If the electric pull down assy stops "pulling down", will the hatch still be fully functional? Meaning, will it open and close FULLY w/o problems? Also, it's getting slower and slower each day, and I open it quite a bit noe b/c of the NOS. If I just pull the fuse for it so it doesn't get used as much, would that be OK?

 

No, it will latch, but will be an inch and a half from being fully closed. If it stops in the full down position, you'd have to slam it to get it to close and the pieces inside are only plastic and can't handle daily slamming.

 

Try greasing the track with some white lithium and see if that helps.

 

So there's NO way to use your hatch w/o this motor being invloved!!! WTF is that??!! Major design flaw IMO. So, if someone's hatch motor stops working and it starts pouring rain........they're screwed??? C'mon, I don't think GM would be that dumb. What if I took the parts that affect this completely out of the car? Is there anything of this nature I could do?
ANYONE ELSE...IDEAS??????

 

I was planning on doing something that could be a possible solution to a problem like this :

I have an 82 T/a with a regular key hatch release, and the motor assembly out of an 86 t/a. i dont really want the motor pull down, but i would love to have the solenoid release wired into the hatch release button in the dash. Is there any way i could do this? I know the wiring would be cake, but actually mounting the mechanism would be tough, getting it to work right. i dont want to swap lock cylinders because i dont have the keys to the power hatch cylinder. Has anyone done this or even have any ideas on how to do it? Btw, i do have the bracket to mount the motor, i chiseled it off the 86 before it was scrapped.

Thanks
slick

[This message has been edited by slickrock55 (edited April 11, 2001).]

 

I think you missed part of the answer there chevyboy...as Jza said, it will latch...but won't pull all the way down.

Does the hatch release properly and are your struts strong enough to push the hatch up when it releases?

I recommend testing it to figure out WHY it's broke...

If you have the hatch up and press on the little switch at #1 location, does the motor hum?
If yes,...probably just a stripped 7 dollar gear from GM..part number...i forget.
If no,...probably 1 of several things...fuse? power? motor?

If you look at the switch at #2 location with the cover off like this, is the switch up or down? If up, this is normal, if down...flip it up and test #1 again.
As Jza said...if you slam the hatch alot to get it closed, you will break the plastic housing (almost seen under the #2 switch and left of the motor---has a slight blue tint).
If this doesn't help, send me an e-mail detailing more of your symptoms.
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Duffster (age 31)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),Torker II intake, Edelbrock 1406,600cfm w/vacuum secondaries,Accel HEI Supercoil/Cap/Rotor Sparkin',84' 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
Duffster_Camaro@HOTMAIL.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.

[This message has been edited by Duffster (edited April 12, 2001).]

 

WOW!!, thanks for that info Duffster. That's some good stuff.
However, it does work just fine (knock on wood) but I don't want to "beat the crap out of it" b/c I'm in and out of there all the time b/c of the NOS. I just wanted to prolong its life by not having to use it so much

 

Remove the plastic trim cover. Disconnect the wiring then remove the 3 bolts holding in the hatch motor assy. You will probably find two things. First, all the threaded holes that attach the housing assy to the frame have broken. Every hatch motor assy I have seen has either cracked or completely broken mount holes. It can be repaired, but it is easier to fix if it hasn't completely broken yet. I took a thin sheet of aluminum and epoxied it to the face of the assy to reinforce it. Drilling out the hole locations before epoxying in place. Screw the screws into place while it cures to keep the epoxy from filling in the holes. The second thing you may find is the moulded plastic guides that ride in the track have cracked and broken into many pieces. There are no new pieces available from the dealer as it is part of the assy and has no separate p/n. You can get another hatch motor assy from a pick-a-part and salvage the best parts to rebuild yours. I am going to try and make new plastic guuide pieces myself from nylon 6/6 sheets. Good luck, Lon.

This tech article may help:
http://www.sc3gfb.org/resources/hatchmtr.html

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90 RS Convertible
http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
http://www.taskerinc.com/gs3/profiles/Lon_profile.htm

[This message has been edited by lonsal (edited April 15, 2001).]