I have a teal '92 RS... it needs a respray... that's it. It's getting painted teal again due to the last owner doing a crappy job. All that needs to really be done is mask the windows, door handles, etc, and just repaint it teal and clearcoat it... what's that going to cost?

Anyone done this?

 

best bet would be to just call around your local autobody shops.
a buddy at my work paid $3300 to change to a different shade of red on his 93 TA. they painted in the door jams...everywhere but under hood. they oversprayed on lights, lots of little dots on the hood....more over spray on the rubber round the window....

anyways make sure they use the proper paint on your front and rear bumpers.

 

No offense but if all they do is mask a few things up and start painting, you're going to have a crappy job on top of a crappy job. I know it's done all the time, but that doesn't make it good. For a good job everything that touches the paint will be need to be removed, not masked.
Now everytime I say this it seems to start an online argument. Yes I know some people have done it different and they think their car looks just fine. Good for them. Some people spend weeks rolling on and sanding off tractor paint and are proud of the job they did. And we see the pics and the car looks good... In the pics. Looking at the pics of your car I'd say it looks better than good already and yet you aren't happy with it. I can't imagine you'd be happy with some of the other paint jobs either.
Go to a good shop in your area. Talk to them and look at their work. They'll be more than happy to give you a price.

 

I paid 1327.00 They completely pulled the car apart as they should have and fixed what must have been 10,000 rock chips on the front end. The paint was flawless and i was still getting compliments on it 5 years later. My current car is going back to the same shop.

 

you can do it yourself, a little time and elbow greese will get it done. i paid 1800 for my paint job and it was all ****ed up. so after much argueing with he guy that did it, i redid it myself. it came out awesome, and it was a hell of a lot cheaper. as far as paint for the front and rear bumpers, really there is no difference. they add a flex agent to the paint so it flexes on the plastics, however it evaporates out of the paint in a month or so, so really you dont have to add flex agents if you dont want to. from my experience if you want it done right do it yourself, otherwise, you will pay out the *** for it to be done right.

check out

http://autobody101.com

the forums there answer alot of questions you will have about sanding painting colorsanding and so on. they also have videos floating around on there. good luck

 

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i had mine done for 2k , but this is a long time family friend who owns the body shop . he uses only dupont top shelf stuff . i would say 2-3k for a good body work & paint job . good luck .

 

Well i work at a body shop and i did it all myself. "I" would recommend stripping the whole car down to bare metal prime it block and prime it one more time if your looking for a long lasting job. Its what i did to mine and priced out for what i did myself is about $3500.00

 

They took EVERYTHING off. From what I could tell the paint was really scuffed up good. Almost to the point of not recognizing the color anymore. He had no problem with me hanging out for an hour or so while he worked. I dont care if hed charge me 10k to paint my engine bay. He would get the work! It was billed out as a respray. Here is a pic of the car about 6 years after the paint.

 

I just got my quote today..$3900, but he brought it down to $3500!! Thats with everything but doors and fenders removed. I'm doing all the tear down and replacing of the parts. Hes also throwing in painting the door handles, lock cylinders, hatch glass trim, t-top trim, and installing all the weatherstriping for FREE!! It (weatherstripping) will be all genuine GM, he gets a 15% discount. He does car show quality work, his 71 vette pace cars black paint is simply flawless. I feel like a kid in a candy store lol.

 

I think I want go go to some cheap *** place and pay like $1,500-$2,500. $4,000 is WAY to much for me. I have to pay $5,800 per semester just for college!!!

 

You still need to hit up a couple shops in your area and tell them what you're looking for. See what they can do for you. And let us know what they say.

 

$2,500 is baseline where I live for a semi-quality paint job.

 

i spent $1300~ give or take for everything (Primer, paint, clear, gun, bondo, sandpaper/blocks, materials to make a booth, air water separator, tack clothes etc.) except i borrowed air hoses and a compressor. i took it down a good amount, not all the way to bare metal but pretty far into the original paint, and it came out good. if you have the time + resources i would do it yourself. If you are taking it to a shop for sure, and only want a cheap respray, imo your best bet it to take as much of the car apart as you can ( headlights, side markers, put on some beater rims, beater t-tops, take the tail lights off when you drop it off ), and have some place like macco spray it, but bring/buy from them good paint, base/clear, and it should turn out pretty good for cheaper than letting a shop do all the work. getting a cheap respray means it WONT be the last paintjob the car ever sees, so you have to consider is it worth risking having overspray on your weatherstripping, window trim/felt, possibly engine bay, door handles, locks, windsheild wipers etc. just to have a better, but not great paintjob? or should you wait untill you can afford a nice, pro-job done right? that decision is entirely up to you, for me i knew i couldnt do a half-baked job on my car, so i did it myself on the cheap.

As for the flex agent in the bumper's paint, (my paint shop - omni, ppg, and house of color distributer) told me that all modern primers and base-colors have the flex agent in them already, and you only need to add it to the clear coat for the bumpers

 

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If it's just a mask and respray with very minor body work I can probably help ya out if your somewhere near menomonee falls. I have a buddy who's dad owns a body shop. Including all my body work and such I pay 1500 plus 250 for a wetsand and buff. Turned out amazing. My 86 is going there to get painted 91 teal very soon. For you, to just respray it would probably be around 1300-1500 including full wetsand and buff. Pm me if you want.

 

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Problem is most shops dont want to do a complete paint job, their money is all in insurance 2-3k fender benders, in and out.

I paid 7k for my last complete in 2001, hood,fenders,doors and hatch painted off car and pulled motor so engine bay,cowl and firewall could be painted. Quality paint is expensive, my buddy painted his Olds a few years ago and had over 2k in materials.

 

I couldn't agree more. You get what you pay for, and $400 Maaco jobs are just that, VERY cheap quality IMO. And yes i have seen multiple maaco jobs.
I'm painting my car ONE TIME, and want an excellent job!

 

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One time is right, the RS I just bought has a maaco red paint job and you cant touch or wash it, the paint comes off on your hands.

To get a quality paint job you have to remove alot of things like weatherstriping and lights,and to paint the jambs right, the doors. Also having the car stripped to bare metal(media blast)and epoxy primered will make the paint job last longer IMO.

Quality paint and prep and the job will be better than the factory did.

 

The car has to come apart AT LEAST like this

- after this picture was taken the rubber seal around the trunk came off, too.

All the weatherstripping from the doors has to come off, and definitely all the weatherstripping from the body (it's a bitch if the car is a T-top). You should also take out the trunk interior and the black metal t-top centerpiece (you'll be glad you did). This is also a great opportunity to replace all the urethane sealant under the weatherstripping all over the car (upon reassembly, that is).

The old paint has to be sanded down, no other way to do it right. believe me, you don't want to pay 3K for something that will only last a few seasons. You want your car to be fresh and nice just like new, right? I'm sure you'd like it to last another quarter century, so do it right. It's really not that much of a problem.

I took mine apart myself. You just need a motherload of ziploc bags to keeps screws labeled and organized. You can do at least some of the sanding, too. You'll get an excellent paint job afterwards, save a couple K, and more importantly discover any signs of cancer underneath the trim that could otherwise emerge in one or two years.

I found three little rusted-out holes in my wheel wells. That's only a year after another body shop rebuilt them. They did a crappy job with whatever they touched and there's no way I'll let them anywhere near my car ever again.

And look closely at the quarter panel where it normally meets the bumper. See that rust? That's why you can't just mask things off.

My repaint will be only $3500, but I'm doing all the disassembling and reassembling. I had no idea it was so easy (and fun). it's just time-consuming, that's why you always end up paying thousands for the manhours if you have someone else do it for you.

 

The days of really expensive paint work are over...for now. If you want a deal find who does work for reputable car dealers. Find the smaller shops. They do not have to even have a booth. I have sprayed cars professionally for 8 years and I can beat the,'as sprayed,' finish of a paint booth out side 99% of the time. Everyone has to color sand and buff just the same. It all buffs out. The real problem is work ethic. If the guy doing the work is a reputable drug free 100% hard working, car guy, he will get it right. Just remember there are many types of body shops and painters. I do panel and spot work, I rarely do whole cars. I can blend color and do clear coat burn-ins perfectly that others will tell me all day are impossible. Find a guy that sprays whole cars all day long. He knows what he is doing. If you shop around and do not go to the direct repair, insurance type body shop you can easily find a perfect paint job for $1500. I spray new cars all the time, along with the body shops I work with. Who knows you may be driving one of the thousands of cars I have worked on, my best complement on my work is none at all, you don't even know I was there.


Oh and to anyone who says to strip a paint job off. they never discovered 2k primer and primer sealers. Both allow you to seal old paint and problems off. A paint job is only as good as what it is sprayed on. Don't ever expect perfection out of a respray on top of a respray. If it is pealing and you don't remove that paint and spray over it, it will start pealing again as will everything on top of it. Prime it seal it spray it. Remember the old mid 90's neon's? Dodge decided it could cut costs by not applying a sealer...they don't do it any more...

 

That's the least of my problems now... my car might be for sale very soon.

 

What happened?

 

Lifter tick + low oil pressure... it's probably going to need a rebuild... that's thousands of dollars... and a swap would cost more. It's running 15-20 psi under WOT... it's supposed to be 30-40 at idle. I might just have to cut my losses with this car... for what I have into it, I could have an LS1 Camaro. I am now close to $5,000 in this car... I bought it for $2,000... to give you an idea of the money that I've used trying to save this car... I am affraid I might have to let go.



Haha... good memories... the day I bought her... the only thing I thought it needed was a new front valence...


Here she is now... thousands later. I still haven't even replaced the valence.

 

check your oil pressure sending unit if that goes bad you'll get a way low reading, dont give up on a thirdgen

 

All cars are money pits, man. LS1 cars are also a lot more expensive to mod. Sure, you could find one for $5k but chances are it's beat and has high mileage.

 

I just need some help... big time. I'll check it.

 

5K is nothing! Mine costed me 7K so far and after this restoration it's undergoing now it will be a nice 10.5K. And it's only a 2.8. That LS1 you're thinking of would surely cost you at least about as much to keep running, if not much more...

 

For 5k you can get a high mileage LS1 that has its problems and need a rebuild. I just sold my 99 LS1 for 5k with 150k miles, to buy a 89 RS with 123k miles. Your RS looks real clean, how much?

 

Thanks, it really is a nice car... If I were selling I'd ask $3,500 o.b.o.... that would only make this a loss of $1,500. Nice thing is, it was a Florida car for 16 years! It really shows, no rust... anywhere.

 

dude i read alot of your threads. Lifter tick is no big deal your oil pressure prob is not an issue either. my car has 95k and at idle 450 rpms mind you is at 10 psi in the roasting summer. never goes over 40 psi either wot. My 94 burb with a 350 same way. I can find you 305's all day long up here in eau claire for 300 bucks. Hell i have a 350 herfe i will sell you for 400.

for comparioson my 99 ws6 sits at 20 psi fulley warmed and never goers past 60psi either. Oil pressure is ilreleveant flow is what is important.

 

Thanks... I'm interested in the 350... if you could PM me with details...

 

My buddy has paperwork on the person who owned the car before him, they went to AMCO and paid like $700 for a horrible paint job... no over spray but they didn't paint the jams or anything.

I am priming and rattle canning my car for like $100

 

I took a 70 Challenger apart and basically made a quarter panel because the owner just want to "BONDO" it up and I just can't bring myself to do that. I painted it with Hemi Orange and painted jambs, inside of the hood, inside the trunk, engine bay and pulled what seemed to be 100's of dents with my stud puller. I charged him $4500. I have been doing body work since I was 15. My best friend works at a body shop and they HATE doing overall jobs. They will high-ball you just as a deterrent. Anybody with one eyeball and some instruction and a CLEAN place to paint can do it. The trick is take your time and concentrate on prep work. I have turned out 100's of slick-a$$ jobs out of the garage behind my house. Good Prep + Clean Shop + Wetsand and buff= Bad a$$ paint.