I'm just curious as to why flanging replacement panels is such a big deal. Why not butt-weld the things on? It has to be done anyway to a flanged panel, just to fill the gap...?

[edit] That is, "a full weld bead must be layed down" anyway with a flanged panel, just to fill the gap. Why not make the bead as a result of butt-welding?

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited December 01, 2000).]

 

i 've never replaced a panel on a thirdgen, but i'll take a guess based on my years of welding experience. would it provide more metal to weld to? make a heat sink? if it welds away from the edge it would carry more heat than welding the edge of the panel. like i said i'm just guessing at it.

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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd

 

Hey, good ideas! A heat sink would make sense. Also, the more metal idea... maybe the thought is you can weld the panel in two spots, so it's stronger? I take it you usually butt-weld panels together? I'll probably get these clamps when I go to replace that 1/4 panel:
http://www.eastwoodco.com/cgi-bin/sg...6502279&FNM=20

(They're the fourth item down on the page.)

I'll have to nab a beat up fender from a junkyard to practice on first


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Butt welding makes for a weld with better penetration and a solid weld completely thru the metal leaving no places for water to collect as oppsed to flaring which leaves one side (depending on accessability) unwelded also leaving a lip on the backside for water & other dirts to collect and create rust since you cannot protect the metal underneath the lip (welding will burn any paint off).
As for the clapms you are looking at,,,those are for making butt welds, but are handy.
You have to be very careful when welding thin gauge metal keeping each spot weld cool to keep warping (an body filler use) to a minimum.


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Da Boid

- 4 out of 5 people think the 5th is an idiot

 

You flange the metal on the car and when you put the replacement panel on you place it in the flange but leave a little room so you can weld in the flange area.So when you weld the replacement panel on you can grind the weld down closer to be level with the two panels so you dont have a really high spot and less bondo.

 

Ah, okay, so it seems like flanging the panel isn't as "professional" a way to do the job?

Like I said, I plan to butt-weld the panels up; is the general agreement that buttwelding's better?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

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2E,87 Formula 350, 4 other Camaro's & 3 Firebirds to fix, Drive, or sell.

 

The key to keeping the panel from distorting,, butt weld or flanged, is keeping the panel cool where you spot weld it,,either by an air gun or keep a rag & bucket of water nearby.

 

The pros ive talked too all say that butt welding is the best way.

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Black 90 IROC, L98, A4, 323 gear. SuperRamed 406 in the works!