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upper hinge removal question

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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:37 PM
  #1  
sogabe's Avatar
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From: NorCal
Car: 91 Camaro RS(RealSlow)
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: unknown/mostlikelycrappy
upper hinge removal question

Ive been thinking of doing this thing for long time now.

ive been saving up to buy air compressor caz I thought I had to grind off the
upper pins.
but I was thinking to myself.. could it be done by punch and chisel or something?

is it possible that way?
any advice is appreciated.

and when u have power window.. the black boot has wires inside so I shouldnt put the door and body apart too far or its gonna rip the wire right..?

if anybody know, let me know plz.. again.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #2  
82 Iron Duke's Avatar
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Car: 04 Silverado
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: auto
Originally Posted by sogabe
Ive been thinking of doing this thing for long time now.

ive been saving up to buy air compressor caz I thought I had to grind off the
upper pins.
but I was thinking to myself.. could it be done by punch and chisel or something?

is it possible that way?
any advice is appreciated.

and when u have power window.. the black boot has wires inside so I shouldnt put the door and body apart too far or its gonna rip the wire right..?

if anybody know, let me know plz.. again.
Happy reading, a search always helps!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/sear...earchid=315964
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:50 PM
  #3  
lonsal's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Nope to the punch and chisel method. You don't need an air compressor though. You can use Dremel tool. You'd use either a stack of fiber-reinforced cutoff blades on a mandrel or an abrasive grinding stone mounted on a mandrel in the Dremel tool. I actually prefer the Black and Decker brand RTX rotary tool over the Dremel brand.

Lon
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 06:52 PM
  #4  
82 Iron Duke's Avatar
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Car: 04 Silverado
Engine: 4.8
Transmission: auto
Originally Posted by lonsal
Nope to the punch and chisel method. You don't need an air compressor though. You can use Dremel tool. You'd use either a stack of fiber-reinforced cutoff blades on a mandrel or an abrasive grinding stone mounted on a mandrel in the Dremel tool. I actually prefer the Black and Decker brand RTX rotary tool over the Dremel brand.

Lon
The master has spoken
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 07:35 PM
  #5  
Dizturbed One's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 992
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From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
Originally Posted by lonsal
Nope to the punch and chisel method. You don't need an air compressor though. You can use Dremel tool. You'd use either a stack of fiber-reinforced cutoff blades on a mandrel or an abrasive grinding stone mounted on a mandrel in the Dremel tool. I actually prefer the Black and Decker brand RTX rotary tool over the Dremel brand.

Lon
damn straight. my RTX walks all over my old Dremel in almost anything. Quieter, stronger, doesn't get as hot, better snake extension, the list goes on.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 10:48 PM
  #6  
lonsal's Avatar
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
You forgot to mention the five year replacement warranty. I smoked one after a little over a year and replaced it under warranty. I was probably SUPPOSED to send it back to B&D for repair/replacement, but instead I returned it with my receipt at Home Depot. I got my original purchase price back. When I bought the new one I discovered t my pleasant surprise that the new one was $10 cheaper (the carrying case for it got cheaper as if I care about that). So basically I used one for free for a year and got the $10 back for my trouble.

Lon
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 07:15 PM
  #7  
raptor80dad's Avatar
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From: So.MD
Car: 92rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: 350
Axle/Gears: 3.73/Moser 12bolt
dang just bought the Dremel kit .

anyway mine came with a disc about 1/8" thick x 1 1/4 -1 1/2 wide red clay colored and ground both upper pins + cut the lower pin in 3 pieces w/2 discs.took about 2 hours with 2 people.
BTW this was done with the fenders off by 2 nwbs.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:27 PM
  #8  
sogabe's Avatar
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 514
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From: NorCal
Car: 91 Camaro RS(RealSlow)
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: unknown/mostlikelycrappy
do u need the fender off?
i was thinking of taking the door off then replacing it.

my second question was.. what happens to the black boot that connects the power window wire(etc) if i take the door off?
is it like a socket that snaps off inside? or is it bunch of raw wires that I should be aware not to rip them?

thanks for the tool feedback guys,
i will get an air compressor instead caz I feel it'll come in handy for other upgrade i wanna do.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:34 PM
  #9  
raptor80dad's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2006
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From: So.MD
Car: 92rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: 350
Axle/Gears: 3.73/Moser 12bolt
fenders dont have to come off mine just were.
the boot is full of wires on power window car so it wont move but so far
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:45 PM
  #10  
sogabe's Avatar
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 514
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From: NorCal
Car: 91 Camaro RS(RealSlow)
Engine: 3.1L
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: unknown/mostlikelycrappy
thanks, that means I have to really watch out not to let the door drop caz
it might rip the wire and thats a big PITA lol..
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 07:52 PM
  #11  
raptor80dad's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 348
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From: So.MD
Car: 92rs
Engine: 350
Transmission: 350
Axle/Gears: 3.73/Moser 12bolt
put a jack under it with some kind od padding under the door so not to scratch the door and have someone hold the door from falling over .
the 1st time i did it took all day w/ 2 people but hinges were so bad had to add bushings to pin kit which took a trip to the hardware store .still very tedious work.good luck
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