Never a dull moment with these classics.

So I replaced the hatch struts with ones from TDS - wow those things are stout. Now when I close the hatch, the clasping mechanism won't catch. I can push it down with a screw driver and it clicks (locks), but the U shaped metal piece on the hatch itself doesn't seem to engage the clasper.

Also, when I push down the locking mechanism with the screw driver and push the button on the console, it disengages, so that part appears to be fine.

I can't imagine the new hatch struts would have caused this. Maybe the clasper got pushed down a hair so it's not engaging fully...? Any ideas?

 

Your new struts may be taking up some slack from wear in the hinges and forcing the deck lid slightly out of alignment. It could also be pushing the decklid away from the glass if the glass is not installed properly or the original bond has broken. Hopefully it's none of that and you just need to adjust the latch to fit. If you take the bolts out of the latch and drop it out of the way and hold the hatch closed, check and see if it aligns side to side and check that it's not sticking out the back past the corners of the 1/4 panels. If everything looks good reinstall the latch and adjust it to fit.

If I tell you it's easy you'll believe me right?

 

First, check the condition of the guides and hatch housing. You check the guides by grabbing hold of the latch and seeing if you get movelemt side-to side or front to back (indicated bad guides) or up and down (ndicated bad hatch housing). Next thing to do is remove the rear hatch surround trim panel to expose the hatch pull-down unit. Mark the existing location of the frame of the pull-down unit to the body with a scratch awl or permanent marker. If the guides were bad or housing you'll need to relace them. If they are OK, then as was already suggested close the hatch and check that the hatch hook is centered on the latch. Also check if the latch latches properly. You can do it by using a screwdriver to simulate the hatch hook. Release it with the key or switch. Yes if the hatch is now too far to the rear of the car it can also cause this condition. As I recall there is a tech article on adjusting it. They get sprung to the rear from the force of the hatch struts.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

Thanks guys, you're absolutely right. I went out and checked the hatch and the spoiler is now jutting out about 1/4 inch over since the new strut install.

I also noticed a rather large gap - enough to put a finger through - at the top where the glass and hinges are. It looks like I'll have to adjust the hatch to push it up a bit. I'm now positive this is why the hatch won't shut.

How does this installation sound: take off the struts, support the hatch, loosen the hinge nuts, adjust, tighten nuts, put struts back on and you're good. Clearly simplified, but sounds about right?

 

You will probably need to adjust the hinge at the body, not at the glass, often times there is some old dried sealer filling the hole that you will need to remove to get full adjustment. It might be easier if you had the struts off and the hatch down so you could just lift the front edge and support it on a block of wood or something while you work on it.

 

There are two points of possible movement where you may need to adjust. If you've got a larger gap between the hatch glass trim and body at the top, then you'll adjust it at the hinge. If that doesn't fix it then you need to remove the rear metal portion of the hatch from the glass and adjust it there. As 1piece@atime already suggested, you need to remove one end of the hatch strut while you're making the adjustments.

Lon

 

Here's something that's been bugging me: Are these aftermarket hatch struts TOO strong? I'm concerned because since the install, apparently the entire hatch has moved to where it obviously now needs an adjustment.

I guess Lon can answer this one due to these being TDS hatch struts. Are they made exactly like the OEM struts in terms of force to collapse them? Is this a normal issue to where a simple strut install moves the entire hatch or is this just an example of a 24 year old car showing its age?

 

The application for the struts is Firebirds with the heavy solid urethane aero-spoilers. They are stronger than OEM. Most likely your bolts on that one hinge were a bit loose already. The new stronger struts shifted that one pair of mounting bolts. I suppose I should recommend to tighten your bolts before installing the struts?

Lon