My 91 Formula has the classic "access panel" where the previous owner removed the fuel pump.

I would like to fix this mess when I swap my tank/pump/sender.

Since I don't have immediate access to a welder, I'm thinking of taking a piece of sheet metal, just slightly larger than the hole and then holding it in place with rivots. Then I'm thinking I'll get some seam sealer and seal around the inside and outside edges. Then of course priming it so it doesn't rust.

Anyone else have any bright, cost effective ideas?

 

if you can't get to a welder, sounds like a good plan thus far. may not be a bad idea to hit up the underside with some undercoating as well.

 

Why not just clean up the access door?

Mathius

 

We done a friends fourth gen bird vert that way. Went to lowes and got polished step plate and put that down with a little butyl and rivets. Worked great and looked good too!

 

That's what I was thinking. I can't think of any reason to block off the access door unless he's one of those "that's not the right way to do it" guys In which case, rivets aren't the "right way to do it" either.

It can be cleaned up, the edges broke back and made clean, and a nice looking access door installed. There was a really nice one someone did in one of the threads in the fabrication section.

EDIT: Here it is:



Mathius

 

Where is a door like that available?

 

looks like you can get one from JJ industries,

If you looking for an alternative to welding 3M makes a product call "Panel Bond" It's a two part epoxy made for gluing body panels to vehicles.

 

http://jlindustries.com/Sweets/Access_Panels.pdf It's the SMT serries

 

Panel bond is great stuff, untill you have to remove the panel without destroying it. You can heat it to get it to release but remember why the hole is there.

Reason for pop rivets is floor panel is too thin to hold self tapping screw. You could use fold nuts and machine screws. Pop rivets weigh less and much less expensive. Just don't drill too deep, you make strike gas!

Didn't know about that access door. That looks good, much easier than dropping rear axle and tank.

 

Im one of those "its not the right way EVER" guys, but since its already there, you are pretty much stuck with it. Like everbody else is saying, clean up the hole and buy/build a clear accesd door that is sealed and uses riv-serts and machinescrews, or a hinge to open and close. Its a very difficult hole to fix since the sheetmetal is only paper thin in that area. Just be sure to repaint/seal the work on the underside when you are done and have the tank out ( i assume the tank is coming out?) to prevent rust from forming from below.

how bad is the hole? or is it pretty reasonable? i've seen some nightmares

 

You could get away with self tapping screws on the stock floors, we use them on 26 gauge or thinner in HVAC all the time. I still don't recommend it though because you'll have all kinds of screws sticking down through the floor. I got rid of my camaro back in 2001 or so, and I can't remember what's under there, but pointed screws down by the gas tank just sounds like a bad idea.

Just be careful when you rivet the holes are lined up. If you have to ream it out, the rivets won't hold well. I've had the best experience whether rivets or screws by starting out in the middle and making sure the panel is flat against the other as I work my way to the end. That seems to keep me from having a ripple in the metal where there will be a gap.

You still might want to consider putting a hem on the stock floor before you rivet just so you don't have a jagged edge underneath, unless you're going to sandwich the stock floor with your access frame. To make a hem, you have to notch the corners (aviation snips work good for this), and then fold them over. A quarter inch is fine... anything will do. You can use hand tongs if you have them or worst case scenario make a series of cuts and you can fold them over with regular plyers or something.

Mathius

 

IMO I would just leave it until you can get a welder and a new floor for it. I realize you didn't put the hole there, but there's no real reason to have a hole cut in the floor for it seeing as fuel pumps only need to be replaced every what, 5-10 years? Even at that it's just a two day job of dropping the axle and the tank. You can always take it to the dealer and have them replace the pump in the future if you just don't feel like doing it, that's what I did with mine--it's a crappy job best done with a lift, so let someone else deal with it. So what I would do is just save for a new floor/welder, and then get yourself a new pump and right before you do it, put the new pump in just as preventative maintenance; it would blow to fix the floor and then have the pump go out two weeks later.

 

I'm thinking more and more about an access door of some kind. Even if it's just a cover that is riveted in, I think it'll do the job. The big question I have is with regards to the floor contour - Its got those lines in it, and mounting a flat plate (or door) to it is going to leave gaps where the floor's lines are. Any idea for combating that?

 

how big is the hole? pics? usually the hole is cut between 2 of the beads on the floor, so a flat plate shoudl work just fine. If its a really big hole, things may be different. A pic would be great.

 

That works for the ends L & R, but you'll still have the lines in the middle that will create gaps on the F&R edges of the door.......

edit... I'll have to check to see if the P/O cut in between the "dips" or not.

 

Well, I took some pics today and unfortunately the P/O cut right where I was hoping he hadn't....

Here are some pics:









Here are some of the inside of the tank and old sending unit, just to show how bad it is/was:







Any ideas/suggestions?

 

You need to replace that tank.

 

Just got my new tank today....... In the meantime, I need to figure what route I'm going to take on the hole there... 'Cause it'll need to be repaired when the old tank is out.

 

Just finish the Access Door mod. You'll be happy you did it, when the pump dies in the middle of the road & your stuck on the shoulder.

Go to the store, get a pump, and in 15 min (after you get back to the car....Your driving it again.

Access Doors are not "wrong". GM not installing an Access Door in the first place, is what is wrong.

Are the hard lines cut & turned into Disconnects already?

 

I really need to find a "door" locally and cheap. I don't really have the money to put into some fancy door that I've got to order.

As for the lines, they are just cut, nothing more, as of yet. Ideas? I've never flared a line, nor do I know what parts I'll need to connect them together........ help!

 

The "correct way" to connect them is do the flares & AN fitting, but not NECCESSARY.

Double hose clamps on each end of high pressure rubber hose, 180 degrees from each other will work.

 

What size lines are the factory ones? Are they all (4) the same size?

How about the A/N fittings - Where's the best place to get em? I've never had to use 'em before so I've got no idea how they do together.

 

How about this access door? Has anyone used it?

http://www.allstar-performance.com/p...&part=ALL18534



Its $50 plus shipping, but it looks like it'll work. Its a 14"x14" panel, which is just larger than the whole that was cut out of the back - I'm thinking of rivoting it in place. Any guess as to if there will be gas fumes coming through when its all seamed up? Or got any other ideas of a way to cover the door as to not get the fumes?

 

Duct-Tape


Once I was finally done with mine, should never need to go back in unless the pump died. I sealed it shut with clear silicone then covered the whole area with smittymats

Dunno why no one makes a stamped piece that fit that area is beyond me, and sell one that is stock for those who want to cover it and one with a pre made nice racing type hole. Easy set in place and 3M Bond.

 

love this!

 

 

sorry...meant to post:

Love THIS!

 

You guys think a 6x6 panel would give enough room to access the lines and what not?

 

Here is my surprise. I gutted the car for a rolling resto, and found a license plate screwed to the floor under the carpet in the back. Seems the PO was lazy.


DSC08134.jpg?t=1294667400

So I pulled the screws and found his version of a fuel pump access panel.

DSC08172.jpg?t=1294667581
DSC08171.jpg?t=1294667645

So I fixed it. A couple lengths of 3/4" angle, stainless machine screws, 16 gauge cold rolled steel, and gasket material.
DSC08211.jpg?t=1294667915
DSC08216.jpg?t=1294667866
DSC08219.jpg?t=1294667993
DSC08220.jpg?t=1294668029


Viola. Flush mounted(albiet the screw heads are a bit higher) fuel pump access panel with everything but the gasket material purchased from the Depot.

 

Honestly I was disappointed when I pulled back the carpet and there was no hole, even if it had been done half assed it would be easier to make nice than start from scratch,lol.
And what was wrong with the license plate access panel? it added character :P