I'm confused...I just replaced my struts (and the mounts), shocks, and idler arms, and had the gearbox adjusted, but the other night, while backing out of a parking spot and doing low speed parking lot maneuvering, the car creaked & groaned louder than ever, and I'm pretty sure I felt some flex. It doesn't happen while driving at normal (or higher) speeds, and noise, handling, and control are actually very good.

I know I'm going to get a bunch of replies preaching the SFC gospel, but how badly do I really need them if regular driving is not impacted? Am I risking more by not doing anything to correct zero throttle, parking lot speed turning?

I knew doing any kind of improvements would open up a Pandora's Box...so now let's say I bite the bullet and do the SFC's. What can I expect to go next as a result of this improvement?

 

Common at lock to lock turning even with a Wonderbar in place. SFC's won't help in that regard. They simply help keep the body's integrity in place.

JamesC

 

James,

Thanks for the quick response. So while it's common, is it something I NEED to act on? Can it compromise safety or cause damage to other hardware or systems? Or can I just let it be and accept the creaking as something any 22 year old car is going to do sooner or later?

 

It can crack the steering box area (I'd check to make sure that's not the case. If so, have the crack welded). If all's well, I'd install a Wonderbar for insurance, but more importantly, I'd manoeuve the car so that didn't go lock to lock

JamesC

 

I think that last bit is the easiest, although I'll get the steering box checked just in case...thanks!

 

Sometimes lock to lock maneuvering can not be completely avoided.
I have to maneuver quite a bit to get in and out of my garage. The garage entry also has quite an incline so the car body flexes quite a bit. I try to not turn the wheel all the way. Just ease off at the last 1/8th turn which allows the front tires to roll a little more compared to when completely locked.

There is no mentionable creaking however when I do so.

As James mentioned, check the steering box area for cracks and add a wonderbar/equivalent. It's a cheap add on but definately helps keeping the inegrity of the front subframe area intact. The car is 20 years old. It might need some aid for the next 20 years, and some cars came with these when new for good reason.

After the wonderbar you can add strut braces. If you do, you will only find out that the car body now flexes in a different area. So, off to SFC's. Once they're on there is less flexing but the car creaks in yet another area.

As you say, pandoras box.

If you do not want to end up with a full tubular chassis (little exaggeration, I admit) the best place to start, after confirming the steering box area and if you have a coupe, the B pillar corners do not have any cracks, is to make sure all suspension bushings and the stabilizer endlinks are good.

 

Check rear upper shock mounts. I replaced my shocks and had same problem. I loosened up the shock till the squeak went away. May need some lube. Sounded awful.

 

I like the idea, but if you loosen up the shocks too much, wouldn't that compromise handling and overall integrity?

 

I really don't believe you'll notice whether the bushings are mashed flat or not. Like I said a little lube may take care of it if that is what is squeaking. Mine sounded much like you describe.