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Lowering Part II

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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 09:50 AM
  #1  
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From: Trenton NJ,Rochester Ny
Lowering Part II

Hey Moderators if you want to close this post and put it with my other one that is fine. I just had a second question that I needed some answers to. Thanks. OK here it goes. If you were going ot lower your cars what would you do, buy the springs, buy the clamps or Cut/heat your springs or donor springs. Also what is the measurement for cutting the springs. For example if you cut one full coil off the spring does it lower your car a full inchs? Same with heating, if you heat it them push them down an inch does that lower your car a full inch. Thanks for the help guys. ALLLLLSSSSSOOOO (hehehe) If I lowered my car what are the biggest rubber rim combo I can get, Right now I have 235/60 R15s but I want to up it to 245/50 R16s. Would that new combo rub when I turned the wheel? Thanks

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1989 RS Camaro
305ci TBI
Mods:
Hedman Header
Highflow Cat
3inch catback pipe
FlowMaster 80 Series Muffler
14x3 Open Air Element
8.5 HighTemp Spark Plug Wires
4.7 Ohm Reistor
Torque Converter Lock Up switch
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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 10:03 AM
  #2  
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
I would buy the spindles & the rear spring package.

The reasons:
1) it does not change the Geometry of your front suspension.
2) heating the spring weakens the springs, & could cause them to break prematurely, making it dangerous.
3) using clamps causes unusual stresses in the spring as well that could breakage..

John

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G O D BLESS AMERICA

http://www.3rdgenformula.com
87 Formula 5.1 TPI Auto Modified (Yellow/Black)

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

14.8sec 1967 Buick Riviera
1990 Buick Riviera (driver)
83 Camaro
83 T/A
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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 01:01 PM
  #3  
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From: Stavanger area, Norway
Car: 86 IROC Convt
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: TH700R4
I would do all springs.

1) Mainly because with drop spindles you will still have the "relatively" soft springs and you will be much more prone to scraping. Lowering springs are stiffer, thus this is not nearly as big of a problem.
2) The wheel geometry can be adjusted at your local Midas etc. for less than $40.
3) From my experience the clamps do absolutely nothing. And I would definitely not chop the original springs, mainly for reason #1.

For wheels, I don't know what is the biggest, but I have 17x9.5" with 275/40x17 all around, and there isnt too much room to spare. Could go bigger in the back, but up front that's close to max.


Ken

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1986 IROC-Z Conv't
- ASCD SS Hood, White Gauges, 17x9.5 TT II rims w/275/40x17" F1s, 1.5" Jamex Lowering Springs, BMR stb, Lakewood APR, PST suspension parts, Edelbrock Trailing Arms, KYBs, Edelbrock RPM Cat-Back, Edelbrock JHC Headers, Edelbrock RPM Chrome Tips, Catco, World Products Heads, CompCam, SLP runners, Ported Plenum, K&N, Airfoil +polished/billet dress-up stuff

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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 02:37 PM
  #4  
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From: Hayward, CA USA
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by okfoz:
I would buy the spindles & the rear spring package.

The reasons:
1) it does not change the Geometry of your front suspension.
2) heating the spring weakens the springs, & could cause them to break prematurely, making it dangerous.
3) using clamps causes unusual stresses in the spring as well that could breakage..

John

</font>
Im with Okfoz, I did the spindle/spring package. Also running 245's all around. Expect some rubbing, esp. w/ lowering and bigger meats, but absolutley happy.

------------------
'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*

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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 03:20 PM
  #5  
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From: Long Island NY
I went with the energy suspensions lowering springs, did all four when did new shocks and struts, The car sits much better now and the handeling difference is noticable. Although with my newly installed 3" exhust system I only have about 1 1/2 to 2" of clearence under my cat.
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Old Dec 6, 2001 | 10:01 PM
  #6  
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From: Midlothian,VA. 23112-6108
Car: 1982 Z-28
Engine: 5.0 w/ Holly carb
Transmission: TH-700R4
I was going to use the drop spindles.But they will not work with my 1LE brake package.I am probably going to do some sort of spring mod?

------------------
82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,Edelbrock Performer RPM,Holly 1850-4,serpentine belt drive.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.poly everything,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad
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Old Dec 7, 2001 | 05:09 PM
  #7  
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From: Ft. Worth, TX
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ChevyKen:
I would do all springs.

1) Mainly because with drop spindles you will still have the "relatively" soft springs and you will be much more prone to scraping. Lowering springs are stiffer, thus this is not nearly as big of a problem.
2) The wheel geometry can be adjusted at your local Midas etc. for less than $40.
3) From my experience the clamps do absolutely nothing. And I would definitely not chop the original springs, mainly for reason #1.


Ken

</font>
you do know that cutting the springs both shortens them and increases the spring rate (stiffens the springs). In fact, it is recommended that you use springs from one of the non-performance suspension setups because WS6 or 1LE springs will actually be too stiff (obviously this depends on your tolerances, but a guy I know who builds some serious cars and whose last daily driven 01 SS ran 10s, just lowered his new trans am by using cut V6 springs.)
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Old Dec 8, 2001 | 08:52 PM
  #8  
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From: Granite City, IL, USA
Springs notlow enough without disturbing geometry? Spindles with saggy stock springs?
DO BOTH! Lower with Belltech drop spindles and Eibach 1" lowering springs. A 3" fron drop seems excessive, but if you have a Formula like me, you wont scrape the front bumper (Just the airdam) and you will still have sufficient ground clearance go SLOW over speedbumps.
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