Center Console Button
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,030
Likes: 0
From: Naples,Fl.
Are you talking about the Power Window Switch? Why not just get a new one?
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<marquee>'87 Trans Am:
(Engine)305 TPI,180 Degree Thermostat,JET Fan Switch,TB Bypass,Accel 300+ 8.8 Racing Wires,Accel Super Coil,Bosch Platinium Plugs,Custom Ram Air with K&N,Removed Emissions Equipment & Cat.(Stereo)Full Kenwood Excelon System Member at kyfbodies.org</marquee>
[This message has been edited by jobryan26 (edited May 13, 2001).]
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<marquee>'87 Trans Am:
(Engine)305 TPI,180 Degree Thermostat,JET Fan Switch,TB Bypass,Accel 300+ 8.8 Racing Wires,Accel Super Coil,Bosch Platinium Plugs,Custom Ram Air with K&N,Removed Emissions Equipment & Cat.(Stereo)Full Kenwood Excelon System Member at kyfbodies.org</marquee>
[This message has been edited by jobryan26 (edited May 13, 2001).]
Member
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 322
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Tx
Car: 2001 Camaro Z28/1995 Camaro Z28
Engine: just a little 5.7(LS1-320/340 RW)
Transmission: SMOOOOOOTH T-56/Auto. . .
Axle/Gears: 3.42 and 2.73
new or used switches run less than 8 bucks...
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Duffster (age 32)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),Torker II intake, Edelbrock 1406,600cfm w/vacuum secondaries,Accel HEI Supercoil/Cap/Rotor Sparkin',84' POS 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
DuffsterCamaro@HOME.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.
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Duffster (age 32)
BEAT DOWN HARD 88' Camaro Sport Coupe,
1978 Caprice Classic 305 motor havin'(WITH NO COMPUTER),Torker II intake, Edelbrock 1406,600cfm w/vacuum secondaries,Accel HEI Supercoil/Cap/Rotor Sparkin',84' POS 700R4 Tranny usin', 84' Z-28 Nose clip wearin',
84' Z-28 Hood covered,
AND THE TIRES:
245/60-16 Firehawk SS20 on Firbird rim(1-passenger rear),
235/55-15 BF Goodrich's on CompTA's on Z28 rims(2-on front),
235/60-16 Pirelli P600 w/a curb check or 3 also on Firebird rim(1-drivers rear),
REAR HATCH MASTER OF ALL!!!
DuffsterCamaro@HOME.COM
Owner of the Camaro 0 out of 10 Third-genners approve of, no longer part of the non-existent Iowa crew.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,295
Likes: 0
From: VA
Car: '91 Z28
Engine: L98 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 323's
You're talking about the release for the console lid, aren't you? If you ask GM, they'll sell you a whole lid assy. If you ask a bone yard, you can get one... Try thirdgenparts - Jim's put those on his auctions before...
KAM
KAM
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
From: Morgantown, WV
The factory spring is a curved piece of metal that normally holds the button in the out position and flexes when you push in the button. Mine also broke.
I tried to make another one from a piece of metal I cut from a hose clamp. It didn't work and I'd suggest not trying it yourself.
Why does it have to be this type of spring? It doesn't. Just use a regular coil spring.
Find one that is a small enough diameter to fit in the space and strong enough to hold out the button. The spring should ideally be one that is meant to be compressed (instead of stretched) or you could use the other kind and just stretch it out so that it is relaxed in the uncompressed state. Then glue one end of the spring to either the button or the plastic inside part of the lid. Reassemble and your problem is fixed.
I did this about 9 months ago and it is still working fine. No more rattling button.
I tried to make another one from a piece of metal I cut from a hose clamp. It didn't work and I'd suggest not trying it yourself.
Why does it have to be this type of spring? It doesn't. Just use a regular coil spring.
Find one that is a small enough diameter to fit in the space and strong enough to hold out the button. The spring should ideally be one that is meant to be compressed (instead of stretched) or you could use the other kind and just stretch it out so that it is relaxed in the uncompressed state. Then glue one end of the spring to either the button or the plastic inside part of the lid. Reassemble and your problem is fixed.
I did this about 9 months ago and it is still working fine. No more rattling button.
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