Hood wont close.
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tinton Falls NJ
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Car: 1992 Z28 Z03
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Hood wont close.
Hey i have a hood on my Z28 that will not close unless i play around with the styker i believe its called? The piece on the hood it self How can i adjust it? Just tighten or loosen the bolts on it holding it to the hood? I plan on fixing it today so any help would be great before i try messing with it and breaking it.
Thanks
-Wes
Thanks
-Wes
#2
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Car: 86 T/A - 70 Z28/RS
Engine: Broke - 350
Transmission: 700R4 - M22
Axle/Gears: G80, 2.73 - ZQ9 G80 4.10
Re: Hood wont close.
The striker piece is the part connected to the hood and yes you can loosen the bolts to adjust it. Covering the striker in shoe polish can help align it because you can see where it is rubbing and it will wipe off once you are done.
Also you might want to remove the latch mechanism and clean it really good. The grease is probably hardened from age and is filled with dirt. Once clean, put some new grease on it and work it in then reinstall it. You might have to adjust this up or down for the right hood height along with checking the height of the hood bump stops located in the front two corners. Once the hood hits these the hood should be latched. Adjust the bumps for proper hood to fender height and then adjust the latch.
Also you might want to remove the latch mechanism and clean it really good. The grease is probably hardened from age and is filled with dirt. Once clean, put some new grease on it and work it in then reinstall it. You might have to adjust this up or down for the right hood height along with checking the height of the hood bump stops located in the front two corners. Once the hood hits these the hood should be latched. Adjust the bumps for proper hood to fender height and then adjust the latch.
#3
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Car: 1992 Z28 Z03
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Hood wont close.
The striker piece is the part connected to the hood and yes you can loosen the bolts to adjust it. Covering the striker in shoe polish can help align it because you can see where it is rubbing and it will wipe off once you are done.
Also you might want to remove the latch mechanism and clean it really good. The grease is probably hardened from age and is filled with dirt. Once clean, put some new grease on it and work it in then reinstall it. You might have to adjust this up or down for the right hood height along with checking the height of the hood bump stops located in the front two corners. Once the hood hits these the hood should be latched. Adjust the bumps for proper hood to fender height and then adjust the latch.
Also you might want to remove the latch mechanism and clean it really good. The grease is probably hardened from age and is filled with dirt. Once clean, put some new grease on it and work it in then reinstall it. You might have to adjust this up or down for the right hood height along with checking the height of the hood bump stops located in the front two corners. Once the hood hits these the hood should be latched. Adjust the bumps for proper hood to fender height and then adjust the latch.
#5
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Car: 1992 Z28 Z03
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Hood wont close.
Once the hood latch goes bad, the best (only?) solution is to get a new one. I bought one from 1A Auto http://www.1aauto.com/1A/HoodLatches...43/367123/1992 and that took care of all the issues I was having.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#6
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Car: 86 T/A - 70 Z28/RS
Engine: Broke - 350
Transmission: 700R4 - M22
Axle/Gears: G80, 2.73 - ZQ9 G80 4.10
Re: Hood wont close.
It all depends on if it's worn out or not. I've had a few that were acting up and a good cleaning and adding some white lithium grease to it fixed them.
I forgot something else, make sure the release cable isn't sticking. It can keep the release lever from returning all the way which will not allow the latch to lock. If it is gummed up you can clean it and lubricate the cable. If the cable is kinked you might have to replace it. DO NOT USE WD-40 to lubricate the cable. Sprays like that help collect dirt and debris that will cause the cable to start sticking again.
I forgot something else, make sure the release cable isn't sticking. It can keep the release lever from returning all the way which will not allow the latch to lock. If it is gummed up you can clean it and lubricate the cable. If the cable is kinked you might have to replace it. DO NOT USE WD-40 to lubricate the cable. Sprays like that help collect dirt and debris that will cause the cable to start sticking again.
#7
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Car: 1992 Z28 Z03
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4.11
Re: Hood wont close.
It all depends on if it's worn out or not. I've had a few that were acting up and a good cleaning and adding some white lithium grease to it fixed them.
I forgot something else, make sure the release cable isn't sticking. It can keep the release lever from returning all the way which will not allow the latch to lock. If it is gummed up you can clean it and lubricate the cable. If the cable is kinked you might have to replace it. DO NOT USE WD-40 to lubricate the cable. Sprays like that help collect dirt and debris that will cause the cable to start sticking again.
I forgot something else, make sure the release cable isn't sticking. It can keep the release lever from returning all the way which will not allow the latch to lock. If it is gummed up you can clean it and lubricate the cable. If the cable is kinked you might have to replace it. DO NOT USE WD-40 to lubricate the cable. Sprays like that help collect dirt and debris that will cause the cable to start sticking again.
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#9
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Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: Hood wont close.
It all depends on if it's worn out or not. I've had a few that were acting up and a good cleaning and adding some white lithium grease to it fixed them.
I forgot something else, make sure the release cable isn't sticking. It can keep the release lever from returning all the way which will not allow the latch to lock. If it is gummed up you can clean it and lubricate the cable. If the cable is kinked you might have to replace it. DO NOT USE WD-40 to lubricate the cable. Sprays like that help collect dirt and debris that will cause the cable to start sticking again.
I forgot something else, make sure the release cable isn't sticking. It can keep the release lever from returning all the way which will not allow the latch to lock. If it is gummed up you can clean it and lubricate the cable. If the cable is kinked you might have to replace it. DO NOT USE WD-40 to lubricate the cable. Sprays like that help collect dirt and debris that will cause the cable to start sticking again.
#10
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Car: 86 T/A - 70 Z28/RS
Engine: Broke - 350
Transmission: 700R4 - M22
Axle/Gears: G80, 2.73 - ZQ9 G80 4.10
Re: Hood wont close.
I didn't mention not to use on the latch, I posted not to use it on the cable. Dirt and grim build up inside the cable shroud is hard to clean out. There are better products out there for this. Same with lock cylinders.
WD-40 works but not recommended for things that are very hard to service.
WD-40 works but not recommended for things that are very hard to service.
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