Has anyone ever plastic welded the seams on the bumper to go along with a shaved body? I am curious how that would look if you also fabbed up your own rocker panels out of sheetmetal. Any ideas would be helpful. thanks

 

I'm thinkin that might be your answer. I'm trying to look at it now and see everything possible that can be shaved or smoothed on a thirdgen. Havnt seen the bumpers or bottom moldings blended into the rest of the body though. I think it would look ridiculous if done. I think all the extra lines and pieces are the biggest draw back to the car.

 

I know this has been talked about before. I even want to say that someone here tried doing it. I'd think that with the ammount of movement these cars have it'd start cracking over time. Even with the differnt expansion rates of the two materials might crack the paint/fille

 

Last week I acquired a wonderful candidate for a full gutting and renovation. It's a $500 running 1990 rs 305. The guy thought rearend was bad, however it was simply the tranny mount. I've got it at the bodyshop I work at right now and I'm looking at trying to integrate the bumpers to the fenders/quarters and also the bottom moldings to the bumpers and doors.

 

My plan is to smooth what we think is possible then prime and seal it and daily drive it for a while to see how well it holds up. I'm sure it's possible for a show car but don't know about a daily driver. I'm gonna stay away from bondo as much as possible and look more towards panel bond, seam sealer and tiger hair or fiber glass fillers for the larger areas.

 

interesting

 

Got the car torn down this week and just finished shavin the door handles, key holes and front fender side markers. I didn't completely cut out the door handles. Just removed them, grinded down then made patch panels out of some sheet metal and tacked them in. The first side I tacked in about every 3/4 of an in then ran a bead but warped the sheet metal a little. The pass side i just did tack welds a lot closer and worked better. Easier quicker and less heat. I then grinded and covered the holes with U.S.C. duraglass fiberglass filler. After that some evercoat bondo and then some metal glaze/putty. I'll post some pics tomorrow after I shave the fuel lid and the antenna.

 

I'm still looking at how to shave more such as the rear bumper as well as the ground effects on the door and fenders. Not hard too hard to do, but not quite sure if there really is a right way to do it that will last. Involves some thick areas of filler as well as bonding plastic and metal so not sure yet.

 

Picture of the beauty. Like I said perfect candidate for a full gutting.

 

Trying the pic again

 

Progress pics from this week.

 

First coat of bondo over the handles

 

Haven't done the fuel door or antenna yet. I'm still thinking about how to do the fuel door. I believe I'll run it to the back compartment like others have. Cut the top of the filler neck off then attatch a rubber hose to the fuel filler line then put the top of the filler neck and gas cap back on top of the rubber hose if that makes any sense.

 

I did antenna, rocker ground efx emblem, and rear wiper. As far as seams, I don't think will last more then one drive if you filled, now if you covered the seam with something solid and then feathered out , it may work.

 

It won't work, and it won't look good. Trust me. Even if you Chip Foosed it, it would still look bad.

 

Good job on shaving the door handles. Its gonna look bad a** on the car. Hopefully I can get around to doing it soon too. What kind of keyless entry are you going to install.

 

Filling the seams between the bumper covers and fenders has been tried before. It doesn't work, it's just a (short) matter of time before it cracks.

 

That's what I'm thinkin. But I'm still gonna shave the rear emblem and smooth the entire rear bumper, both the line on top that is recessed as well as smooth the bottom line that goes with the ground fx. No bondo, some epoxy filler.

 

I've thought about trying it as well, my plan was/is to maybe try putting a strip of fiberglass mat behind the fender and nose along the seam, then filling in the gap from the outside. Though like the others, I am afraid it would wind up cracking, now would be the time for me to do it since I'm about to paint my car, but then I'd be worried about it cracking and screwing up the new paint..

 

Pics up tomorrow, both doors are completely done. 10 hours at least in to each door after all said and done. Just have fenders and bupers left then external body work complete. Gonna put the car in some hot rod flatz in a week or so then daily drive it for the next few months. Real paint job after engine bay and motor done. 350 at the machine shop now. When the motor's completely built I'll rip the 305 out and begin completely smoothing the engine bay. Hopin to get as clean as possible under the hood, some good inspiration from others on the site.

 

On the subject of smoothing and shaving, does anyone have a hood that is fabbed up completely smooth and straight underneath to go with a clean engine bay? Just a thot. And anyone gotta pic of the bottom of an aftermarket fiberglass hood? Is reinforcement different than stock im guessing?

 

I just shaved my ground effects with 3M plastic repair #8557.....roughed up the recessed area with a 50 grit, then some adhesion promoter, then the 3M stuff.....I did it in 3 layers and sanded/adhesion promoter each time....this stuff has a self leveling quality to it.....worked out great

 

I meant #5887

 

anymore pics?

 

stand by on the pics......I found its way easier to hide the lines if you bevel the edges of the recess before adding the filler...I also used this stuff along with 3M 4240 to fix the rips in my chin spoiler