Very few things in life give off better feelings then when you're almost done making a project car street-legal, and when checking up on the rear brakes, you find a headless lugnut..

Can anyone help with this one? I'm wondering what the cheapest, easiest way to take this guy off.

 

that's a "safety lug" or locking lugnut, it keeps someone from stealing your wheels, check around your local Napa, Autozone, etc. & see if they have the tool to take it off.

 

hmm, that makes sense.

Is there anyway that I can see which tool exactly I'll need, besides having to take the car up there? Such as sizing or shape.

Thanks

 

That`s a wheel lock you have there. Soak the lock as best you can with liquid wrench or wd40. The best way I found to remove them without a key is to find an old junk socket slightly smaller than the lock and pound it on over the lock. Use a breaker bar or impact wrench to remove the old lock. Another option is to stop by some old established tire shops, they usually have buckets full of old keys that sometimes match-up to your lock. Good luck,Jim.
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That`s a wheel lock you have there. Soak the lock as best you can with liquid wrench or wd40. The best way I found to remove them without a key is to find an old junk socket slightly smaller than the lock and pound it on over the lock. Use a breaker bar or impact wrench to remove the old lock. Another option is to stop by some old established tire shops, they usually have buckets full of old keys that sometimes match-up to your lock. Good luck,Jim.

 

Ya.. I'm screwed on this deal. I might have to go with the ol' smaller socket slamming treatment. Do you think a 12 point socket is the way to go?

Also, I doubt there's any hope of finding the matching key.. this car has been sitting for 10 years. Given it might be easier to take off because it's rusty, i doubt I'll be able to find a key. Oh well. I'll see what I CAN do. Thanks again.

 

They are pretty easy to get off. Ya normally ill use a 1/2" drive socket, 12 pt. Just beat it on there good and get it at it with the breaker bar.

 

untill it rounds it off...

good luck. i would suggest trying to find the correct lock nut key.

 

using that method should be a last resort.

have you looked around inside the car for the key?, check the glove box, the rear storage box & the spare tire area, if one of your friends has them on his car ask to borrow his tool, it might fit.

 

Some darn good ideas there. I should have said that the "beat it to death " method is the last resort. I can say it has never let me down but there is always a first time. Also, check everywhere possible for the key, it could be stuck or wedged under the seat or somewhere else in the car. As far as using a 12 point socket, I never paid attention to the socket I used, just the fit on the lock and I used 1/2" drive minimum. I have run across old tire shops with 5 gallon buckets full of old keys but that takes a lot of time and usually it is wasted.

 

i found a universal off ebay. its a impact socket that is tappered inside you smack it on just like a smaller socket would do. search for wheel lock remover. most tire shops do have the kit to remove them as well.

jeff

 

i used to work at Firestone, we had a kit like that and it worked. i dont know if it will work without an impact gun, ive never tried that

 

hmm... So you said places like Firestone and the sort might be able to fix it? About how much would that cost? I'd try to give it a go w/ a 1/2" 12 pt socket, but the only problem is they are kinda thick. And currently, either I take my dad's truck (hate that thing) to Autozone and look for a socket, or I can wait a bit longer and bring it up to a shop that he works at on the golfcourse to cut it off. But if I can pay to have it off, and it's not too much, I can always try giving that way a try.

 

Those were on my car when I bought it, and of course I didn't get a key either.

I took it to my local Big O tires and they removed it, it cost 29.95 for every two wheels, they informed me the cost is mainly the kit to take it off, since it's a single use tool.

So I'd say it costs about 60 dollars

 

here's the thing.. whoever last had the car was retarded.. and I guess had just wanted to make sure that that ONE wheel was not going anywhere, as it was the only one messed up.

And as an update.. I've tried about everything imaginable. For starts, I did the socket hammering thing mentioned above.. but to no avail. It just couldn't fit, and hammering it in had made too much of a curve in vs a sharp cut in. Then I tried getting a grinder and flattening out the edges to use a vice grip on. Eh eh.. it was on VERY strong. I mean, I'm a big guy, and sweating trying to get that thing as tight as possible, just still slipped too much for it, and it couldn't grip. Then I dried sawing a slanted cut down it, so I could get a sturdy chisel and hammer down at an angle that it would loosen it. I tried that twice, and both times the lugnut had just chipped off the piece I was hammering on.

I only see two options left now. I'm thinking drill two holes on opposite sides in it nice and snug, then sticking pieces of metal in the holes and twisting it from there. If that is a no-go, then I have a question for everyone else. Those five lugs... are those replaceable, and if so, at what cost? This is the rear tires, so it's accompanied by a drum. I'm thinking the only hope I'd have is to saw it off and replace it. Anyone have an opinion here?

 

The place where I work at we have sockets that have half circles instead of the points inside the socket. Meant for taking out stripped nuts and bolts and such. Have you tried one of those yet?

 

I have tried a few irregular-shaped ones that are meant for stripped shoes.. not a semi-circle, but a few others and they just can't hold on to the nut with enough strength.

 

Weld a nut to the star shapped lug nut, then use a ratchet.

 

X2... Beat me to it.

Autozone used to sell a "stripped lug nut" removal tool. But it was 100% match to firestone's locking lug removal tool. Just a special tapered socket.

Anyway, I think they stopped selling those for obvious reasons. Might as well sell jimmies while they are at it.

Do the welded nut thing...thats sure to work.

Justin

 

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Can also melt it off with a torch. I've seen it done in my Auto Shop class.

 

That's going to certainly damage his rim.

 

YES the wheel studs are replaceable. so you can drill through that mother and then take the wheel off. then you will need to crack open the rearend and remove the axle shaft. (not as hard as it sounds). take the axleshaft to a machine shoppe and they can press in a new stud for you. failing that you could go to a yard and get another axle shaft. if you do, try and get one from the same side. and be sure to bring the old one with you for comparison, GM used 26 and 28 spline axles, both will be different sizes around and are NOT compatible, GM also used 9 and 10 bolt rear ends. both have different methods of locking the axles in place, and they are not compatible.

 

what size socket did you try?

1/2" DRIVE either 18MM or 11/16" 12 pt. Beat it on there nice and straight. Make sure you beat it on there good then take a 1/2 breaker bar and give it a good tug to the left...

If you already tried that method then honestly take it to almost any gas station.

I used to do it all the time when i worked at a shop. Of course we just used an air hammer into the side of it and drove it out that way. But i have never not had luck with a smaller socket beat on.

If the key is not in the car, your not gonna find it so id give up trying to find the correct key.