fisherbody86

Here's my situation. Quarter panels have some surface rust, so I want to sand it down, fill it, and spray some new paint on it. I'm a mechanic, and I have a little expierence spraying paint, so I'm not affraid of operation a paint gun. But I'm no body guy, and I don't know the ins and outs of body work.

I've heard you can't blend clearcoat and have to reshoot the whole panel. Why? What happens if you try to blend clear? Will it really stand out, or what? I don't feel like resparying both quarter panels and roof section because I'm blending a little color around the wheelwells, that seems excessive, not to mention expensive.

Also, I've seen Duplicolor sells whats called "automotive primer" in a spray can. Can I use that, then spray a dual stage over it, or will the rattle can primer not work with the professional paint.

Please help me out, I fear that my rust might turn to rot holes if I don't do something soon. Thanks in advance.

KEVIN G.

You "CAN" blend clear...Would I recommend it? NO especially on my own vehicle.
What we do in the business is go to the smallest area of the panel. Which, here, would be the sail panel. BUT, we have all seen the thirdgens with the chalked out area in the sail panel. This is a paint failure. Usually where someone attempted a blend. Things you need to consider are, colormatch, continuity of the panel, and longevity.
Now, are the paints of today better and the blending agents more evolved than in the past? Sure, but really, you're buying clear, sandpaper, tape and paper, and it is very easy on these cars to go up and around and down the other side.
What you are attempting, I believe, is spot repair. Not something I'd advocate, but if funds are low, and you want to save up for a paintjob, and you can make it look decent, blast away.
What color is the car, by the way, (that will probably make your decision for you.)
Garbage in, garbage out. Don't use it.
Hope this helps.

Ironmahn

Don't use the spray can primer, problems with adhesion and other can occur. As far as the repair... get the correct color for the car and sand at least a quarter on an inch out around the desired area of repair just sanding into not though the clear coat. Just remember that paint and clear coat sink as they dry. Best result is to let dry a day between layers (shrinkage). When it comes time to clear just build it up till it matches the original level of clear on the cars. If you do at least the quarter on inch out into the good area the clear should match up pretty good. Good luck...

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Some spraycan primers are adequate... SEM comes to mind. However, that doesn't mean that the duplicolor stuff is any good.

8492bird

Rustoleum also sells a sandable automotive primer in a spray. Blast away guys but I've had pretty good results with it.

shaggy56

Heres a really good article on spot repair with illustrations. bookmark it. Its an advert but the technique still applys. The key is to not cheap out on any of the materials. Get quality like 3M or what have you.

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KEVIN G.

That's a great walkthrough for blending....Some great information there, And I'm sure it was just for tutorial reasons, but the same question holds. If it's your car, and you're right there, and you have the materials, and you have 10 more minutes...to prep...why not take it all the way up and over. It will make a nicer job, and you may catch some other issues you wanted to take care of anyways.

fisherbody86

The car is WA 8774 Bright Red. The paint is origional, but still looks really good for 14 year old paint. I just wish I could say the same for the sheet metal too. It has the typical amount of dents and dings associated with a 14 year old car, and now there is some rust setting in. Here are some pics of the problem areas.

Kevin G, you seem pretty knowledgeable about body and paint work, what would you do if you were on a limited budget?

KEVIN G.

Well, If you were to spot repair it you've got the perfect setup. The break should be at the body line/body side molding area... With the exception of that area around the gas door. (But it can still be done.)
I would definitely go after it now, and then when you can afford a complete paintjob, you're golden.
Now, one problem does arise that I see...The late eighties and early 90's reds used to actually fade under the clearcoats. (Ever see an 88 Chevy pickup that has had body work on a certain panel or panels? The old paint looks purple in comparison to the new "red". Old clears weren't developed far enough, and didn't have sufficient UV screeners in them.)
SO, no matter what you do, you will see a color shift with hte new red. How much of a color shift will depend on how much the car was garaged...