Hi I am new here and have done some reading and decided this site is the best placw for info regaurding these cars. Now on to my issue, I have just bought my first IROC, it is an 87, it has a 350tpi but it was a 305tpi, I know for a fact it is a 350 cause I got to talk to the shop that built the engine. But I am wondering if it is a real IROC. It does not have the power hatch, power antenna, or disc brakes in the rear. So I am wondering how I can tell if its a real IROC. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Well if it originally had a 305 TPI and the Vin (eighth letter is a F) it is a IROC-Z28. Also if the RPO codes are still under the console lid check for RPO BZ4 (IROC Package). Other items you listed were extra cost options and not required on the IROC except the power hatch release. Which may not be working??
Otherwise it should be IROC just because if the original engine was a TPI

 

OK thank you I will check for the code cause this car is in mint shape. That is why i suspect that the rear hatch power pull down is not in this car cause eveything else works like new. I will have to check that out some more. So basically if it is an IROC its a base model? Thanks

 

I couldnt find a BZ4 but I found a B4Z also the 8th digit is a F

 

B4Z = IROC.

 

B4Z is the correct RPO for a IROC.

http://www.iroc-zpostforum.com/FAQ.htm


Forgot to mention, a better place to post this type of question is the History/Restoration section.

 

Thanx guys, also good to point out where I shuda looked and posted thread. Big thanx to all!!

 

I had the Wrong RPO....and those are correct for RPO (B4Z) & "F" engine code is for 305TPI , so don't worry about the car not being a IROC.

 

but as other members here have confirmed you could order the TPI setup on a base Z_28.so you could have a z with the top dog engine instead of having a IROC. they say check the drivers door for the tire sticker,but most of our cars by now have been repainted at least once.they say check your SPID sticker in the console,but after more than 20 years of having cokes and the like spilled on them,its rare to find one you can still read. the trim tag on the radiator brace is another place you can get some information but ,again by now most have been tore off. if this is your situation you can do a title search.you can find the original owner of your car that way.and ask them if its a IROC or not,they may even still have photos to back it up

 

you seriously brought up a 3 year old post to say this?

 

At least give him credit for using the search. Sometimes I get old threads and new threads mixed together on all my open windows too. Lol...

 

What's the diff how old the post is? Maybe he's got some new info or ran into the same problem. At least he cares enough to add something useful.

 

yeah,im afflicted.i do care about whoever else loves their third gen.and it seems to me after trolling forever here that they are way more questions than factual answers.so if i have learned something in the quest to make my car "right" IMA GONNA POST!!!

 

I can appreciate that response, however, he did not provide anything "new" to help this situation. The question was asked three years ago if the guy had an IROC-Z. It was confirmed with the B4Z code, three years ago. The discussion ended at that point and no other questions were asked. Granted, there was some misinformation in other responses, but again, none of it was new.

Again, question was asked and answered. Plus, the OP hasn't even been on the boards since September of 09!

 

True, but Rusty`s post seems more directed to DJP87Z28.

 

I know I've only been here for only a few months but I don't remember reading any thing in the topic guidleines that prohibited responding to a post no matter how old the post is. If you can direct me to that guideline I would appreciate it so I can conform to the rules you are attempting to enforce.

 

My 1988 trans am has no console. or glove box.

 

Good place to ask but.... you cant always believe what people tell you, specially if the shop had anything to do with selling the car.

I had bought my current project car about 3 years ago and was told then that it was a 350. I could do nothing but trust the information to be correct. However the engine wasn't why I bought the car. I bought it because the body was in excellent shape as well as the floors. For a car thats spent 23 years(at the time) in Canada, I knew it to be a well looked after car. I've since then believed the car to not work very good for a 350 so decided this winter to pull it out and rebuild it. After pulling it apart and checking casting numbers on the heads and then the block.. I find it to be a 305HO engine.

I would check the serial number on the heads and try to get the number off of the block too while I was at it if I were you. Just to make sure that you arent being lied to much like I was and more than likely countless other people who have bought cars(any car for that matter). A 350 will add value to a car for a seller than to say its a 305, and very few things(as far as I know) to differentiate the two when opening the hood for a peek.

 

How many times have we read this on this board? Unless you can read the casting number I wouldn't take any one's word for it. I can tell you from expereince that I have a 350 in my Camaro in place of the LG4 and except for the valve covers and a couple other incidentals I have to tell people what kind of motor it is because it looks no different than the factory power plant.