Convert from pulldown hatch to simple latch style?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Convert from pulldown hatch to simple latch style?
Is there any way to convert my hatch from the automatic pulldown thing, to the old style where you just shut the trunk? Doesnt sound like it could be too hard? Can I just get the hardware from the old style and swap it? Also, is the old style electric also, but just the release operation? Mine has started to rattle around, and I am beginning to doubt its lifespan. The motor sounds like it would rather die than pull the hatch down!
gm put the pull down latch on the cars to keep people from slamming the hatch down and having glass all over the back of the car.....it is very easy to shatter the hatch glass, i would stick with automatic pull down, just go buy a new ac delco motor i beleive ac delco is the company gm used and still uses.......correct me if im wrong
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,366
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From: Atlanta, GA, US of A
Car: 94 Z28
Engine: LT1 w/ headers, catback, CAI, tune
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.23s
I got fed up the stupid POS pulldown and just took the whole latch/pulldown assembly out and converted it to a standard latch basically. I just removed the pulldown motor and moved the whole assembly to the full down position (actually about a 1/8 inch above full down). Then I drilled about a 1/4" hole through each rail or whatever you call em and put a bolt/nut through each hole. Blammo, no more pulldown crap. There is some room for adjustment when you remount the whole assembly since it attaches with bolts through 3 large square holes. So you get about a 1/4" up and down to move the adjust the thing so the hatch closes without too much force but shuts far enough down. Then tighten up those bolts for good and you're done.
That might not make a whole lot of sense, but just take the whole assembly out of the car and you'll see what I'm saying. Only took like 30 minutes from start to finish and I rid myself of the stupid pulldown.
I did this on both my 87Z and my old 86 IROC that is now my brothers. Neither one worked anymore, the IROC's wouldn't pull down at all anymore, leaving the hatch too far up, and the 87Zs was stuck too far down. Had to slam the hell out of it to get it to close.
Got rid of the pulldowns easy enough by doing this. It's a little harder than a regular car to shut the hatch, but it's no biggie.
[This message has been edited by Ray87Z (edited July 10, 2001).]
That might not make a whole lot of sense, but just take the whole assembly out of the car and you'll see what I'm saying. Only took like 30 minutes from start to finish and I rid myself of the stupid pulldown.
I did this on both my 87Z and my old 86 IROC that is now my brothers. Neither one worked anymore, the IROC's wouldn't pull down at all anymore, leaving the hatch too far up, and the 87Zs was stuck too far down. Had to slam the hell out of it to get it to close.
Got rid of the pulldowns easy enough by doing this. It's a little harder than a regular car to shut the hatch, but it's no biggie.
[This message has been edited by Ray87Z (edited July 10, 2001).]
I had an 84 and you had to slam it hard to get it shut and the glas never broke. If it was that week they would never have put it in there. In my 91 the motor goes continious so I just unplugged it and use it as a reg style hatch. The power release still works.
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
When the one in my 88 took a dump (in the open position
) I swapped it with the one in my 86. I had to disassemble the motor, rotate the assembly until it was in the closed position, then reinstall the motor. I didn't have to drill any holes for it to stay put. I installed it in my 86 and have been slamming it since.
But wouldn't you know it, before the 88 even left the damned garage, the motor from my 86 died in the open position too.
Now the car's sitting outside with the hatch up 2".

Oh, by the way. This glass is a bit more rigid than people give it credit for. I had my speaker enclosure sitting up on the high area, and the sub was inverted, so the magnet was sticking up. The stick holding up my hatch (the struts must be made by the same company as the motor) kicked out and the glass fell right onto the magnet of my sub with a pretty loud whack. No break though.
------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
) I swapped it with the one in my 86. I had to disassemble the motor, rotate the assembly until it was in the closed position, then reinstall the motor. I didn't have to drill any holes for it to stay put. I installed it in my 86 and have been slamming it since.But wouldn't you know it, before the 88 even left the damned garage, the motor from my 86 died in the open position too.
Now the car's sitting outside with the hatch up 2".

Oh, by the way. This glass is a bit more rigid than people give it credit for. I had my speaker enclosure sitting up on the high area, and the sub was inverted, so the magnet was sticking up. The stick holding up my hatch (the struts must be made by the same company as the motor) kicked out and the glass fell right onto the magnet of my sub with a pretty loud whack. No break though.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
I guess the main problem here is the little plastic guides being worn down. It causes the hatch to rattle. Maybe I can lower it down like someone had mentioned, and put some kind of thick epoxy in the grooves. Thanks guys.
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 323
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From: mayfield, OH
Car: 82 Trans am
Engine: Twin turbo 350
Transmission: T-56
What if i wanted to change from an automatic pulldown, to a regular closing hatch, but still with the hatch release solenoid in use. Is there any way to not use the pulldown without tearing it apart or disabling the hatch release?
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Just get a new hatch motor. Having had an 83 camaro without the pulldown, and a handfull of thirdgens with it, I highly suggest you stick with the newer setup. The non-pulldown is a bitch. Makes the car look like a total POS when you're sitting in a parking lot slamming the hatch over and over because it won't latch.
Without the pulldown you have to slam the hatch like you would a door. Problem is that the hatch pushes a lot of air, in effect trying to squeeze more air into the inside of the car. If you have the windows down or the doors open you're fine, otherwise slam, slam, slam, slam, slam... you get the idea.
Without the pulldown you have to slam the hatch like you would a door. Problem is that the hatch pushes a lot of air, in effect trying to squeeze more air into the inside of the car. If you have the windows down or the doors open you're fine, otherwise slam, slam, slam, slam, slam... you get the idea.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,817
Likes: 1
From: Plano, TX
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
The 4th gen's dont seem to have any problems with their manual latch. I'll have to take a look at one to see if I can adapt it.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
There are four common failure modes. 1) gearnut broken. Available from the dealer, GM p/n 20160587. 2) The motor is fried. Good luck. Pick-A-Part or new. I haven't researched if available separately or you have to buy the entire new assy for around, gulp $400. 3) The plastic motor mount housing has broken where the screws attach it to the frame. I've had success with reinfircing these with thin aluminum sheet stock and epoxying it to reinforce it. Much easier to fix BEFORE it breaks completely though. But I HAVE fixed one in this condition as well by epoxying in a steel piece I drilled and tapped for the screws. 4) The plastic molded guides break. GM didn't even assign a p/n for these weak pieces. I've made new replacement pieces for these and have them available. So, three of the four common failure modes now have a pretty inexpensive fix for them. As I see it, anything mechanical will eventually wear out or break. It is just previously we didn't have some of the parts available to repair these. Good luck, Lon.
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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 931
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From: Mpls, MN USA
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 427 BBC
Transmission: T400
I did the complete swap on mine which requires chiseling/grinding off the spot welds on the sheet metal bracket then welding on the new one. You can sort of see it on the "battery in back" pictures on my page.
Miles
------------------
88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
Currently installing 3.73's into my 9 bolt (YES,it is a 9 bolt & YES they are 3.73's, not 3.70. 4.11's to follow soon
)
www.koolmeister.com
Miles
------------------
88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
Currently installing 3.73's into my 9 bolt (YES,it is a 9 bolt & YES they are 3.73's, not 3.70. 4.11's to follow soon
)www.koolmeister.com
I have a '90 RS Camaro and I just unhooked my hatch motor and set the gears to the area where I wanted he hatch to stop and use it as a manual latch now. I had to stick a few washers behind the motor at the bottom so that the latch would match where it closes and mine works great. I do not have to slam my hatch to get it to close, the washers made the angle of closing correct and now mine works perfect!
Re: Convert from pulldown hatch to simple latch style?

But no, really... I've owned a dozen thirdgens over the last 20+ years and the only hatch that's routinely pissed me off was the one with the slam style. The fact that GM felt the need to incorporate an electric motor after two years of production really should tell you something.
To date, I've never had a problem with a hatch pulldown. They virtually will never fail as long as the lift supports are good, and no one abuses the pulldown by slamming the hatch.
Fix it and forget it.
BTW, welcome to the forum, but please refrain from bumping 16 year old threads. If you have a question, and you can't find an answer with a search, just start a new thread.
Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 284
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From: Livingston, TN
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Re: Convert from pulldown hatch to simple latch style?
I wonder if you can 3d print some of these parts now that the technology has advanced to this point...like the guides, gearnut, etc...
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