blocked laquer primer w/180

sprayed synthetic enamel sealer primer thinned way down

then sprayed implement paint

 

just curious,how did that turn out?I didn't think that synthetic enamels and lacquer got along with each other.
I've seen stuff that looked like it was sprayed with paint stripper.

 

it came out good but I got more orange peal than I would have liked

after I sprayed the sealer that seperates the laquer from the enamel I will not lay down a thin layer of paint

instead I will just lay it down nice and wet after a half hour tack time between coats

I will never wetsand a car w/400 again

any more questions ask!!!

 

wow dude....wait till that thing dries out and it all sinks back into the scratches from the 180....scary....

 

I give it a year

 

you just cant wet sand any paint. Some paints dont harden enough to wet sand, those paints usually are designed to be sprayed on and left alone, because they will cure into a nice glossy finish. So you really need to match everything with everything. Even the prep work like sanding is paint specific. Then the primer needs to be compatible with the primer. And then any clear coat needs to be compatible with the paint, and then you need to follow the after application steps, like wet sanding, some needs it, some doesnt, some just need to be buffed with a fine compound.

 

I don't know what to say.

 

well, at least it was 180 GRIT and not 180 GRAND...

 

As long as you do your last primer filler and sealer coat without sanding you should be fine infact the paint will stick alot better. You will have alot of orange peel but after a thick base and clear and a good wetsand/buff it will look real good. 400g is the lowest I would go though just becuase i would be scared incase those scratches did show up later on especially on a dark colour base.

 

dont do it with a urethane base

the scratches are not coming back

I bet if you painted enamel over 80 grit and put down three wet coats with a 1/2 hour flash time in between you would not see the sanding marks

you can put urethane clear over enamel

you can sand enamel within a week if you use enough hardener

wetsand the enamel w/400 and spray clear

see what you guys dont understand is that the way you are shown is not always the only way that will work

also I will never measure reduser again. I have gotten two gallons of paint that were two different viscosities

I do the drips off the paintstick method

if you use a sealer you dont have to worry about using laquer primer under your paint

Can I ask just one thing

if you havent tried it or know someone who has keep your opinions to a minimum unless they are helpful

 

I actually just tried it the other day on my wing, but i put on one more coat of primer and didnt sand it, then I put a thick base coat on and it looked like all it might have needed was a light wetsand and buff. I did use a DA sander so I don't know what it might looked like if you blocked it or didnt use an orbital style sander. Do you have any pics of your finished paint jamon??

 

well i hope it works out for you good, but i work at a body shop, a professional body shop with 50 years of experience around me and i would never ever ever think of doung sumthing like that, i block the first coat of high build primer with 220 because i done like using 180 on anything...then 320 next coat and 400 wet final coat...i think the guy would get mad if i do 180 like you on his 67 RS/SS camaro with a 6 figure resto on it.....but to each his own....i hope it dont dry up on you and look like ****

 

I did autobody for 5 years in school and work and every body shop has different procedures anyone who knows paint knows that you dont need to sand very much becuase your paint should do the work for you.. as it dries it gets flatter. the only reason everyone does tons and tons of sanding is to just be sure that you dont see those scratches. Using a thick layer of primer filler will always be fairly flat, but you need to wetsand your base and clear. It's a waste of time sanding every layer becuase you just dont have to. Depending on the products you use I think you could get a good paint job with minimal sanding.

 

ah ok grit.. i was wondering why someone would paint all that money..

 

what happens is the primer doesnt sink all the way into those scratches and the air thats trapped between the metal and the primer will eventually find its way out and when it does the primer will "sink" into those scratches thus revealing them thru the base and clear.

 

ok we are talking sealer primer over the 180 in the high build primer

then use acrilic enamel as your base its way cheaper

you can spray urethane clear over enamel

here is the website that I got the ideas from
http://www.paintforcars.com/clearcoat_urethane.html

here is where I got the idea for spraying over 180
http://www.paintforcars.com/supplies_primer.html

and yes it works

just because someone does something for many years does not mean that something else could come along that makes more sense

the world is not flat anymore

 

You've gotta be kidding. It's been known for years that lacquer primer WILL shrink back into that coarse of a sanding scratch. How bad the shrinkage looks, will depend on the grit you sanded with.

You are going 20 years back in time--------not forward. This is not "pushing the envelope" or "blowing anyone's mind" here. This is basic paint 101. Lacquer shrinks (fact). The coarser the sanding scratches, the worse the shrinkage will look over time (fact). Been there, seen it, done it. It might take a year, but it will shrink into those scratches.

2k glazes and urethanes should not shrink back into a 180 grit scratch, but lacquer most likely will.

Come on now. The guys that are disagreeing with you are correct, and they are trying to help you. Hit up www.autobody101.com for some good paint and body advice. Good bunch of guys over there, I am on the forum quite a bit.

 

some people are hard on hearing around here when you try to help them...

 

the synthetic sealer is used to stop the problem with the laquer primer

you know what? I think that I am going to stop sharing

you guys can go ahead and spend the 800 for all the supplies

pull your car next to mine, even in 10 years, and my 200 in supplies will outshine yours

heres the catch- we are both using urethane clear

whats gonna look better under your clear

A- a flat base
b- enamel

oh yeah with half the time spent as well

just the same concept as your 1000 dollar heads that wont outflow mine that I have 200 and 6 hours of porting

but with that I am done trying to release my ideas and methods because of people like you who dont even read entire threads

did you even read the links that I posted before telling me I am wrong

I am not telling you that you are wrong all I am saying is that just because you learned one way does not mean that it is the only way it can be done

there are a ton of adjustment steps that have to be learned that are not required when you spend a ton of money on name brand materials

 

this car was painted in implement paint 22 dollars a gallon

its a little dirty

 

I might just block him with 600

 

No.1 laquer primer way old school, yes enamel over laquer will work not the other way around though. snythetic sealer? why not a catylized sealer? And yes, after 6 months you will have shrinkage after 180 grit sand marks. Your car, do it anyway you want but why step back 20 years, except you're a tightass and won't spend the money to do it right. Might as well used rattle cans!!!!!!!!!!!!!
----------
I guess you like the looks of a catapilar or a john deere huh?

 

It looks like a cheap paint job.. Do you have pics of the recent job you just did?