 

Keep Trying....

 

get a bigger bar.... jack handles slip over breaker bars rather easily, leverage is your friend. Just hope you have a good set of torx i've broke probably 5-6 removing seat belts in 3 cars.

 

yea, when it comes to screws it's not the size of your bar that counts, it's the leverage.

....*snicker*

 

oh my *** i had the biggest problem with the seatbelt screws,
I probably broke like 5 or 6 hands trying to get those things to budge.

 

....

I'm not feeling too confident about getting those funkers off...
Oh well. 1 screw broken... 4 more to go. Haha!

 

Just a random question........but why in the world did GM not use regular EASY to remove bolts for this kind of stuff?!?!?!!??!

 

the impact is your friend.....spray some PB blaster down there too for lubrication

 

I went under my car and took off all the junk from the bottom of the bolt. Sprayed WD40 on them. Didnt come off "easy" but alot easier than when I was just trying to get them off straight. Ummm... I dont remember if I did this on my IROC or my Truck.... Maybe I should stick to one project at a time.....

 

I had one tough bolt. I just kept beating the **** out of my ratchet with a hammer and that worked for me.

 

I second on the PB Blaster - that stuff will loosen anything sooner or later. On very stubborn bolts, spray them every day for 3-4 days, then have a crack at it. Leverage is your friend, but patience is mandatory!

 

Another suggestion. Take the torx bit and set it in the bolt, then hammer it in really hard.

First it will help break the bolt loose some, 2nd, it will get more of the torx in to avoid breaking the tips off.


Suprisingly, mine came off with a normal breaker bar

 

And PB Blaster smells WONDERFUL! You know you're a gearhead if PB blaster is on your list of pleasant smells.

 

I WISH GM had used easier bolts...

These Torx bolts are a PIA.

Didn't get them off, so I worked around the little funkers.
Grrrrrr...

Blonde moment -
But... Whats a gearhead?

 

gearhead is someone who works on their own vehicle and enjoys it. Also I replaced all the torx bits with grade 8 hardware store bolts so I don't have to deal with that hell again.

 

GM makes a kick *** rust penetrant too, we use it at work all the time (and this is at a Volvo shop). I forgot the exact name, but its called something like "Rust penetrant and heat valve lubricant" I believe.

 

will they be just as good/strong/safe as those torx bolts if you shiould ever get into a......well, you know. I'd really like to get rid of them if that's possible

 

We use an air ratchet at work... that seems to work pretty easily. When I was taking out my interior I had to use a T47 to remove the posts that hold the seatbacks in locked position and I was able to remove it with a 3/8" socket wrench and some elbow grease

 

just hit the weight room

 

, I had NO probelms with a 1/2 in ratchet. Just make sure you are using the correct tools, I often see people use hex bits instead of the T47 which fits perfect.

 

1/2 in ratchet worked for me... i did go to the gym a lot more then, maybe thats it...

 

spray the crap out of them with penetrator and go to town on with the breaker bar, just be aware you will probably slip and bash your hands a bunch

 

I have yet to have a problem taking out seat bolts... perhaps we should all chip in and buy him a gym membership?

 

im with the PB Blaster, never done seatbelts but it works on everything else so why not. and an impact gun, they work on everything too.

 

if u have a small propain torch try heating the bolt up at the threads. Should make it easier to get loose.

 

If you use heat, heat the nut evenly then try it. Heating the torx bolt will only expand the bolt making it harder to remove. This is why you will want to heat the nut to expand it so that it makes it easier on the torx bolt to be removed. While your down there take a wire brush and clean up the threads of the torx bolt.

You will also want to be careful not to get it too hot. The Carpet and insulation will burn then catch the car on fire.

 

I'm not a guy... I'm a girl.

Plus, I have a gym membership. I prefer to keep my muscle's rather small.... B/c than I won't look like a gearhead!!

Haha!

<33

 

Well, did you ever get the bolts out?
If not what you can do is make sure you are using a T47 with a breaker bar then put a pipe over the breaker bar a longer pipe then the bar probably a few feet long and turn in the correct direction, (righty tighy left loosy) If that doesnt do it call someone and get this job done.

 

Actually, yup, I did get 'em out!! It took ALOT of cursing, a few slips, alot of face falls into my car, but I got 'er done... LoL. I used a Biiiiiiig ol' breaker bar, one I previously used to loosen up the bolts on my shocks (that was FUN!) .... Now I have a nice imprint of my door way on my face... JK! LoL.

<333

Thanks guys for all the advice, but when it got down to it, all I needed was the breaker bar, which is about a 1/4 of my height, and alot of sweat + cursing.

 

Its a safety issue! I am glad they used hard to remove bolts in these cars... especially since these cars rattle and vibrate. I'd just love to be riding down the road and one of the seatbelt bolts or seat bolts pops out..or they come out during an accident...

Just get the right tools and all is well... although I definately know how frustrating that is! Air tools are our friends

 

Hey now. I used a standard 1/4" Allen wrench to get mine out the first time. Don't remember whether I used a hammer or not though. A T47 is a very handy bit, especially with a 3/8"-1/2" adaptor. You put the T47 bit on the adaptor, which goes onto a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, and you can remove the rear seat latch bolts, the hatch strut bolts, the seat belts, and other things.

:edit: BTW, isn't it fun doing all of this grunt work to your car WITHOUT power tools? I have NEVER used an impact wrench on anything except the back wheels when I had to redo my drum shoes in shop class...

 

lol I love that smell now, im so used to it

 

And PB Blaster is the only stuff I ever found that worked on the exhaust manifold studs and bolts , except that they came out of the manifolds.

 

Use a little heat from a propane or mapp torch to melt the loctite the factory uses. Get it good and warm and turn the bolt while it's still hot. If that doesn't work, and it always has for me, warm it up and spray some WD40 (not PB) and let it cool. Once it's cool it will come loose.

 

While we're still on this topic, I've got a bit of a problem myself. The guy that put the junkyard engine in my car decided he HAD to use both an IMPACT WRENCH and LOCTITE on the bolts that hold my torque convertor to the flexplate. Now, ordinarily, this wouldn't be such a problem, except for the fact I have an oil leak at either the rear cam seal or the rear main seal. I know that if I use a propane torch (don't have one right now) or something similar to heat the bolts and melt the locking compound, I'm going to have a serious inferno going . How do I get the auto trans off WITHOUT turning my car into a flaming marshmallow?

I have already tried using a BFH with a big long breaker bar, only to partially strip the head of one of those bolts..

 

Matco MT1769 1/2'' impact gun. 1000ft lbs max breaking torque.

Yeah, with that thing NO bolt or loctite is too strong, if it survives.\

 

If only I had an air compressor...

Can I use degreaser down there without too much trouble? I have a feeling both the engine and trans are coming out at the same time (crankshaft kit wouldn't hurt along with a new RMS) so I'm not too worried about overspray...

 

You can degrease it but I would still use heat to get the bolts out. Heat the nut or threaded part of the flexplate not the bolt itself. The heat will expand the treaded part of the flexplate that the bolt treads into. This is why you don't want to heat the bolt. If that expands it will make it that much harder to remove.

The heat will also melt the loctight and while everything is all hot and ex paned it you should be very very easy to remove.

Hope that helps

 

wait these are on the seatbelts.. mine came out with just a ratchet.. and im 15 years old.. you guys are weak jeeze jk jk jk

 

what about an allen wrench type socket? I used one for the rear seat latch striker. Don't know if they are the same size as the seatbelt bolts or what. I think they make "sockets" like this for ratchets. Just a thought, probably would work better since there isn't any "teeth" to break off and it should still fit fine.

 

You can... but I know I would highly recommend against it. The T47 is a torx bit that you can buy at any local store, this bit can also be used for different model cars and trucks brakes. It was the best $3 I ever spent.
You can also use it on most other torx bolts in our car, it is a common size.

 

Hey, now. Some cars happen to be, to quote a movie, "old and busted".

 

lool im just playin with you guys.. those freakin things are hard to get off.. even on newer cars.. but impact wrench helps

 

That's not a very educated statement. The head of the bolt is not going to determine whether it's going to come loose or not. And truthfully I think corrosion from the underside holds them tighter than the threads after a time.

The problem with torx is the small star pattern makes it very easy to twist the tip of the torx bit, or round out the hole. If they'd used allen heads, or standard hardware, this wouldn't be as big an issue.

I definately think the key is attacking underneath the car. Spray the bottom bigtime with PB and/or heat it from underneath.

Mathius

 

Do a lot of swimming, it builds up muscles without making them bulky.

 

I used a 3/8 ratchet *flexes arms* then after I had the inprint of the ratchet handle in my hand I used the jack handle and my legs lol, yeah and chicks with bulky muscles are sickening, please excuse my slang term for a female (chicks)