Hello thirdgen,

Short question about doors. I have a 91 TTOP car.

Am I fighting an un-winnable battle here? Or is there a way to easily close the door without having to compromise with wind/water problems?

__________

-Longer Question

I'm starting to get really nit picky with my car and its "flaws" in order to make it more passenger friendly.

Apparently, my doors are really hard to close. I close them fine because I'm use to them, however passengers often will not close the door all the way. It takes them 2-4 tries which is sometimes quite embarrassing, especially on dates.

I believe my car had new hinges and such installed when the PO had the paint/body work done. When the doors are open in any position and I try to lift them, there is a little play, but nothing that seems alarming.

I have adjusted the striker toward the outside to make the doors easier to close. When I do so I get banging noises while driving that sounds like the door is not closed, when in fact it is closed.

Next,

The door is easier to close when the windows are down. This is do to the window contacting the weather stripping(again replaced 3-4yrs ago). When I adjust the windows to tilt outward, the door is easier to close, BUT I get tons of wind noise and water leaks.

Am I fighting an un-winnable battle here? Or is there a way to easily close the door without having to compromise with wind/water problems?

 

Open & close the door for your date(s)......

Knowing how you enjoy you cars & how well you take care of them, my only Q would refer to the hinges // door sag ** JUST ENOUGH to be a PITA..?.. **?

 

Go on ebay and get a $15 pin and bushing set for each door. Reset the doors.

Closing door w/ windows up is a pressure thing, try leaving HVAC on "vent" see if it makes difference in closing ? Not sure - just thought of it.

 

Its not interior pressure, there are already vents in the B-pillar to prevent that issue. They vent into the 1/4 panels.

 

True, that might just be the easiest and smartest fix

I went out and looked at my bushings, hinges and pins. They are definitely the originals and have not been replaced. After looking at them closely, I can tell there is some play going on. So I am going to go ahead and get the entire kit. I'm thinking both lower and upper replacement parts. Might as well replace both if I'm going to do it. It sees like a real PITA which I really wanted to avoid.

As for interior pressure. The doors are noticeably easier to close when the other door or hatch is open. I know there are vents in the door jamb and I have been told they can somehow clog. I will look into that. I'm toying with the idea of having the windows barely roll down when the door is opened, then roll up after it is closed; Like some BMW's, Porsche's, and even the 5th gen I believe. But that's a project for another day.

 

Just did the hinge pins and bushing replacement on my drivers door. Had the door hanging from a rafter in my shop. Went alright, it is a job though. The end result being a door that is perfectly aligned and opens and closes like new. The passenger side just needed lubed up for now.

 

Regardless of the vent, I believe it does have something to do with pressure. If I close one of the doors with the other side open, it is much easier than if everything is closed up. This is with the windows up too. Even if everything is closed up, and I shut my driver door, I see the T-top pop up a bit from the pressure.

My doors shut like the car's brand new, but they're still difficult to close. Just one of the quirks of owning an F-body I guess.

Just a little tip, if your date is shutting the door, crack her window just a bit by tapping the switch and shut it when she closes the door.

 

Same here,pressure,when the windows are down a little have no problems,it's when the widows are up,that's when I have problems.

 

This issue has been known for years... It's one of the reasons the new Camaros have the windows drop about 3/8 of an inch when the door is open.

 

My driver side door require a higher effort to close with the window fully up. Lower that window just a bit and it closes easily. I've also discovered the bottom rear edge of the door is making contact with the ground effects, and rubbing off the paint. That door also sticks sometimes when closed. When it does it feels like you could pull the door handle off if not careful, so I go in from around the other side, lower the driver window, then I go back and lift the handle and push on the door from the inside with the other hand and it breaks the door free. This door needs some attention.

My passenger side door works perfectly, window up or down. It does not even rattle internally when closed. Sounds like new actually. Obviously it has not had as many cycles as my driver door.

 

Thanks for all the input, and good tip there Nick.

After messing around with the doors even more, pressure is simply the problem. I'll end up figuring a way to do what the modern camaros and BMW's do. And that's to have the windows lower 1/2 an inch or so when the door is opened. And then have it go back up when closed.

 

If you ever figure this out. I want directions! Too many holes in my car for this pressure problem. But I am sure it will be a problem when I finish the body work!

 

Mine close great ! .. I Even bitch at ppl for slamming em too hard haha

 

Another problem I don't think anyone addressed is the actual length and weight of the doors (which can't be changed to much if at all). I have never weighed a door on a scale or anything but have picked them up and they are just plain heavy especially when compared to something that comes on a honda or similar. Then take into account that the are probably 8 to 12 inches longer than other doors (just guessing). That's a lot of weight hanging pretty far out you have got to get moving to even think about closing the door. If you are not use to it, it can be pretty hard to close the door.. Just think about it or try this one time.

Open and close your door repeatedly maybe about 10 times in a row. So that the motion is normal for you. Then go to your buddy's civic (because everyone has a buddy with a civic) and get in his car (driver side) and close the door just once with him in the car (passenger side). I almost guarantee you he flips out as if you have just destroyed his car when the door slams shut. You didn't mean to slam it with all your might I'm sure but he will think you did. Your muscles and body have kinda pre programmed themselves to do a certain action the same way every time. No matter what the weight or length of an object.

A passenger will have the opposite problem. Even if your doors lined up perfect with new pins and catches and strikers and even mystical anti friction coatings sprayed on by god himself. Your passenger male or female is gonna struggle with the doors unless they too drive an f body of some sort. It takes no effort at all to close some vehicle doors. Which is nice and all but not part of living with a f body especially one made from 1970-2002.

 

I had a similar problem in that my drivers door sagged and my passenger door would always close on the t-top drip edge seal. The body shop fixed the pass side but the driver side got a new problem. The sagging was fixed, but now the window ( with door ajar) has an incredible amount of play. So much so that if it is not in the exact position it won't close right at all. When I get in the car I have roll down the window for the door to close right. If I move the guides on the top to stiffen the window position, the window won't catch the seal. And I could go on as to how much the doors have plagued me since day 1.......