solutions for motor overheat issues
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 194
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From: close to Wichita Kansas
Car: '91 RS CP now is the son's driver
Engine: CP =3.1, will get V-8 maybe someday
Transmission: stock
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi W/ disks
solutions for motor overheat issues
Hello everybody: I have been reading the threads about overheat issues and decided to start a new thread dedicated to "solutions". so let us start the discussion : It is a well known fact in the Third gen' community that the pesky noisemaker under the radiator, does more to embarrass us "especially if we are trying to show off for the babes" when it scrapes the ground or whatever happens to be out there! so we get rid of that piece of crap plastic "who needs it anyway?". then all of a sudden our pride and joy is setting on the side of the road overheated, subsequently we take it to the shop and the good mechanic can't find the cause for her sudden hot flashes. Now I know that the air dam is not missing on all of the "HOT" cars, and i hope to hear from you all that have issues, maybe someone out there has "been there, done that" and can shed some light on us. I have fabricated my own air dam, out of 1/4" rubber conveyor belt stock, I will post pictures soon it did drop my engine temp down to the thermostat setting and keeps it there. please post your solutions to this pesky issue. Macer the Racer
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 394
Likes: 2
From: SW Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98 - 350 TPI
Transmission: MD8 - 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3/G80 - 2.77 POSI
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
Hello everybody: I have been reading the threads about overheat issues and decided to start a new thread dedicated to "solutions". so let us start the discussion : It is a well known fact in the Third gen' community that the pesky noisemaker under the radiator, does more to embarrass us "especially if we are trying to show off for the babes" when it scrapes the ground or whatever happens to be out there! so we get rid of that piece of crap plastic "who needs it anyway?". then all of a sudden our pride and joy is setting on the side of the road overheated, subsequently we take it to the shop and the good mechanic can't find the cause for her sudden hot flashes. Now I know that the air dam is not missing on all of the "HOT" cars, and i hope to hear from you all that have issues, maybe someone out there has "been there, done that" and can shed some light on us. I have fabricated my own air dam, out of 1/4" rubber conveyor belt stock, I will post pictures soon it did drop my engine temp down to the thermostat setting and keeps it there. please post your solutions to this pesky issue. Macer the Racer
Secondly, the air dam does not scrape that much. The air dam on my C6 scrapes way more than the Camaro does. Leave the air dam, you really do need it!
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: close to Wichita Kansas
Car: '91 RS CP now is the son's driver
Engine: CP =3.1, will get V-8 maybe someday
Transmission: stock
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi W/ disks
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
Well first I kept my air dam, it isn't that ugly. Then I installed a 160 degree thermostat and replaced the 210 degree fan thermostat with a 175 degree one so the fans kick on at 175 instead of 210. When I am driving the car runs about 110, stopped at idle, it will heat up to 175 and the fans kick on and brings it back down...
Secondly, the air dam does not scrape that much. The air dam on my C6 scrapes way more than the Camaro does. Leave the air dam, you really do need it!
Secondly, the air dam does not scrape that much. The air dam on my C6 scrapes way more than the Camaro does. Leave the air dam, you really do need it!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/sets/ click on the individual pictures to get description
ps glad to hear you kept it, not many do, I have had 7 third gens (including parts cars) ALL and I did say ALL were or are missing, it is unbelievable to me that many people are ..... well you get it.
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 394
Likes: 2
From: SW Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98 - 350 TPI
Transmission: MD8 - 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3/G80 - 2.77 POSI
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
COOL! do you have part #'s for the fan switch I like that idea, and will use it on my 327 TPI build up.. go here to see my ....... $%&^#&* rigged er Fabricated air dam
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/sets/ click on the individual pictures to get description
ps glad to hear you kept it, not many do, I have had 7 third gens (including parts cars) ALL and I did say ALL were or are missing, it is unbelievable to me that many people are ..... well you get it.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/tinbender59/sets/ click on the individual pictures to get description
ps glad to hear you kept it, not many do, I have had 7 third gens (including parts cars) ALL and I did say ALL were or are missing, it is unbelievable to me that many people are ..... well you get it.
Well I have a stock 350 TPI with a hypertech chip. The part number I got is HYP-4026 http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku from Summit but it is a direct replacement for the factory sensor in the 350. Not sure if it will fit in your application. Good luck!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
First Question: Why is this in "body"?
Secondly: Is the temp switch on the pass. side head? Or drivers?
Secondly: Is the temp switch on the pass. side head? Or drivers?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,674
Likes: 3
From: Windsor Ontario
Car: 1987 Firebird Formula
Engine: 2004 LQ4
Transmission: T-5 WC
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
Emission controlled engines run much better at the stock thermostat temperature. You get less wear at an even 90* Celcius than you do running from 40* celcius to 60* and so on, and so forth. This is why it's much better to keep a T-stat.. I guess if you really want to cool your engine.. All you have to do is use a 1 1/4" hole saw and go around the nose drilling holes..
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
From: close to Wichita Kansas
Car: '91 RS CP now is the son's driver
Engine: CP =3.1, will get V-8 maybe someday
Transmission: stock
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi W/ disks
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
I guess it is here because I R Stupid, actually I did'nt see the Cooling forum
and it is in the passenger side head, mine is accessable ONLY from the bottom of the car, also if the powers that be can move this I wouldnt protest Trending Topics
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 0
From: Minnesota
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 370 LSX, LS3 Top End
Transmission: Built T-56
Axle/Gears: 9" Aluminum Center 3.89's
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
Ah don't call yourself stupid. I have gained knowledge from you already, I now know the sensor is in the pass side head thanks to you. BTW, i have my manifolds out so i saw that thing sticking there wondering what it was. One of the Moderators will move it for us.
Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 394
Likes: 2
From: SW Ohio
Car: 1989 IROC-Z28
Engine: L98 - 350 TPI
Transmission: MD8 - 700R4
Axle/Gears: GH3/G80 - 2.77 POSI
Re: solutions for motor overheat issues
Emission controlled engines run much better at the stock thermostat temperature. You get less wear at an even 90* Celcius than you do running from 40* celcius to 60* and so on, and so forth. This is why it's much better to keep a T-stat.. I guess if you really want to cool your engine.. All you have to do is use a 1 1/4" hole saw and go around the nose drilling holes..
The car does not jump around like that. It runs cool, 110ish (you call it what 40?) normally but it heats up in traffic or at idle. Why would I want it to heat up to 220 when I can have the fan kick on at 175? Regardless the car runs constant 110ish when driving, thanks to the air dam!
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