I am repainting the interior of my 69 Camaro while the seats, dash, and wires are out. There is some rust.

I have read lots of things about POR-15 but Zero-RUST has been recommended as just as good and cheaper.

Does anyone have any experience with Zero-Rust or comparision to POR-15?

ZeroRust site: http://www.zerorust.com/index.htm

POR-15 site: http: //www.por15.com/

 

im intrested in this too...
and how do you get the old stuff off the bottom, i have a 91 n pretty good condition

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Red:
If you don't receive any responses to your question, go to www.autobodystore.com and check both the forum archives and current postings for several discussions on this very subject.
Len Stuart's site (also in NJ) is an excellent info source on body & paint topics.
Be certain to check up on Isocyanates when deciding, as many DIYer's are unaware of their dangers.
HTH
WK Irish

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See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com

 

Thanks for the warnings about isocyanates! I guess I'll be using POR-15 only where I can apply it with a brush and where I won't sand. I'll use ZeroRust on everything else.

Of course, none of the protective stuff we put on our cars is good for us. Kinda makes me wonder about applying ANYTHING, including ZeroRust. Maybe I should just get one of those supplied air breathers, etc...

Also, I've read that POR-15 is stronger than ZeroRust in a few message boards, but I haven't seen any definative face-off of the two products.

 

Michael:
There has been some discussion about the safety of even brushing moisture cured urethanes like POR 15, so do your due diligence before proceeding.
As to strengths/weaknesses:
ZR, at 3 mils (3 one thousands) dft (dry film thickness) produced 2000+ hours in a commonly used test by paint producers (salt spray cabinet test) and competing products fell way short of that.
For ease of use, safety, unlimited shelf life, repairability (if necessary on down the road) AND cost, ZR is a very viable alternative for controlling rust and corrosion.
ZR's major advantage for DIYer's, is that a media blast (whether sand or otherwise) is NOT a requirement, making a less than white metal restoration job realistic and attainable.
Check us out.
WK Irish

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See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com

 

Well, time under salt spray is good and all, but I'm more concerned about strength and resistance to hard wear. I'd like to see a hammer test (POR-15 vs Zero-Rust).

Most of the stuff I planned to paint with POR-15 is on the underside of the car, where rocks chip away at it.

 

Well, you could always give it a coat of Zero-Rust, then cover that in Por-15 to keep rock chips away.

 

Yeah, except you pretty much need to apply the POR-15 directly to bare metal. The Zero-Rust can be applied over POR-15, though...

But, the whole thing is I'd like to just buy one product that isn't a biohazard, sprays on, prevents rust, and resists chipping.

 

Michael:
We're aware of several guys who have done/are doing side-by-side tests of various rust control products and the former have consistently reported ZR is tough and does in fact resist chipping.
I can harp all day long on its merits, but there's only one way to prove/disprove what we know about ZR. Perhaps some of this forums ZR users will chime in re: their experience so you don't have to take just my word.
WK Irish

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See ya' on the net at www.zerorust.com