Ok So I knew I had some dime sized holes in the floor boards, no big deal I was going to weld them up befre I put my SFCs in.....

So I tore the interior apart peeled the carpet back ohhhh this side is nice.



Then the other side....








So I still thought I could handle this job until I pulled up the wires/cover along the rocker area and found this.






This is beyond my metal working/welding skill level.

Does anyone sell that brace or front LH floor pan? Or the kick panel area?

This is horrible I do not now where to get this metal.

 

I don't know of anywhere that sells floor pans in pieces. Classic Industries sells the pans in full length driver and passenger sides and I believe also the trunk floor pan. I believe the price is something like $250/side which is a bit pricey to me, but they are in the original shape so that makes things a lot easier. The pan should have that brace with it.

 

I have a friend who could cut that out of a car he is parting out. PM me if interested. Thats the worst one I have ever seen!!! WOW!!

 

if you know some one that has a little 110 welder. then that is definatly fixable. the only way to learn is to try. no matter what you do you are going to have to start by removing all the rusty metal. if i were you would try to remove all the rust that i could with a wire wheel on a grinder. then cut out all the holey metal (with cut off wheel or tin snips) so it is a more regular shape. make a cardpoard template and transfer that over to sheet metal to make your patch. then just weld in the patch and use some silicone seam sealer around the hole thing. and if that doesnt work, then all your rust is already gone and you can then buy the patch that you are looking for now. floor board are a great place to learn to do repair work because no one will ever see it once you are done!

 

here is a link that i dug up for you. i remember seeing it about 6months ago. it is from a guy on this forum "quadgoat". his rust was not as bad but his repair was pretty good and should be information at least if not inspirational. hope you like!! http://www.pontiacfanatic.com/92firebird/

 

That link was really good thanks. And I agree VERY inspirational.

I have a nice welder And I can do little square patches no problem, but the intricacy of the spot that goes up the kick panel has me flustered.

What company makes a paintable seam sealer?

 

I am in the same boat with the kick panel rot and i will tell you what was told to me. Doesn't matter how bad it looks when it's done as long ans its tight and waterproof- doesn't matter what it looks like the carpet will cover it

+1 for the cardboard tip thats the way I went

 

I would go with some POR15 and 3m seam sealer.
Also KJZ28/TA,to have that kind of damage only on the driverside close to the firewall/eng. comp. I would recomend checking the grommets and other things that go through there for missing rubber grommets and nonfactory wiring like stereo wiring from a prev. owner perhaps? and also check the cowl area for rust or leaks.By cowl I mean the area thats located under the w/s wipers and under the screen under those.

 

Thanks for those tips.

yes there is an aftermarket stereo, and some other misc. So I will search the firewall for grommets. I guess I will do it myself cat hurt I guess.

Thanks for the info.

 

dude that nothing compared to mine, u could see the carpet coming from bottom. i didn't buy after market i just fit thin metal 20 gauge i think and welded them in and tar them up and put rust oleum on them. u cant rly they the where hacked to death! lol

 

Ouch, that's nasty. Makes the 8 inch holes I fixed under my rear seats look like nothing. Good luck!

 

I have a whole bunch of 16 gauge flat stock from the floor boards I was doing in my 78 Z28,

Is 16 gauge too thick?

 

I just did mine as well. I had the same problem under the rubber piece that holds the factory wiring. I got some sheet metal and rolled it along that same edge. Because I am not a welder I used a drill and sheet metal screws. Added some silicone (to stop water leaks) and Por -15 (to prevent future rust) and it is as tight as a drum. Like everyone said no one can tell how you get your end result.

 

 

Good example of why everyone who owns a 3rd gen should pull their carpet, both front and back. Most often you will find rust like that or worse. Problem is there are to many spots for them to rust and not be visable form the bottom.

Mine looked factory nice from the bottom, but once the back carpet was out, I had lots of rust to fix.

 

Heh Its good to own a texas car. I pulled my carpet and it was brand spanking new.

 

Well Texas boy I wish I could of got the brand spanking new floor boards, but I didnt.

Anyway thanks guys for all the pics and advice.

 

lol well it wont be to hard to fix that rust. it will be a challenge but best of luck with it man.

 

Well thanks man. Yeah I went outside a few minutes ago to start hacking away, a sat there poking at it for a couple minutes, started to get flustered,

Then tried to see how I can take that firewall insulation pad off so I could start....I have no idea how to take it off without taking the dash out.

Anyone have any ideas?

 

the pad runs behind the bracket that retains the brake booster and your pedals. you can cut the insulation or take the dash off.

 

rip and pull what padding is in the way out, then piece back together later.

 

I didnt want to rip it apart but if I have to I guess.


Is it a paint to take the dash out? Because my Air ducting vents are filthy, and if it is not hard to take the dash out I might do it and clean the vents also.

 

You can see my adventures in rust here, just note at one time html was allowed, but some yahoo turned it off, so now the pic don't load.

part1
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/1...ht=back+halfed

part2
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/1...ht=back+halfed

part3
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/2...highlight=rust


http://viragotech.com/rust.html
http://viragotech.com/rust2.html
http://viragotech.com/rust3.html
http://viragotech.com/rust4.html
http://viragotech.com/rust5.html

What really made a difference is there is that vally the runs down the sides of the car where the sides meet the floor, dig all the goop out of the crack and weld it with a piece of 1.4in rod in there to bridge the gap. Its really stiffened things up, along with welding all the body seams. Them cheesy spot welds they used suck.