swapping power window motors
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 379
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From: Yabba Grabba Brew
Car: 89 Camaro RS Convertible
Engine: 305
Transmission: NWC T-5
Just fyi, they are riveted on so it won't be easy. If you move the rivets very carefully, you can replace them with nuts and bolts w/washers and it will hold well.
Another option would be to cut the metal out around the motor on both and weld them in.
You also have to adjust the guides and set the window in alignment.
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Another option would be to cut the metal out around the motor on both and weld them in.
You also have to adjust the guides and set the window in alignment.
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I just did one and would not say it is easy.
You'll need to drill out 4 rivets to get the assembly off the door panel and then a few more to get the motor off the assembly.
Read the "Power Windows 101" it explains most everything.
Having a pop rivet gun with some 1/4" pop rivets makes the assembly much easier.
If it goes all the way up and all the way down just a little slow, you might want to try cleaning out the tracks, put some fresh oil on it and use a few days?
You'll need to drill out 4 rivets to get the assembly off the door panel and then a few more to get the motor off the assembly.
Read the "Power Windows 101" it explains most everything.
Having a pop rivet gun with some 1/4" pop rivets makes the assembly much easier.
If it goes all the way up and all the way down just a little slow, you might want to try cleaning out the tracks, put some fresh oil on it and use a few days?
Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 323
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From: mayfield, OH
Car: 82 Trans am
Engine: Twin turbo 350
Transmission: T-56
Changing the motor on a power window assy. is a huge PITA. I swapped my drivers side motor and regulator (had a donor so i didnt want to disassemble. the whole spring-loaded bit. . ) because my old motor would make lots of noise and work intermittently. Use shims or something to hold the window about 3/4 way up, drill the rivets, and then the hardest part is getting the stupid thing out of the tiny hole in the door frame. Rivet it back in. better off doing it right the first time than going in and fixing it when it comes loose.
I just finished replacing a motor on a 91 TA. Without this forum, I wouldn't have attempted it but with estimates of $248 & $340 and all the valuable help in this forum it ended up costing me $60. Definitely recommend reading Power Windows, 101 in Technical Articles. Things that weren’t apparent to me when I started was that both the motor and regulator have to be removed from door before you get to the dangerous part of taking motor off regulator assembly. Once its out, it is relatively easy to lock the gear & spring assembly. I don't know how any of you have removed that assembly without removing the rear vertical track. This had 3 bolts and then the top window stop. Marking bolt positions and getting this out of the way made removal quite simple. I went the bolt route with one exception ... I got nuts with attached star washers to lock it down. Also I couldn't find anyone who would rent the pop rivet gun that fits the 1/4" GM rivets and the $200+ price tag for buying one also helped me go the bolt route. Using tape on an open end wrench to hold nut, it took about 10 minutes to get all 4 bolts in. #4 position is definitely the toughest but coming at it from center of door, got it in ... you must contort your wrist to get it though. Anyway hope these additional thoughts helps someone else.
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 4,541
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Car: 1991 Corvette Coupe
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4/4L60 same trans different name
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BahamutRS:
I bought a new motor for mine but this sounds like a real pain in the *** . I think I'll leave something like this to a shop. Wonder how much it'll cost me.</font>
I bought a new motor for mine but this sounds like a real pain in the *** . I think I'll leave something like this to a shop. Wonder how much it'll cost me.</font>

Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: australia
Car: 1982 t top,,z/28,
Engine: 409ci vortec
Transmission: all steel t700r4,1300 stall yahooooooooooo
HEY i just spent all day,,,,still aint done,,,i conld have replaced the gearbox,in better time,,,ITS AN ****hole of a job,,the first one went a few weeks ago,,,and the local auto electrician charged me $120,,i thought ,,AHHHH ,,,i can save the bucks,and do it,,,,HEY i got no skin left on both arms,,i drilled the riverts and it exploded,,the stupid spring let go,, i didn,t think i was this stupid,,its a pain in the neck,,next time he can do the both sides for me,,,i will go for a beer,,and GLADLY pay $120, NEVER AGAIN,,steve,in OZ
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: australia
Car: 1982 t top,,z/28,
Engine: 409ci vortec
Transmission: all steel t700r4,1300 stall yahooooooooooo
no i got the stupid thing out from the door shell,,stuck it on the bench,,,checked to see if the spring was under load,,it didn,t look too bad,,,,then I DRILLED THE RIVERTS,1,2,3 BANG parts flew everywhere,,it was under load,,today i will try again,,,,you cant do this yourself,,,,i need someone to hold the window glass,,and opperate the switch,,to get it all ligned up,,,the 4 bolts,,arent a problem,,i taped the 2 front ones in place,towards the front of the car,,i will attack it soon as i get up the courage,,in about 1 hour,,steve
I upgraded my car to power locks and windows a little while ago.
I replaced the whole mechanism, I wouldn't even think of taking that thing apart without the right tools and skills. It took me about 6 hours, (30mins for the locks) but I already had the wiring harness installed.
Having good drill bits and a good hammer and punch helps for the rivits. I used washer's and lock-tight. It's tricky getting the bolts in, you have to move the window up and down. I used a battery charger.
I sucked, you need to be agile and a quick healer. I had the benifit of looking at a working setup with the interior panel off.
Good luck anyways, it's tough
Oh yeah anyone with door pockets for sale? I got some holes from the old window crank that need to be covered up. E-mail me
[This message has been edited by Blade3001 (edited September 09, 2001).]
I replaced the whole mechanism, I wouldn't even think of taking that thing apart without the right tools and skills. It took me about 6 hours, (30mins for the locks) but I already had the wiring harness installed.
Having good drill bits and a good hammer and punch helps for the rivits. I used washer's and lock-tight. It's tricky getting the bolts in, you have to move the window up and down. I used a battery charger.
I sucked, you need to be agile and a quick healer. I had the benifit of looking at a working setup with the interior panel off.
Good luck anyways, it's tough
Oh yeah anyone with door pockets for sale? I got some holes from the old window crank that need to be covered up. E-mail me
[This message has been edited by Blade3001 (edited September 09, 2001).]
lukerene ... I know its a pain. Mine took me a total of 3 days ... trying to get parts, rivits ... a rivet gun that would work with rivits and then finally deciding to go with bolts etc.. I did my alone and used two pieces of heater hose (wedged between glass and door frame to hold glass up and a wood 6" long 2x4 under the glass, just in case the heater hose didn't hold. Good luck ... you'll get it.
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