anyone know where i can find step by step instruction on how to sand and prime. I'm priming and sanding my car but not painting. ALso if someone can give me directions first hand or a website would be goo.d Its my first time and i want to do it right

 

I don't know about web sites,, but I can give you a(mabye humorous) general overview of what you need to do,, maybe others can add to it,, (keep in mind this is also a semi-kinda-really rough overview way I like to do this,, everyone is different)

1st,,,, find an ugly vehicle in need of a sanding



I think this fits that category,,


#2,,,, Let friend go wild with a palm sander (arrow) and throw a few back watching,,



Kidding,, if the paint is still original or hasn't been painted many times (like that truck) and if the body doesn't need any work, you can just take some 320-400 grit sand paper and rough down the paint using a sanding block w/a sponge sanding pad in between the paper & block for flat surfaces and just wrap the pad alone for irregular spots (rounds of fenders, fender lips). Wet sand the paint until it appears dull and hazy dry(wet sanding saves alot of paper during this process).


3,,,,, get 50 cans of $0.98 primer from wal-mart grab another half case of liquid 'looks good enough' (arrow)& start firing on the primer (make sure car is dry 1st tho),,,,



Ok,,, actually,,, don't. If you have a paint gun or access to one,,, buy a good primer/surfacer (PPG, DuPont, etc) unless you're cheap then you can get some Evercoat or one of the many others. Shoot 2-3 even coats (letting them dry or flash in between coats).


4,,,,Throw a few more back waiting for primer to dry and viola !!,,,,



admire what a good job you've done


I don't know about sites that will have step by step instructions,, but there are many books available. http://www.eastwoodco.com/ is a place that has just about everything for bodywork/restoration most hobbist could want including videos & books,,, check it out,, you might find something there more of use than what I posted


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My Firebird It Lives Again!!
Your Car Here?
Part Diagrams

 

I'm looking forward to lots of the "looks good enough" liquid when I prep mine.

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

Try aircraft stripper. Dont buy the spray on, get the brush on.
Brush it on and wait about 20 mins and come along with a putty knife and there ya go, all paint is gone, down to the original sheet metal. You may have to reseal before priming but when ready for paint you know there is not years of old paint and oxidation under the new paint. AND IT IS SOO MUCH EASIER THEN SANDING!!!!!!

 

unless your car has been painted 5 times dont use that stripper,its not called stripper its called lazy gel.You dont need it down to bare metal ,the final product will look no better.make sure you sand the ground effects down past the first old coat of paint atleast.These and the front end need special care if you want the paint to stay on.

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~mike~86 IROC-Z

 

Yea I guess if you are not spending good money on a paint job or plan on keeping the car for a while then there is no reason to go to the bare metal.
1.Any Oxidation that has occured to the old paint is still there, just now under a new coat of paint.
2.If there is any surface rust that is under the paint that to would be missed just by sanding the clear coat.

In my opinion and experience if you are planning on spending good money on a car you plan to have a while, go to the metal. Lazy Gel, never heard that one. Why kill yourself sanding and end up doing it 3 times to get where you can in one step. That is the part that got me. Call it Lazy, I call it smart. It is not as though you are sacrificing quality, better yet you are improving it.

 

Also, please do not user Rustoleum or Krylon primer. All that does is make it harder for the painter. He will have to strip that crap primer before he paints.

 

If you are going to do it yourself follow this guys advice. Even though it is for a land rover the techniques work on any car. I've used basically the same techniques for my T/A with excellent results.
www.roverlanders.bc.ca/faq/LRpaintMain.html

 

Paint sripper is not practical in every case.

 

Especially on plastic bumpers. Careful!!



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89CamaroRS
Power Rating: 1.21 Jigowatts
Mods:Flux Capacitor
Future Plans: Time Travel

 

Yes. I've seen many "homemade" paint jobs go bad because they used the wrong stripper on the plastic parts. The paint will need to be reapplied yearly because it will flake right off. This is the best sight so far on how to do body work and how to paint for the novice (gives methods to see things that a novice's eye is likely to go over)

http://www.maserati-rc.org/techtips/Techtip035.htm



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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 Trans Am T-tops
4-bolt main 350, performer intake, headers, Holley 650, T-5, hayes clutch, dual elec. fans and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
13.98 @ 101

 

Use high quality products. Scuff EVERYTHING. If it's a dark color and you can aford it,let the painter or a pro sand the primer. It takes alot of experience (getting burned) before you learn what will show and what won't. If you have to strip anything just do the hood. (off the car) There is special plasic parts stripper if you need it. When you tape it up to prime it tape right on the edges so you don't get primer on the inside edges of the fenders, hood, door jams etc. Put at least 12 inches of paper from the tape inward. I usually cover the entire engine from fender edge to fender edge. Don't use newspaper. Find a body supply store with helpful people. If you burn through to bare metal sanding (bigger than a silver dollar) put epoxy or etch on it before priming. It's best to epoxy the entire car before priming. For best results (long lasting, user friendly, good looking) nothing beats PPG. Good luck.

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Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
72 Vista Cruiser 455
90 Olds Trofeo
80 K-10 w/snow plow
Painter @ Chevy dealer
GM junkie

 

Well it's quite obvious that there are several different opinions about how to prep for paint and whether or not to use stripper. One question that I have, and nobody has addressed, is how to neutralize the stripper after it's use so that the residue won't destroy an otherwise good paint job. I had thought of washing it down good with a pressure washer but, do I really want to apply water to bare metal?? Lastly, where can I find that special stripper for plastic and what is it called? My bumper covers are covered in multiple layers of heavy and chipped multi colored paint. I believe that my only option with them is stripping to the plastic. Thanks!

 

Kleen strip plastic parts stipper. Take the covers off the car. Yellow can, bulldog trademark. With multiple layers figure 1 can per cover per coat.

Water. Then soap and water. No need to inject the water in the pores with a pressure washer. Just rinse really good and wash normally. Let the water shed off. Don't worry 'bout it.

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Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
72 Vista Cruiser 455
90 Olds Trofeo
80 K-10 w/snow plow
Painter @ Chevy dealer
GM junkie

 

I say just sand the plastic/fiberglass stuff, they can hold the stripper in their pores and the paint won't adhere well to them.if you do it right you won't have a problem, but I say why chance it.