window motor
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 616
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From: Ireland
Car: 82 Pontiac Firebird s/e
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: TH200C
window motor
I think my drivers window motor is dead. It has stoped a quarter of an inch from the top and won't move any more. I checked the switch and fuses and they are fine It stopped about two week earlier and I left it and the next day it was working again. Now it won't move at all. Is this the normal way the motors die or do they slow down or become intermittent first. I read the tech articule and it doesn't look that easy to remove it but I will try.... Is it possible to remove the motor with the window up?. Has anyone ever used any of those aftermarket window motors. I see them on ebay for $30. They have a good gaurentee, but not that means anything. Anyone any experience with aftermarket motors?.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 699
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From: Houston TX
Car: 84 Z-28 Camaro, 2022 2500 silverado
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: richmond 3.73, eaton posi
it could just be a loose connector, mine dose that all the time...all I have to do is kick the bottem foreward part of the door and it starts working again
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 420
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From: In Hoxie Arkansas Posts: 12,547
Car: 91 firebird
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
The motors in my doors slowed down first, and in the end it was like, they would stop then work then stop.
I bought motors from AutoZone. They work, but are not as fast as the GMs.
The first motor I changed was with the window all the way up. I cussed and complained and it took a long time, but after doing one, the next one was easy. I have changed the motors out on other vehicles since and once you learn how it is not bad.
I bought motors from AutoZone. They work, but are not as fast as the GMs.
The first motor I changed was with the window all the way up. I cussed and complained and it took a long time, but after doing one, the next one was easy. I have changed the motors out on other vehicles since and once you learn how it is not bad.
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
check the switch first, it'd easiest.
then put in new brushes. The motor itself basically does not wear out, so don't waste your time replacing the whole thing, the brushes are easier, and will cure it. also relube all moving parts.
then put in new brushes. The motor itself basically does not wear out, so don't waste your time replacing the whole thing, the brushes are easier, and will cure it. also relube all moving parts.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Quincy, Illinois
Car: '82 trans am (w/ t-top)
Engine: 5.0L 305 H
Transmission: automatic
the brushes r bad! until u get it replaced, a quick fix is openning the door and giving it a good slam, as simple as that sounds...IT WORKS! it has saved me from many a rain fall! lol
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 616
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From: Ireland
Car: 82 Pontiac Firebird s/e
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: TH200C
I have checked the switch and fuse already, swapped it with the passenger side and it works fine. I will try slamming the door and see if that will keep it working for another little while. But the motor has to come out eventually.
I have done a search on replacing the motor and I see a guy has drilled holes in the door in line with where the motor rivets are and then drilled out the rivets so the motor just drops out. A lot of people don't agree with that but it sounds easier that trying to take out the whole assembly.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=window+motors
I have done a search on replacing the motor and I see a guy has drilled holes in the door in line with where the motor rivets are and then drilled out the rivets so the motor just drops out. A lot of people don't agree with that but it sounds easier that trying to take out the whole assembly.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=window+motors
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
yea, that's what I did on my drivers side. No big deal, look carefully and you won't be drilling it like swiss cheese.
Then on my passenger side, I realized that MOTORS DON'T GO BAD! seriously! it's a waste of time. I just swapped in the brushes and end cap, from the back left of an '83 caprice sedan from the wreckers (looked mint.) re-lubed with lithium grease, and they both work like a charm.
the window down makes it easiest to remove the door panel (I can't do it with the window up, or i'll crack the top of the door panel, ahem, twice...).
Then on my passenger side, I realized that MOTORS DON'T GO BAD! seriously! it's a waste of time. I just swapped in the brushes and end cap, from the back left of an '83 caprice sedan from the wreckers (looked mint.) re-lubed with lithium grease, and they both work like a charm.
the window down makes it easiest to remove the door panel (I can't do it with the window up, or i'll crack the top of the door panel, ahem, twice...).
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 616
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From: Ireland
Car: 82 Pontiac Firebird s/e
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: TH200C
Thanks Sonix, I will probably go with this idea. One question, what about the spring on the window regulator. Is there any danger of that flying off if the motor is removed. I know the window needs to be supported when the motor is off.
I will replace the motor as I live in Ireland and It is easier for me to order a motor than brushes. No thirdgen parts here!
I will replace the motor as I live in Ireland and It is easier for me to order a motor than brushes. No thirdgen parts here!
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
oh ok gholian, didn't notice that....
I didn't have to support anything, I removed the motor (drilling those extra holes as was mentioned in that link), and nothing moved.... When you bolt everything back in, you need small hands, it's pretty tight. I think you need 1/4-20 x 1/2" bolts, and I used nylock nuts. Locktite is a good idea too, the vibration that hits these are brutal.
I just grabbed the end cap with brushes from a caprice, since they were basically new.
But I wanted to get new ones, so I looked high and low, and found a single auto electrics shop that sold me some carbon brushes that fit, for $2. I have the part #, and can probably find a brand, so that it can be cross refenced, and purchased outside of this one store. I can check for the P/N when i'm at home if desired. I used the caprice ones, because I broke the carbon brushes I bought.... ooops. The ones from my car, and the caprice were copper brushes, so I figured it'd be better to use factory copper ones, rather then carbon brushes. (oh yea, I even contacted AC delco, and they couldn't help me.) I think i'll eventually contact a power window motor rebuilder, and find out how to buy power window motor brushes from them...
I didn't have to support anything, I removed the motor (drilling those extra holes as was mentioned in that link), and nothing moved.... When you bolt everything back in, you need small hands, it's pretty tight. I think you need 1/4-20 x 1/2" bolts, and I used nylock nuts. Locktite is a good idea too, the vibration that hits these are brutal.
I just grabbed the end cap with brushes from a caprice, since they were basically new.
But I wanted to get new ones, so I looked high and low, and found a single auto electrics shop that sold me some carbon brushes that fit, for $2. I have the part #, and can probably find a brand, so that it can be cross refenced, and purchased outside of this one store. I can check for the P/N when i'm at home if desired. I used the caprice ones, because I broke the carbon brushes I bought.... ooops. The ones from my car, and the caprice were copper brushes, so I figured it'd be better to use factory copper ones, rather then carbon brushes. (oh yea, I even contacted AC delco, and they couldn't help me.) I think i'll eventually contact a power window motor rebuilder, and find out how to buy power window motor brushes from them...
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: Quincy, Illinois
Car: '82 trans am (w/ t-top)
Engine: 5.0L 305 H
Transmission: automatic
Originally posted by gholian
I have checked the switch and fuse already, swapped it with the passenger side and it works fine. I will try slamming the door and see if that will keep it working for another little while. But the motor has to come out eventually.
I have done a search on replacing the motor and I see a guy has drilled holes in the door in line with where the motor rivets are and then drilled out the rivets so the motor just drops out. A lot of people don't agree with that but it sounds easier that trying to take out the whole assembly.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=window+motors
I have checked the switch and fuse already, swapped it with the passenger side and it works fine. I will try slamming the door and see if that will keep it working for another little while. But the motor has to come out eventually.
I have done a search on replacing the motor and I see a guy has drilled holes in the door in line with where the motor rivets are and then drilled out the rivets so the motor just drops out. A lot of people don't agree with that but it sounds easier that trying to take out the whole assembly.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=window+motors
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