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Removing HVAC unit

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Old Aug 1, 2007 | 03:05 PM
  #1  
trumps2000's Avatar
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From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
Removing HVAC unit

I'm going to be removing my HVAC and cover it with a plate temporarily, so I can get access for a rust repair. I want to know how involved this is going to be before I start, but searching hasn't turned up anything in depth and my repair manual doesn't say much either. So whos done this before and how hard was it?
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Old Aug 2, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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From: NE Pennsylvania
Car: 85 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 TPI Procharger D1SC
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Strange S60 3.73
Re: Removing HVAC unit

can you do me a big favor and take pictures of your HVAC set up before you remove it?
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 09:05 AM
  #3  
trumps2000's Avatar
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From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
Re: Removing HVAC unit

Any reason why? Are you looking to remove yours too or just compare?
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 01:02 PM
  #4  
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From: Owen Sound
Car: 87 GTA
Re: Removing HVAC unit

Well...

If this is also including your heater core...

For a firebird this is how to remove it...

It's relatively extensive because of all the tight fitting of the interior dash parts.

Tools needed
10mm socket
7mm socket
Phillips screwdriver
Lots of patience...
1/4" socket (possibly 5.5mm socket)
13mm socket

Remove the radio trim plate.
Either 7mm or 10mm bolts to remove the radio and the heater controls
Disconnect the vacuum lines, heater motor connector and the cable heat control.

Use the Phillips screw driver to remove the 3 screws holding the center part of the dash pad into the firewall (in the center vent portion of the dash pad)
Use the 7mm socket with a screwdriver to remove the 7mm bolts from the underside of the dash pad, trim panels and other underdash hush panels.

After removing the underdash hush panels, disconnect the underdash lights.

Use the 7mm socket on the 2 bolts to lower the computer (if equipped) from the pass side behind the dash, move that out of the way. Usually easy enough to let it free hang down.

Disconnect the gauge clusters and remove those. Usually 7mm bolts holding these to the dash.

On either side of the dash, there should be a 10mm bolt holding the metal frame of the dash in place. Remove these bolts to loosen the rest of the dash. They are still held in place though by the steering column.

Underneath, unbolt the fuse panels and disconnect the dash frame ground connector. Disconnect any relays attached to the dash frame and push the plastic wire harness clips back through dash panel.

Locate underneath the drivers pedals on the firewall, the access holes for the steering column bolts. Use the 10mm socket with extensions if necessary to LOOSEN these screw-bolts. Do not remove them as it will be a royal pain in the *** to get them lined up again.

Underneath the steering column, there will be 2 silvered ny-lock nuts, use the 13mm socket to LOOSEN these.

Lower the steering column evenly on both sides using these 2 nuts.

Now the dash frame should pull towards you enough to get access to the remaining wire harness clips. Unclip these from the wire harness if you couldn't push the tabs through the dash frame.

This is where your patience is tested.

Once the wiring harness is hanging over the top of the steering column and away from the dash frame, you should be able to remove the dash frame as a whole piece. Be careful, there are possibly other screws holding the frame to the upper firewall. Be careful when pulling the dash frame out. You MIGHT have to disconnect the vent ducts as well that are hooked to the heater core, 7mm bolts hold those in places.

Once the frame is out, go into the engine bay.
Disconnect the heater core hoses from the firewall. 1/4" socket or 5.5mm socket to remove the hose clamps or whatever you have for clamps in there.
Set the hoses aside, watch for coolant, it will leak everywhere if you aren't careful.

Unbolt the heater core from the interior side of the firewall.
Remove the heater core.
Replace heater core/repair rust damage, whatever applies.

Reverse installation.

I may have forgotten some things but use your imagination if you get stuck.

Please note, this is going off my experience of doing this 4-5 times in my 88 firebirds, not the camaro so you may have some differences.

Good luck and hope this helps!
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 05:30 PM
  #5  
85Iroc-Z's Avatar
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From: NE Pennsylvania
Car: 85 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 TPI Procharger D1SC
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Strange S60 3.73
Re: Removing HVAC unit

I just wanted to compare them.
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Old Aug 3, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #6  
trumps2000's Avatar
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From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
Re: Removing HVAC unit

Thanx Merc for the heads up. I think I only need to remove the AC unit and blower fan to in the engine compartment to get to the rust. I have some rot on the firewall that needs cutting out.

85Iroc, I'll take some pictures of removing the AC unit if thats what your looking for. Just let me know of anything specific you wanna see.
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 07:28 AM
  #7  
merc3065's Avatar
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From: Owen Sound
Car: 87 GTA
Re: Removing HVAC unit

In that case

When you're pulling the AC box out, you need to purge the A/C system to remove the box easily. Otherwise it will be a super pain in the *** to maneuver it out from underneath the small a/c rad that's inside the box.

Anyhow let's say you purged the A/C system...

Disconnect the drier (silver canister in front of the a/c box). Remove that from it's bracket. Make sure the O ring is still there. Put some tape over the ends of the a/c lines for now to prevent dirt and moisture from entering either the drier or the rest of the lines.

Disconnect the fan leads and the relays that are hooked to the top of the a/c box.

If you can, disconnect the drier bracket, 10mm screw.

7mm screws hold the top of the a/c box on, remove those.
Remove the top of the a/c box.

On the inside on the driver's side firewall. Pull the carpet back and look for 3 access holes. There should be 2 silvery galvanized 10mm screws and 1 black oxide 10mm screw. Remove those, this is what holds the fan box to the firewall.

Once that is done, there should be additional 10mm screws in the engine bay on the firewall. surrounding the fan box. Remove those.

You need a 10mm deep socket to get at the one nut that is used to hold some wires in place on one of the studs that's poking through the firewall almost underneath where the heater core coolant lines run.

Once that is done, you might have to fight to get the fan box out but it should come out at that point.

Again, if it feels like it's still bolted DO NOT yank it. There's possibly another bolt on the inside passenger foot well up on the fire wall.

Hope this helps!
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Old Aug 4, 2007 | 08:15 AM
  #8  
85Iroc-Z's Avatar
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From: NE Pennsylvania
Car: 85 Iroc-Z
Engine: 383 TPI Procharger D1SC
Transmission: TKO600
Axle/Gears: Strange S60 3.73
Re: Removing HVAC unit

I would like to see how your black HVAC line from the firewall is hooked up.
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 07:58 PM
  #9  
trumps2000's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Bloomingdale, NJ
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5 5 Spd
Axle/Gears: Built 10bolt w/3.73s
Re: Removing HVAC unit

85Iroc, Here is a picture of my engine bay. You can see the black hose connected evaporator to the compressor(removed) to the condensor. Then there is line running on top of the passenger-side frame rail to connect the condensor to the evaporator.

Hope this helps.
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