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Failed inspection...Help

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Old 06-30-2006, 08:19 PM
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Failed inspection...Help

I went to get inspected today and they told me that they didnt want to even drive it. He said when he got in the car he knowticed that the stereing column moves down and goes back up to its original place, at the bend. I never thought anything of it till today. He also said that he could only get the high beams to work when he pulled it down.
Has anyone had this happened? If so, do I have to get it repaired or is it fixable out of the shop? Thanks
Old 06-30-2006, 09:06 PM
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Honestly its easier to swap the column rather than go inside of it.
Old 07-01-2006, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by grimmcs
I went to get inspected today and they told me that they didnt want to even drive it. He said when he got in the car he knowticed that the stereing column moves down and goes back up to its original place, at the bend. I never thought anything of it till today. He also said that he could only get the high beams to work when he pulled it down.
Has anyone had this happened? If so, do I have to get it repaired or is it fixable out of the shop? Thanks
I have the same prob with my high/low beams when the wheel is tilted all of the way down -- I have to tilt it back up one or two notches to change from high back to low. But at any tilt I can go to high. Someone told me once that there is something at the bottom of the column? or wheel? or tilt? that I need to adjust for my High/Low beams. But since you have more than one problem -- either replace the whole thing (junkyard) or take it apart and fix it. It is honestly NOT THAT HARD. Just hit up your Chilton/Haynes manual(s).

-- ScottieB
Old 07-01-2006, 08:25 AM
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i agree, just get a whole new column, you will thank yourself in the end

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Old 07-02-2006, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottieB
I have the same prob with my high/low beams when the wheel is tilted all of the way down -- I have to tilt it back up one or two notches to change from high back to low. But at any tilt I can go to high.

-- ScottieB
Actually when my wheel is locked in any position there is still movement. My high beams dont work until I pull down on the steering wheel. It will move down when you pull down on it and then move back up when you let it go. This all happenes when it is locked in a tilt position.
The guy said that there is a nut that holds it in place and it sounds like it is loose. I have no idea what hes talking about.
Old 07-02-2006, 01:30 PM
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Car: 89 IROC Z28
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I live an CA and except for smog we have no inspection. What all is envolved with your inspections and how often do they happen?

Just curious.

Thanks
Old 07-02-2006, 02:27 PM
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I found the actual law...


(1) Check steering column and reject if one or more of the following apply:
(i) Freeplay exceeds the following allowances:
Wheel diameter Freeplay
16 inches or less 2 inches
18 inches 2 1/4 inches
20 inches 2 1/2 inches
22 inches 2 3/4 inches
(ii) The gear box is loose on the frame.
(iii) The energy-absorbing column is defective.
(iv) The steering wheel, except if specially designed for handicapped drivers, is not circular or equivalent in strength to original equipment or has an outside diameter less than 13 inches.
(v) The front wheels cannot be turned to the full right or left position without binding or interference.
(vi) The flexible steering coupler—rag joint—is badly misaligned—twisted or out of alignment between attaching collars.
(vii) The number of turns of the steering wheel from a straight ahead tire position to the right stop is not equal to the number of turns to the left stop within a tolerance of 1/4 turn.


...I see nothing that applys to my problem. But than again I dont know whats wrong. I think that is it someone stretching the freeplay allowance. Im going to take it somewhere else and see if they let it slide.
But if anyone has had this happen and might know how to fix it, please let me know. And where I live we have an inspection once a year. And where I live there are no emission inspections.

Last edited by grimmcs; 07-02-2006 at 02:31 PM.
Old 07-02-2006, 02:32 PM
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You could always rewire the hi/low beam switch and mount the old school step on switch on the floor
Old 07-02-2006, 02:37 PM
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sounds like

they gigged you on the freeplay,i also have the high beam problem,will go into highs no problem,just won't come out of highs,unless column moved up in my case,will eventually get after the arm to switch connection,my understanding is a plastic clip holds it and breaks??,the wheel on my IROC had all kinds of play in it,side to side and up/dowm,we pulled the wheel of and tightened a couple of things,and took most of play out,not all,but enuf??
Old 07-02-2006, 02:39 PM
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Well he said that it was the actual movement in the steering column that caused it to fail. So if I can fix that it will probubly fix the high beams. And there really is no point in rewireing the lights if its just going to fail again.
Plus the guy before me did the floor thing and ripped it out and now I have a small rust hole. I dont feel like adding to it.
Old 07-02-2006, 02:43 PM
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Its a EASY FIX for your hi/low beans. There's a rod that slides back and forth when you click your lever. The button on the column has 1 or 2 screws on it I forget. Drop the panel and remove 2 nuts that hold your column up. When you drop the column you can see the slider rod and button on the left hand side of the column. Just adjust the switch so your lever works normal.(loosen it and pull it towards the wheel a little)

THIS SHOULD WORK FINE. Just did this on a buddys car. He called me telling me the same thing you just posted. So this should take care of your hi/low problem.

how much Play your wheel has is another issue which would e easier to just swap columns as said above. Id fix the hi/low problem and see if a diff shop will pass it with a little play.
Old 07-02-2006, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by hwcoll95
the wheel on my IROC had all kinds of play in it,side to side and up/dowm,we pulled the wheel of and tightened a couple of things,and took most of play out,not all,but enuf??
Hey hwcoll95, what all did that involve? I assume I would need to get tools for the steering wheel removal. Im just not really into paying someone $400 to fix something that I could do. Thanks for any info.
Old 07-02-2006, 09:42 PM
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i had a friend of mine have his 91 RS fail PA inspection for the same problem, not sure what he did to fix it, but i think there is a write up here on how to fix it.
Old 07-02-2006, 10:02 PM
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tilt column.. need to disassemble and tighten down the 4 torqs bolts at the tilt mechanism.. they all have this problem.. use loctite to stop the problem from reoccuring
Old 07-03-2006, 12:13 AM
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Thanks for all the info. Not knowing the problem or where is was I didnt really know where to start. I found the tech write up. I will start there and we'll see if it fixes it. If anyone else knows anything else or has any tips, let me know. Thanks again.
Old 07-03-2006, 06:59 PM
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you can get the parts to fix it from the dealership for $50....this includes new bearings and the plastic part for the hi low beams.......take a look at the teck article it will help alot....also if you can rent one get the pivit pin puller....yes you can make one,but the right one does so much better.I use the locktite that is for assembled items so I didn't have to remove the bolts for the tilt that come loose....hope that helped...good luck,
Mike
Old 07-03-2006, 09:19 PM
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My old car did the same thing, this is a very common problem if it's what I'm thinking of. There should be a step by step diagram, its 6 torx bits deep inside the column. Once tightened everything should feel like new and the high beam switch will work again. It takes about 2 hours of patience and a steering wheel puller as well as some spring plate compactor (both can be rented at autozone for free).
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