I wondered if anyone has used this at all. I was thinking of doing the floor underneath the car with it. Black or grey? any thoughts?

 

Plenty of POR 15 threads. Give a quick search and you will find plenty of threads.

 

Thanks

 

I use it for everything. All my suspension parts are coated in POR, my engine is done with the POR engine enamel kit. Misc brackets and odds and ends are done in POR as well.

Great stuff. Dries better and harder in humid climate. Usually takes 4 hours to tack up 8 to dry enough to pick up. Hard as nails. Once its on its not coming off, trust me. Hammer and pick to get it off the header gasket surface area, and had to re-tap 2 spark plug holes.

That includes your fingers and hands. 3 days to come off with normal skin pealing. No solvent will remove it once dried. Laquer thinner will remove it while its still wet.

 

It's a nice product if your using it on a rusty surface... I srayed my whole underbody with satin black POR15. when it started flaking off, I took it back down and used truck bedliner... The problem is that it dose not adhere well to surfaces that have no rust (or minimal rust).



I still plan to use it in some places anyway... give it a try you might like it!

the truck bed liner is way better!

 

That looks solid as hell. Where do you get por15 anyways? Online or are there stores that you can buy it at?

 

It sticks like, evil, if someones got it flaking off they didnt prep worth squat.

Blaming poor work on a product that you didnt use properly doesnt make any sense.

Keep in mind if you are going to topcoat it that you should follow the directions to a T, and spray your first coat of primer while its still tacky, i've done engine bays with a base of por-15, then hok epoxy primer, tough awesome long lasting foundation.

 

Wish i could find a body in that condition. Geeezum

 

It adheres fine. Instructions clearly say if no rust use prep n ready or similar product.

 

yes, everyone here is right!~
if no rust, you have to use a special prep that induces some flash rust to the part the paint is being applied to.

I cut no corners on my car and followed the instructions to the T. POR was properly applied, it was just not the best choice for what I was doing. There are tons of products better suited for this type of thing. There are hundreds if not thousands of ppl that had the same problem as me (google it).

I'm not saying its a bad product, but if you don't have rust... why induce rust just to make POR15 work? POR15 is not automotive paint and that's exactly how I used it.

Is it a good product? yes
Is it for everything? no

It should only be used in the places where it's needed (spot spray in battery tray and other rust prone areas). use "zero rust", tractor paint, SEM, Eastwood or something else on the under body. POR will stick nice to suspension parts and is hard enough to be a powder coat alternative.

 

you can't be talking about me. I spent more time under this car than most spend driving. the end result is my proof buddy. take that trash talk elsewhere.

I'm not bashing the product or anyone else's results. The POR DID STICK in most places. I care about how my belly looks and wanted it perfect. So I sanded the trouble area's back down + epoxy prime.

Here is white over POR15 + LS1 fuel tank and braided fuel lines

 

I agree with this post. I know of a better product for about the same price. it's called Cassis saver form maganet paints-look it up. I have used both and it's better than POR15.

 

Ive sprayed it over painted surfaces and had it stick great, lots of times people think they'e prepped things right but missed something, not sure what to tell you.

 

Sorry man but you didn't follow directions. Using a prep product does not induce a "flash rust" I have never heard of such a thing. That statement means you have not used any prep and ready type product.

The prep products acid etch the metal and provide a chemical bond between the paint and the zinc phosphate coating on the metal.

This does not only go for POR15 but also any other paint used directly over bare metal. You have heard of self etching epoxy primers, Yes these are water proof, corosion proof, and adhere to bare metal.

Try using an auto paint, The same thing would have happened if you used any type of paint. Yes the POR15 is not good for everything that's why the market has a myriad of products for us to choose from. If POR15 worked for everything thats all there would be.

 

whatever... say and use what you want. like i said, I'm not bashing the product. it's not even close to the best thing to use on an under body, I will stand by that.

There are better products that are cheaper, it has been proven time after time. Nothing you say can change that. If there is no rust on a surface, don't use POR... Use something else.

I'm not taking any of this personal. Just be mindful of the person you are calling out.

 

Yes their are better products for that that will work better as well. That's why I was also wondering why you would use it for that. Its way to expensive, and not necessary.

None the less you have 750+ posts so I am sure you know how it works around here. When someone has knowledge and or experience with something they post it. When someone doesnt like something they post it. When someone see that something was done wrong they post it. Its how a forum works.

I posted that information to answer any questions anyone might have. If POR15 is applied to a non prepped bare metal surface it will not adhere well. The #1 best thing to do when applying por15 is apply it over light surface rust hence the name "PAINT OVER RUST" the second and only other method that should be used with POR15 is get the surface taken down to bare metal and then use prep and ready to acid etch and leave a coating of zinc phosphate before painting. PPG DX520 is also great for this prep and can be found at almost any auto body supply by the gallon.

 

I've been told that the parts that flaked was due to UV exposure... this car has been on jackstands for over a year. I didn't know POR should be top coated because it was on the underside of the car, that's why I put the white down and eventually some bedliner.

After applying the prep, the bare metal surface started to look like what I thought was rust (zinc)... I'm no painter and didn't know what to expect. I now see that calling it rust was not accurate, but still.... I spent a good bit of money on the POR+Prep and didn't expect it to come off at all (it never came off my hands, I had to wait till it hardened and peeled it off).

 

acid etching with a Zinc phosphate residue has a white residue. Rusts color forms are orange/brown/yellow/red.

Yes POR15 is not UV resistant at all. You must live In a really sunny place that uv can reach under your car lol.

Any one who uses POR in the future, or any paint make sure to carefully read all instructions on the data sheets and or can. If you take a look at POR15 specifically, and or its website you will see a large note not only saying that POR15 is not UV resistant but that its specifically sensitive to ultra violet light. POR15 markets a couple of special clears that work with their coatings, not only are they cost effective, they happen to work very well.

Bedliners as well as epoxy coating are extremely UV, and chemical resistant. As well as super thick and super tough when exposed to debris. That' why many use them un-traditionally for undercoating. Traditional undercoat is soft and rubberized, while it deadens sound and road noise better it gets dirty and impacted with road grime and chemicals, as well as hard to clean. But on the flip side its very very cheap and does what its supposed to protect your belly.