I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I want to put the whole Percy Speedglass is weak to rest so...

I just received this e-mail from a Percy Sales Manager:

-----Original Message-----
From: eagle7seven@adelphia.net [eagle7seven@adelphia.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 2:54 PM
To: Aaron Faulconer
Subject: Speedglass Durability

Hi, my names Chris, AKA "I H8 WWD" from www.THIRDGEN.org and have been
having debate problems with your product as the subject. We keep getting
those putting your product down saying if you use wipers it'll scratch,
if you use a finer wool it wont scratch it, it a rock hits it it will
brake and shatter the lexan.

We would like if possible to have a video made per YOU, showing that
your speedglass can be scratched with wool and not be damaged, also as
you state it is shatterproof and we would like a demo of that too. Let
me know and Ill definitely post the video up....

P.S. I really want people to understand you wouldnt lie about your
product....that and if this video or OTHER proof can be shown you will
hit alot of sales just through TGO.

Thanks for your time and await a response

-Chris AKA I H8 WWD

Date: Friday, June 1, 2007 5:00 PM
From: Aaron Faulconer aaron.faulconer@percyshp.com
To: eagle7seven@adelphia.net
Subject: RE: Speedglass Durability
Size: 2 KB

How about I send a Speedglass piece to play with? That way you won't be skeptical.

Thank you,

Aaron Faulconer
Warehouse Distribution Sales Manager
Percy's High Performance
450 Business Park Rd.
Linn Creek, MO 65052
573-346-4409 Ex. 15
573-346-4948 Fax
www.percyshp.com

When I get the piece I VIDEO CLIP it showing steel wool rubbing, rocks hitting it, wiper blade being ran across it, also dropped from a height to see if it breaks at all.

CrazyBear

sounds cool. Guy must know his product well considering he's just sending you a piece to play with.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Yeah. Should be here by the end of the week. Ill keep this updated.

Im going to make a video out of all the experiments I do on it.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

I love videos of trying to destroy stuff. I'm in for a video

@ZZKKER

iTrader: (1)

lots of guys around here run the speed glass on their 1/8th mile outlaw cars and drive on them on the street as well and i have not herd of any complaints. old worn out rock hard wiper blades are what tears lexan glass up, so as long as they are kept in good shape you have no problems with it.

thanks
anthony

FAST RS

I thought of purchasing this for my 68 bird since it needs a new windshield. What if any benefits would I expect between lexan and glass?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

lighter weight

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

You'll lose UP TO 77lbs replacing all windows including front and rear windshields.

Also better visual during rain because of the coating rain flies right off. If anyone wanted to break your window for some reason (Ex girlfriend) it WONT break at all.

Thestriped1

do you have the video yet im really interested in this since im in the process of acquiring a 74 firebird and id rather change the windows than pull off the purpley tint

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

No, but am expecting the piece soon.....I hope.

92RS(real slow)

sweet keep us updated

camarobeast84

iTrader: (1)

Please don't let this thread die. I too will soon be replacing a windshield in my camaro and have been considering speedglass for a long time.

plumminfool

I need a windshield too. Post the vid please!

Feniks9174

Nothing yet?

I'm looking to replace the glass in my Z28 with something lighter, but it needs to be strong.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Im @ work right now but will post video l8er.

Thoughts for now are:

Windshield: I would say stick with glass, as this doesnt seem as a good enough (strong enough) piece of material to withstand highway garbage flying at the window. But if your a cruiser and dont get behind many trucks or vans or anything I would say go for it. Bascially glass DOES have a higher scratch resistant than these windows so its harder for scratches to come by and might end up being very heavily if replaced with this type window as I cannot test this on highway until I actually get the window and by theory think if the windshield is replaced with speedglass, you might see more scratches than usual.

Side windows: AWESOME, Just use soft cloth to clean windows. I am getting mine tinted as soon as I get them. They come in a clear film in which I am keeping on the window until I get them tinted (probably the same day) so this way it ensures clean window and the most protectant I can get, just in case.

Rear window: AWESOME AS WELL. Possibly get it filmed or tinted as well.

OVERALL: These do protect from scratches. But not from higher speed scratches like being on the highway and a rock or pebble hitting the window. I AM NOT SURE ON SHATTERPROOF AS I WASNT GIVEN A PIECE BIG ENOUGH TO TEST THAT WITH. Sorry.

Vid to come soon...

tamatt27

So do you have pics of the lexan pieces? What is the weight vs the glass pieces?

camarobeast84

iTrader: (1)

I'd still like more info, as I'm very interested in these replacements. I'd like to be able to use the front windshield (not daily driven, but definately some).

Also, I'd like to know the weight difference between the stock door glass and these pieces.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Replacing the windows with their lexans at I think its 1/4" thickness you lose 70lbs. Thats replacing front, rear and side windows.

Maybe when I get the extra $1500 to do windows (after I get my Fiberglass doors) I will buy their thickest set all around.

These lexans are definitely stronger and more scratch resistant than most other lexans, but I am NOT sure if these will hold up to daily driving and conditions all depending...as my car is summer, clear skies only.

I can NO LONGER post the vid. I made the video with my last piece of sample and it ended up not showing anything, meaning in the video you couldnt see the scratches in the before and after....so that didnt work out to the best.

But I can say these take a nice little rub to be scratched with steel wool compared to not coated lexan.

I WILL be picking these up in the future...but like I said and will say again, I AM UNSURE HOW THESE WILL HOLD UP TO EVERYDAY CONDITIONS, such as winter, rolling window up and down, wiping windows off after a wash...fingerprints...cleaning chemicals.

soultron

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that's something I never thought of... lighter glass.
I'm a moron.

ryan91rs

iTrader: (1)

summit racing sells a whole kit for around 450 bucks. i might do the sides and front but i want my defogger for the back.

i wonder if it's legal though? i'm sure it is. and for shatter proof, ever hit a snack machine before, it's the same stuff and tough as nails!

Feniks9174

Are we looking at the same stuff? The Percy's Speedglass on Summit that I'm seeing is $350 for just the rear window in 1/8".

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Im sure if they can get that they can get the 1/4" all around.

Hmm, might have to call Summit and ask.

emory 4-4-2

sounds good, but if i am correct, the windows are unformed, flat panels. forming thar rear hatch could be quite a pita

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

TECHNICAL DATA

SPEEDGLASS is a new material manufactured by Percy’s High Performance, Inc. for Racing, Off Road, Aerospace, and other leading edge, High Performance applications. SPEEDGLASS is composed of GE’s LEXAN polycarbonate, proprietarily thermoformed and hard coated to give outstanding scratch and abrasion resistance. Therefore, SPEEDGLASS is unbreakable as well as capable of retaining excellent optical clarity even in the worst environments. Percy’s is capable of manufacturing SPEEDGLASS for virtually any window application. Please call for any technical questions or application assistance.

• SPEEDGLASS is 50% - 75% lighter than glass (depending on thickness).
• SPEEDGLASS is extremely shatterproof.
• SPEEDGLASS has excellent optical clarity.
• SPEEDGLASS windshields and windows are coated on both sides with a very scratch resistant coating.
• OEM windshields and windows are formed to factory curvature.
• OEM windows are approximately 5/8” oversized in all directions.

----------
More good information:

Speedglass Common Problems and Solutions

Q: “My Blackout Paint will not stick to the Speedglass.”

A: After masking off the blackout area. The installer must sand through the hard coating right to the edge of the masking. Great care should be taken when sanding near the edge of the masking. Blackout paint can then be applied to the sanded area.

Q. “How do I cut Speedglass?”

A. Speedglass cuts just like very soft metal. It will not crack or break. It is best to do rough trimming with a band saw or jig saw with a bi-metal or medium blade. Final fitting can be done with orbital sander or grinder.

Q. “Can I use my factory molding with Speedglass?”

A. This greatly depends on the application. We do not recommend using the factory molding but in many cases it can be done. Speedglass must be fastened in. In some cases it can be glued into place.

Q. “Can I use urethane to glue my window into place?”

A. Yes. We recommend fastening the window in with fasteners in any racing application. However, urethane can be used if the proper procedures are taken. After removal of the old window, the original bead of urethane must be trimmed down to 1/16” or less. The Speedglass should be sanded down through the coating to the bare Lexan. If you do not sand through the coating the urethane will not adhere to the window. It is up to the installer to determine the type of urethane he wants to use.
Percy’s High Performance makes no statements as to the performance of the installation method. No warranty is expressed or implied.

Q. “Can I tint Speedglass?”

A. Yes. Speedglass can be tinted with any regular polyester window tint film. Make sure and clean the Speedglass surface very well. Do not scrap on the window with any metal objects as it will scratch the window.

Q. “Can I use Speedglass in my factory side window regulators as a functional side window?”

A. We do not recommend making Speedglass side windows functional. However, molded Speedglass sides have proven very functional in many applications. Percy’s does not guarantee each side window application to install like the factory glass. Adaptors or brackets may have to be fabricated. If Speedglass sides are to be used functionally the user should make sure the wiper seals are very clean and free of dust and debris.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

Still waiting on that video

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I remember lifting and moving the rear hatch, it was a BEAR! Since I don't drive in the winter, I could see this being a good addon for the rear. 1/4" thick should be fine to support it's own weight. I'd probably just get a sheet, then use a heat gun to try to form it to the rear glass, then it'll just bolt in place as normal. Maybe glue (urethane?) to secure the black metal strips on the sides.
Then again, if you only replace the rear hatch you're removing weight from above the rear wheels only so...

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I posted about not being able to do it, the video ended up not showing any scratches so it really didnt work out. But its tough stuff.

But I did find this information out about Summit Dealing.

For 1/4" on Driver/Passenger and Rear Hatch (Thickest they sell is 1/4")


Summit Hatch: $490 shipped to your door
Percy Hatch: $520 not shipped

Summit Driver/Passenger: SUMMIT SENT PRICE REQUEST FOR ME TO PERCY
Percy Driver/Passenger: $200 ea.

But I would say its going to roughly be around $800-$1100 for 1/4" all around SHIPPED to your door (depending on shipment location) from Summit Racing.

Its around $1400 for the kit (1/4" windshield and 3/16" others)

Im getting their thickest just to be safer. Plus it says if size is not closest to stock window thickness there is a possibility of you not being able to use your power/manual windows as door tracks might have to be fabricated for thinner size window.

FSTFBDY

iTrader: (33)

Ive seen the Percy display at the PRI show and they have steel wool for you to try and scratch the **** outa the glass. and you can't.

Ive considered the stuff also.

ryan91rs

iTrader: (1)

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

ATTENTION: Prices from Summit Racing for 1/4" Side windows and Rear Hatch.

1/4" Side Windows $212
1/4" Hatch $397

Please follow these steps to make a purchase or to find out more.

1.) Call 1-800-230-3030
2.) Press 4 to enter Extension number
3.) Enter 5868
4.) Guys name is JW. Just ask him about Percy Speedglass (in 1/4") and make your way....

89RsPower!

curious, what fiberglass doors do you plan on running? Do they except factory hardware so the windows can be rolled down or are they the kind that just except lexan that cant be rolled down?

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

www.VFNFIBERGLASS.com

They will need ALOT of fabrication (Stated by a VFN Tech) to get the windows installed and working but it CAN be done. Also, MANUAL windows are ALOT easier than POWER....so probably not a good thing to have if you want FG doors and roll down windows.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I have yet to see 1 person on the net that has fiberglass doors in a thirdgen and working windows.

89RsPower!

same here that's why I asked..
----------
not really something I'd want on a street car, so I'm assuming wwd is building a strip only car or something to that affect..

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

well mine has the windows down anytime i street drive it regardless. Only to wash the car or hit the track will the windows be up. Doesn't see rain, etc so this would be a nice mod for my car with fiberglass doors, but not being able to have them seal nicely or roll up or down has prevented me from doing it.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

OKAY, not many people on here know what I am trying to do with my car.

I am the kid/guy whatever 20yo is to you, that when he is around his friends (mainly older than me 22-35) Im picked on as the one with the heavy 305 camaro...they have 350's....400's, big blocks, whatever. But what none of them care about is weight...and thats where I plan to beat them.

So my goal is lightweight and reliable....if I go all motor, then I tend to kill other parts, if I just buy doors, fenders, hood, hatch, windows, driveshaft, TC and flexplate, steering wheel, seats, fuel cell, wheels, mirrors, brakes, and suspension mods (Thank you SPOHN for lightweight chrome-moly)...none of these can really kill each other...you get what I am getting at?

I just want the QUICKER PICKER UPPER, then when the time is right and I have the $$$ for an ls1/t56 swap Ill do it. Until then, good MPG and LESS wear and tear and stress is in my vision. Make it ryde...and ryde for a while.

Plus I am only 20 and this is my first car...so I dont want to over power myself as that will just get me into trouble faster or even worse...an accident. Well hopefully everything in the next few years goes as planned.

GrannySShifting

Uhh lighter weight? Thats the MOST expensive way to go fast. Hood will be $1000 when painted (well) $1000 min in wheels. Plus near that in tires. $500 in front glass, $400+ in a aluminum driveshaft, $500 for kmember, $200 for wheel/adapter, $1000 in converter/flexplate (thats worth it for other reasons) $1500 in brakes for 50#s Back 'glass, hatch another $1000, doors Id assume about the same front fenders same, plus paint, basically repainting entire car. No real weight savings in seats unless your buying something like Kirkeys or maybe those horrible Jaz plastic seats, theres $200-$500 more, plus a bracket setup slider negate most of the weight savings.

Most suspension mods will make you heavier. The chromemoly stuff is a lb lighter per peice, maybe, alot of times its only marginally stronger not really any lighter. LCA, Panhard, swaybar, torque arm are all heavier than factory. TRZ rear sway/panhard is 7# lighter, set you back a solid $600.

SO now your up to $10-$11K ni parts pretty much plus paint. And maybe 3 tenths. Dont mean to come across wrong, but it wont work. You can build an engine instead, better idea

madhatter

iTrader: (1)

I know this is a total necropost, but did you ever get the doors finished and or functional?

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

When the time comes I'll be sticking with stock doors and speedglass. Unless something comes along the lines of fiberglass doors with roll-down window support the fabrication would kill trying to do both. So speedglass and stock doors. Or fiberglass doors and a window you can't roll down.

89RsPower!

Of course not, should have left it dead. I also doubt anybody would switch to all race glass on a slow street car to save 70 lbs, thats like the equivilent of a small child riding shotgun, not worth the trouble. Plus you then have crappy looking glass with screws all around the edges thats not very pratical in a street application. Losing weight is normally the way to go AFTER you already built your 11 sec or better driveline and are looking to shave a couple tenths and could care less about function/looks and more about gettin through the traps 2 tenths or better by gutting your car.

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

There are a lot of EPIC threads on this forum.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Everyone likes power. I like control.

Now back to speedglass.

madhatter

iTrader: (1)

Was just wondering if any one has successfully made a functional fiberglass door. My car is built to the hilt and could use some weight reduction, how ever if I cant roll the windows down there's no point to it.

I wouldn't mind scratched up shitty looking windows if they could be rolled down.

89RsPower!

I hear ya, no reason it couldnt be done, just seems nobody ever took the time to make a quality product to do it. Hell my 4th gen has glass doors from the factory with functional power windows... not sure how much lighter (if any) they'd truely be if there were a metal version to compare to however, they seem quite heavy honestly (most likely have to be to since they had to pass saftey standards for a passanger vech. with all the internal bracing and such...

madhatter

iTrader: (1)

To bad I'm so lazy and dont feel like trying to engineer a door, I bet a door from vfn with speed glass, and regulator probably wouldn't weigh more than 40 lbs. Oh well maybe one day I will find the time to make one.

91DropTopTA

Well, resurrecting an old thread, but has anyone used one of these windshields on the street? I'm looking for something that won't crack because down here in the third world called Louisiana a windshield is lucky to last a year without being chipped cracked and replaced. I'm tired of buying windshields to get cars inspected would this be a good alternative to glass? And I know they aren't DOT but no one will ever know calm down.

Brando5641

iTrader: (-1)

im calm