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Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:05 PM
  #1  
92Firebug's Avatar
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From: wisconsin
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird Base
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4, B&M shifter & shift kit inst
Axle/Gears: 3:23....10 bolt
Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

I have some plastic t-tops for my firebird and I want to know if theres a way to re-enamel them (their dull and scratched). Can I use a compound to fill the scratches? Or should I just sand it a little bit and then enamel? Help Please!
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #2  
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From: Putnam Valley, NY
Car: 1992 RS 6spd
Engine: Carbed 357c.i.
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Soon to be Strange S60
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Lightly sand with 800 grit, repeat with 1k grit, then 1.5k grit, then 2k grit. Polish with compound. They'll shine up. Or if you need to paint them a different color, 600 grit, plastic paint adhesion promotor, color, clear coat.
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #3  
92Firebug's Avatar
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From: wisconsin
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird Base
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4, B&M shifter & shift kit inst
Axle/Gears: 3:23....10 bolt
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Originally Posted by calamitascamaro
Lightly sand with 800 grit, repeat with 1k grit, then 1.5k grit, then 2k grit. Polish with compound. They'll shine up. Or if you need to paint them a different color, 600 grit, plastic paint adhesion promotor, color, clear coat.
Could I just use 2000 grit from the start? It looks like they have been sanded already..What kind of compound should I look for?
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Old May 5, 2011 | 10:17 PM
  #4  
92Firebug's Avatar
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From: wisconsin
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird Base
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4, B&M shifter & shift kit inst
Axle/Gears: 3:23....10 bolt
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Here is a pic.
Attached Thumbnails Plastic T-Top Resto Help!-n525666518_1809245_3297674.jpg  
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Old May 6, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #5  
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From: Putnam Valley, NY
Car: 1992 RS 6spd
Engine: Carbed 357c.i.
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Soon to be Strange S60
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Start with 1500 grit. move up from there. If you have use of a buffer, then get polishing compound for automotive paint.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #6  
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From: Port Orchard,WA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 SD TPI
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Its gonna take a lot of tlc on those, I restore headlights at work which is the same concept on a larger scale, we use a pre treatment to loosen up everything on the top, wet sand with 400, clean, wet sand with 600, clean, then 1500, then 2k, you have to use even pressure so you don't gouge it up with the heavier grits, don't be afraid to apply some good pressure though, sand the same direction each stroke no circles or you will see it, make sure the entire piece has the same look to it when you're done with each grit

Now here's the kicker, we use a product line that isn't publicly available that's where I see this being an izsssue, the "resto kits" you can buy are garbage, the polishing compounds don't work and its never a one step shot, I have to use 4 different pads to shine lights up and then we also use a clearcoat on ikt to prevent oxidation, I've never seen public kits go that in depth and our setup yields results

Look into select products, you might be able to get your hands on their stuff, its pricey, but it works everytime
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Old May 6, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #7  
calamitascamaro's Avatar
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From: Putnam Valley, NY
Car: 1992 RS 6spd
Engine: Carbed 357c.i.
Transmission: Built T56
Axle/Gears: Soon to be Strange S60
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Originally Posted by BluFBdy
Its gonna take a lot of tlc on those, I restore headlights at work which is the same concept on a larger scale, we use a pre treatment to loosen up everything on the top, wet sand with 400, clean, wet sand with 600, clean, then 1500, then 2k, you have to use even pressure so you don't gouge it up with the heavier grits, don't be afraid to apply some good pressure though, sand the same direction each stroke no circles or you will see it, make sure the entire piece has the same look to it when you're done with each grit

Now here's the kicker, we use a product line that isn't publicly available that's where I see this being an izsssue, the "resto kits" you can buy are garbage, the polishing compounds don't work and its never a one step shot, I have to use 4 different pads to shine lights up and then we also use a clearcoat on ikt to prevent oxidation, I've never seen public kits go that in depth and our setup yields results

Look into select products, you might be able to get your hands on their stuff, its pricey, but it works everytime
Can you find out what kind of clear you use on those plastics? I hate wet sanding and buffing my buddies headlights on their cars once every season.
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Old May 6, 2011 | 03:52 PM
  #8  
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From: Port Orchard,WA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 SD TPI
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Its made by rightlook
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Old May 7, 2011 | 09:41 PM
  #9  
92Firebug's Avatar
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From: wisconsin
Car: 1992 Pontiac Firebird Base
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700r4, B&M shifter & shift kit inst
Axle/Gears: 3:23....10 bolt
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Sanding seems like a bit much, with all those grits...but all im looking for is a good shine, meaning enamel rattle can or buffing it out, but i do have a buffer and a very nice electric sander I could use.
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Old May 8, 2011 | 01:24 AM
  #10  
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From: Port Orchard,WA
Car: 89 Camaro RS
Engine: 355 SD TPI
Transmission: WCT5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 Posi
Re: Plastic T-Top Resto Help!

Originally Posted by 91Firebug
Sanding seems like a bit much, with all those grits...but all im looking for is a good shine, meaning enamel rattle can or buffing it out, but i do have a buffer and a very nice electric sander I could use.
That hazy dull look is oxidation. Polishing won't do you any good, you can't buff rust, which is oxidized metal, so buffing oxidated plastic is useless. To get the scratches out you have to resurface it by sanding and buffing it with an oxidation removing compound. When you sand it to get out the scratchs you will remove the layer of oxidation, ridding you of the dull haze, buff it with the proper compound and correct pads and your golden. Electric sanders will heat up too much and probably burn into the plastic leaving a permanent mark, even an orbital one.

You're limted to your hands, half effort yields half results.
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