Ok so my dad just picked up like $500 in painting supplies for his bike, and i guess hes taking on the task of painting my car, ive argued with him for hours on the paint mixtures (last time he painted a car he was still using laquer paint)

When it comes to our front clips and rear bumpers, minus the GFX we have to use a flex agent in the paint correct? Is there anywhere else i'd need a flex agent on our cars?

 

See my recent post 'feels like xmas", I used his black enamel paint in 04, didn't use any flex stuff and have had no problems what so ever.

Only reason Im paiting again is some new body parts, doors, hatch.

Dude sells gallons of paint for awesome prices.
None of that $50 a pint stuff, you get a whole gallon for that or allot less.
And a gallon goes a long long way.

 

any flexible body part (plastic) "should" have a flex agent in the clear (and primer?) but I never use any and never really have any problems either.

 

Yeah master disaster,I'm another who painted his own car and didn't use any flex additive for the bumper covers.I used a single stage 2part urethane and cleared over top of that with the same companies 2part clear.
I pulled the motor out of my car about 7-8 months after paint and the eng. hoist slid while the eng. was 5ft. in the air and smacked my bumper cover and still have no cracks in the paint.Just a couple scuff marks.
Maybe I just got lucky?IDK,but as far as I know,these parts don't receive enough flex on a daily basis to require flex adds,and if the car is hit/wrecked hard enough,chances are your going to need a new bumper cover or at minimum new paint anyway so,I guess theres really no need for it?

Oh yeah,forgot mention that I did use the special primer for these parts from SEM
since I had to strip all of the existing paint off due to cracking.

 

Check with your paint supplier. In newer paints, flex agents now are mainly to give body shops a window of time with a little more flexibility to get the part installed and then they tend to go away. Since DIY'ers tend to take awhile to get their cars reassembled it may be a waste of money to use it.

 

were gonna sand it down at my uncles shop, hit it with the primer, then a base coat of blue (dont know if im gonna run the iroc blue or a darker one) and then clear coat it so i guess it'd be a 2 stage job right? i was just gonna paint the bumpers off the car to be safe with some flex agent but i guess price will determine the job lol

anywhere i can get paint that isnt $50 a frieakin quart? Overall how much should i need to do the car?

 

LIke I said see my post

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...mas-again.html

 

you dont need felx additinve...
you need a gallon of color
gallon of clear
gallon of primer...
good luck

 

You need to go or call whoever sold you the paint.There will be a tech sheet that will tell you the perimeters and application of each of your products. You need to follow those if you want any kind of reliability and durability with your products. You can experience all kinds of problems if you don't, you may not but is it worth the risk. I use and do all kinds of things that are not on tech sheets every day, but that has caused me lots of headaches over the years. Cheap products SUCK! don't take risks do it right the first time. You only do this once in a very long time, at least most of you do. use a single system/brand of products, if you are short on money napa/sherwin williams carry martin senior paints they are discount and good. I have used almost every major paint line out there. Most clear coats do not need any kind of flex agent, and I hate adding anything to a clear it WILL cause longevity issues. You need to use a primer sealer wet into the base coat and immediately go to clear. It will chemically bond your paint. That is how we have to do insurance certified work.

 

im not gonna skimp on paint, i just dont like paying $50 a quart for it.

Anyone know a good place for it?

 

reds and blues are the most expensive. you could always paint it white.

 

blah no. Not a fan of white lol i like my blue camaro, id like to get it back to the original color because the guy before me had it shot at Macco, for the cheap job with "electric blue" which is lighter shade, and now it looks terrible

 

You will need 2 quarts of color to paint the car, if you are not painting inside the doors and hood, etc. If it is a complete job, you will need a gallon of color (base/clear paint mixes out at 1part paint to 1 part reducer, so 2 quarts of color will give you one gallon sprayable). Then you will need a gallon of clearcoat and hardner. I have purchased paint from Sam Ditchek online and they are pretty reasonable. Ask them for PPG shopline paint, it sprays out really good and is relatively inexpensive. $50.00 a quart is about right, however for any decent paint. I would say you will spend about $300 for your paint materials (cheap), you could spend a lot more for better stuff, but i have had very good luck with the shopline paint (formerly Omni). I think the name of the blue you are looking for is "medium quasar blue metallic".

 

the guy who painted my car before i got it diddnt use flex agent so now i have a big crack in the paint under my door handle from trying to shut it with my new weather stripping

 

i doubt that was caused by no flex, most modern bc/cc paints dont need flex. Perhaps your car was painted with acrylic enamel. AE paint really has a bad rap but applied properly and maintained properly, it actually can come our really well. the crack in the paint is probobly from poor bodywork underneath

 

thats a big possibility considering the same guy fixed a hole in the floor with expanding foam, cardboard, and ducttape oh well the cars bein painted spring anyway

 

I prefer duct tape myself!

 

im pretty ready for the $300 price range lol

as far as the color goes, is it a code i hand over to the paint place and they mix it or???? If i cant figure it out im just gonna sort through their color swatches until i find as close to the original blue as possible

 

If you have the code they can look it up. If you don't you can search by year and manufacturer. It should be easy to find it in the book.

 

If the original decal is still on the door it should have the paint code on it, otherwise go to autocolorlibrary.com, look up your year and they will have all the chips with the paint codes.

 

lol master disaster, My father is the same way, he hasn't shot paint since the old laquers and still wanted to use an old can of primer on my car under my poly paint. I told him No way and were using a different primer now.

 

The SEM primer did great on my back bumper but on the front where everything flexes more it cracked - big time. from personal exper. i won't use it again. do not use flex in the clear.