http://www.rustbullet.com/Products/A...Automotive.asp

I actually got that link from a banner right on this website. The "STOP Rust Permanently" logo caught my eye.

So the website claims that little or no surface prep is required and it stops rust in its tracks, etc etc. Anybody try this stuff? If it works it would come in handy for me.

 

I wondering the same thing. Rust Bullet or something else? Anyone? I got T-Top rust and Floor repair in progress and I need a good sealer.

 

Yeah I was thinking about coating my suspension pieces and underbody with that stuff if it actually works. A few opinions would be great. And do you guys know of any other similar products that work?

 

Well, I ordered Rust Bullet from Summit racing. After Reading the FAQ section of the rust bullet website I'm confused... i want to use it for T-Top rust And floor board rust which means a top coat will be used at least on the roof. it's confusing on exactly how to use rust bullet with sandable primer and paint but I'll keep everyone posted on what I find out.

 

Another choice:

http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/P...cationInfo.pdf

JamesC

 

i'm with JamesC on this...i'd go with POR-15. a lot of guys here use it, including myself, and highly recommend it. i've never heard of Rust Bullet, but POR-15 has a very good reputation that's well established. it may be a little pricey, but its totally worth it.

 

I don't know much about POR 15 but watching the videos on Rust bullet's website, the 500 hour salt water spray test in particular, Rust Bullet out performed POR 15. Of course they are going to say that, it's their product they're pushing.

The tutorials are what is confusing to me. Let rust bullet stand for 24-72 hours to cure. but if you're going to use a top coat, let it stand 6-10, but if you let it stand 6-10, it might not have all the moisture out of it and cause bubbling or reduced adhering between coats, so let it stand 23-72, then use metal blaster or wet-sand and apply a third coat of rust bullet and let stand for 6-10 hours....

Wait, I thought it needed to stand 24-72 depending on humidity?

Reminds me of the shampoo instructions. Lather, rinse, repeat. When do you ever get out of the shower?

Like I said, I have it on order, I’ll let everyone know how it goes. As for the inside floor pans I’m thinking sand-blast, rust bullet and black shell it and call it done. The T-Top and roof areas that are going to be repainted with the rest of the car are the big issue.

 

Gotta love it!

 

Reminds me of the shampoo instructions. Lather, rinse, repeat. When do you ever get out of the shower?


When you run out of shampoo! Duh!

 

So each of em are 1 time use only? Even the huge jugs you buy at Costco? aw man!

 

Don't even get me started on huge jugs.

 

The rust bullet is hard as hell when it cures.I have used POR 15,SEM Rustshield and the rust bullet.I prefer SEM over the POR 15 for covering under car parts but for repairing and grinding out any rust spots the rust bullet is awsome stuff.You have to scuff it with with some sandpaper then u can topcoat it with primer and paint

 

Figured as much. especially since they claim you can fill over top of the rust bullet product. I do find the 6-10 / 24-72 hour loop theory entertaining though.

I love the fact that you can brake the loop with their metal blast product that you rinse off with water, then there it is, "Note: surface must be completely dry before top coat is applied." I had to quit watching the video after I heard that one.

Like I said, I am going to try it and the Black shell product. Both are on order from Summit Racing and should be here tomorrow.

 

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I have my car in a garage right now which I'm working on and so what would you guys recommend? POR-15 seems to have a strong reputation. I'd like something that would withstand DD duty in the non-salt months. Once winter is over (assuming my car is ready), my Trans Am is gonna be driven. Not some little garage queen lol.

And what would you guys recommend for surface prep? It just seems too good to be true to just slap this stuff on rusty parts, but the companies say thats OK. Hmm.

 

Anything that's rusty will have to be ground down to clean up the metal as much as possible, and any primer like that you paint over will have to be left to dry completely and sanded. Just my on the matter of how to use it.

 

Oh I'd definitely clean it up the best I can, but you know... there are always those very tight places on these cars that rust finds but aren't really "sand-able." Just wondering if this stuff will last even if it's painted over some surface rust.

 

On the rust bullet stuff. I sand blasted and brushed it on just to cover the bare metal. The car was tarped and sat out side for a few months and a snow storm or two. The tarp got saturated etc etc etc..I need to tell you. The rust bullet held. Near term, I'm impressed.

The down side is that I have brush lines that I'll need to sand out and re-apply with a gun this time. But I moved too. So now I have a garage again. I'm going to do the floor with the Rust Bullet and black shell combo and so far I'm not sorry I went with Rust Bullet.

I don't think however I'd apply it over rust. media-blast or what ever you need to do.

I hope to have it done this spring.