Have trouble getting the seams on the hatch correct. I hatch lip is over hanging the tail lights about a 1/4" on the drivers side. I pulled the plastic cover off the top inside of the hatch, I see around 6 13mm bolts I loosend to try to make an adjustment but no luck, any ideas?????
I think the back glass is ok, I more think the adjustment needs to be made in the lid that the spoiler mounts too.

 

I just did mine, and I will tell you how I had to do it. There is some adjustment in those bolts inside the car. But in order to get the hatch to sit where you want it you have to take off the strut supports. The struts are constantly pushing out on the hatch and that is why they shift out like yours. Once you have the struts off, loosen up those 4 bolts, shift the hatch where you want it and then tighten it down.
If you can't get enough adjustment to get things right there is also a chance that your hinges are bent. If that is the case you need to remove the hatch and tweak the hinges bit.
Good luck!

 

thank you

 

There is another thread here and on the TTA board about this.
You have to remove the decklid from the glass and reseal it for best results.
There is also some decent room for adjustment on the hatch glass to hinge bolts and nuts.
DON't bend the hinges! the shims under the hinges are what helps set the proper glass-to-seal distance. There isnt enuff adjustment on the hinge to body bolts to make it worth the time to reseal all those parts so they don't leak.

The factory service manual has the info you need. It won't be perfect on the pass side (due to the quarter panel being messed up at the stamping plant) but you can get it darn close.

This is the closest pass side that Ive ever seen or fixed. The dr side was just as good.

 

My hatch was taken off for paint and was not aligned properly. I did have enough movement in the body to hinge bolts to move it around. I didn't trust shifting the bolts on the glass to hinge bolts for fear that I might break the glass. I was able to get the glass back to where it belonged without removing the decklid from the glass.

 

I was just working on it...I just was working from the hinge and now the passenger side is as good as that pic you posted. The drivers side was a heavy 1/4" out, now its about 1/8". I removed the support and had my wife push the hatch toward the front of the car. I want to have one of my friends stop over tomorrow being they will be able to push harder. I'd really like to tighten up that 1/8" on the drivers side more if possible.

When you guys say adjust with the 4 hinge bolts are you guys referring to the hinge bolts under the headliner/ attached the the sheet metal or the hinge bolts attached to the glass itself???

 

Hinge to glass. The glass has bigger holes for adjustment.
IIRC, The hinge to body bolt holes have one hole thats square on each side. Thats used to properly locate the hinges to the body.

Also make sure the black trim around the glass is firmly installed up at the hinge areas.
The hatch struts are pushing the complete hatch glass and decklid rearward 24-7 soo over time most of the decklids and glass will move rearward.

 

I had to replace my hatch glass due to a mowing accident, luckily I already had a parts car. I can get the rear of the hatch to line up, but my problem is that the front section of the body part of the hatch sits below the body line. I went to the local dealer and he gave me a part diagram and it shows a long plastic spacer that goes on the back edge of the glass(has been discontinued) it also leaks where the glass and hatch meet I've tried silicone twice, but still leaking. Any ideas?

 

Great thread info. I have over 3/8 gap from back of lid from rear fenders where the hatch is setting back further than the fender. It is so far out of alignment my hatch will not lock. It's on a 87 firbird. I will read all info on threads and make ajustments tomorrow. Thanks. Very helpful. Will post results.