I have an 1987 IROC that lived the 1st 1/2 of it's life in FL, and the 2nd 1/2 in Colorado. Neither place is easy on the paint job. It's got the clear coat peel, and the color has faded from Dark Red Metallic, to sort of this coppery color. So, it's time to do some paint. No rust, and no major damage, just a few nicks and dings. And I'm going to stick with the original color. So, the question is, how much of what's on there now do I strip off? Should I take it down to bare metal? I don't think so, I would think the old paint would make a better foundation since it's not peeling or anything. But I've never done this before. I guess the options are:
1/ Take off the clear coat, and rough up the base coat just enough to get the new color to stick.
2/ Take off the clear coat and at least some of the base coat.
3/ Take it all the way down to the primer and/or bare metal.

Also, for any of the above procedures, what grit would you use?

Thanks!

 

I am in the process of stripping my entire car down to the bare metal. I went through POR-15 for my chemicals. Through my research, and some may disagree, you should strip the paint if the present surface has sever fading or cracking.
In my case, the front clip and rear bumper cover are plastic, and of course there was cracking present. My car had a poor second paint job, and I am not a believer in continuing to add multiple layers of different paint jobs. I just decided to strip the entire car, and have it look better than ever.
When you use the chemical stripper, it is going to penetrate beyond the top clear coat. It all depends on the condition of the present surface, as to how far it actually penetrates. Some spots, it will go straight through to the metal, others, it will only penetrate the clear coat.
If you do decide to strip the paint, make sure you purchase a "metal prep" before you prime. This helps to "etch" the bare metal to prepare it for primer, and to also act as a rust preventative. Besides, if you strip it down to bare metal and leave it for a day or two, it will begin to rust, and you are sanding all over again.
If you decide not to strip, just scuff the surface with a mild grit (nothing over 320, but nothing to coarse). Use a wax/grease remover to clean the body after sanding, and then begin your priming.
If you go to the POR-15 website, you can purchase the stripper, metal prep, cleaner, and primer directly from the website. It is an excellent brand to use for prepwork and priming.
Best of Luck!

 

Don't strip down to bare metal if you don't have any rust. First, by stripping down to bare metal you are removing the factory corrosion protection which does a pretty good job. It's something you will have to reapply anyway so why bother removing it. You will have to use an etching primer or similar; plane old primer won't work as good. POR-15 is a great product when used properly with the marine clean and metal prep. I have used it on areas that had rust and I did not want it to come back. Second, new paint will stick to old paint better. If there is no dings or rust all you have to do is scuff with 400 grit or scotch brite then spray.

If I were you, I would reapply a base coat and clear coat. It's real hard to remove the clear with out compromising the base coat. There is a blending clear, but that is used for blending new clear to old good clear.

Check this CarCraft article.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...eap/index.html

 

Ooo, that's a good article, thanks! Since this IS the original paint job, i'll just knock off the top coat, and do base and clear. And use 320 grit to knock off the top. I'm debating at this point whether to invest in the compressor and spray guns and paint, or just to do all the body work myself and then run it down to the local maaco to get sprayed. I'm thinking 2 coats of basecolor and one of clear. I also really like the idea of doing the car in 2-tone like the z-28's, red with gold ground effects, it won't look like a real IROC, but we please ourselves with our paintjobs, right?

 

Nice

 

By stripping down to bare metal, we of course know that the factory corrosion prohibitor or primer in other words is being removed. Back in the '80s they weren't as sophisticated as they are today, as chemical treatments and preps are today.
I had mentioned POR-15 as being amoung the industry leaders as corrosion inhibitors and protectants. If you are to strip down to "bare Metal", in order to get that "Perfect" show car finish, then you will use the POR-15 Metal Prep which is a rust treatment/proventative and an etcher combined.
If you just want to remove the clear, then sandpaper it. If you choose to use stripper, then you'll find yourself opening up a whole entire playing field by definately penetrating beyond that.

If you decide to paint the car yourself or even prime it, you are talking about alot of money invested into purchasing the items. The compressor needs to meet the CFM requirements of the specific spray gun. My 3.5HP - 20 gl DevilBiss Compressor cost me several hundred at a used price. It barely meets my spray gun requirments.
In other words, if you are going to spend several hundred dollars on Sandpaper, Primer, Bondo, Chemical Metal Treatment (Rust Prohibitor & Etcher), Quality Spray Gun, Air Compressor, and various other things that form along the way, why not give yourself the quality of a show car finish that you have definately invested in. You sound like you have the spending allowance, so just put a few more hours into it, and do it RIGHT how a third generation owner should.