Hey everybody I got a 92 RS camaro I need help prepping my car for paint.

I want to know what type of primer do I need for the Front, bumper, Rear bumper, and ground effects.

I Went to summit and they gave me a gallon of Epoxy primer but I heard it wont stick to the bumper and ground effects well and will cause cracking in paint.

What grit do I need for sanding(Bumper, and ground effects)?

What grit do I need for sanding(metal parts)?

What primer do I really need?

Can I use epoxy on urethane?

Please give ALL your best tips to get the job done from start to finish. I'm just prepping the car for paint and will have somebody paint it for me.

 

Too many questions... scuff plastics with a scotch brite and dust it with an adhesion promoter. 600 grit is probably good on your metal, but check with the paints or primers specifications, same with if you can spray over x... Flex Agent should already be added to any decent paint your buy now.

 

The correct primer for bare urethane/rubber/plastic is called "adhesion promoter". When I use other types of primer on that substrate, I add a flex agent.

Almost any kind of primer, including epoxy can be used on the bumpers, etc.

Ditto what the previous poster said. Too many questions at one time. Please do some research on your own, then come back with questions on topics that you're not sure of.

 

Ok Thanks

 

Ok Thanks

 

Let me know if you're looking for a painter...I have a few people I can recommend in the ATL area.

 

Yes im looking for some painters. Please reply or DM them

 

If you can afford them, Carl Black GMC in Roswell did all the paintwork on my '02, and they're the best that I've experienced.

If you're more on a budget (and you're not in a hurry), American Bad*** Muscle Cars (a.k.a. American Beauty and Muscle) in Loganville does decent work as well. 678.957.6181 is their number, ask for Jimmy and tell him you were referred by Mike at Buy-a-vette (he does 99% of our Corvette paintwork for us).

If you're on a super tight budget, I know of a place on Buford Hwy, but would need to get the contact info. Workmanship is not quite as good as the other two I mentioned. Let me know.

 

He said: "Flex Agent should already be added to any decent paint your buy now."


I'm not aware of that. Please provide a manufacture's source(s) that supports that statement. I'm just trying to learn something I may not know.

 

Ok great! Do you recommend paint now or waiting when it get warmer?

 

Flex agents are not needed these days people..only had cracking and spider webbing problems on the old paint systems..lacquer and some of the enamels...today's urethanes and base/clear systems are made to withstand the cracking that cars endured back when..if you try to paint over something that has cracked paint it will absolutely come back later..every bit of paint and primer on any urethane bumper that is cracked has to be completely stripped or sanded off..no way around it..
People will argue this to no end but it is true..flex agents are not needed..if your car is hit hard enough by something to crack the paint you are most likely going to need some body work and new paint anyways so where did you get by adding a flex agent? Nowhere..

 

I just called a body shop, the told me the same thing you said. They say most paints now-a-days are flexible enough.

I plan on using this paint kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dark-Teal-Metallic-Gallon-Kit-URETHANE-BASECOAT-CLEAR-Auto-Paint-FAST-Kit-/141161032186?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item20ddda69fa&vxp=mtr

 

Did you use adhesive promoter on your bumper, spoiler, and side skirts?
Also, did you use two different types of primer(Metal and plastic)?

 

Please provide a manufacturer's statement to that effect.

Aw heck. I'll save you some research. I already knew the answer, but thought if I could get you to do the research, it would help you. Read the following link from DuPont Refinish for plastics(bumpers, etc.) repair procedures. Just because your local paint supplier says it, it doesn't make it true.

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...PlasRepair.pdf

 

missing my point yeni...first off,my information did not come from any paint store..not sure where you read or researched that at..
tell me at the end of the day how many cars are wrecked and the owners are happy because their paint is still stuck to their bumper even though it is a crumpled mess..I'm willing to bet the answer is (None)
flex agent is nothing more than a plasticizer...also known as (santisizer) here in the paint and coatings industry where I so happen to be employed for almost 20 years now
plasticizer is used in every urethane coating we produce...I am willing to bet our competiton like dupont,sw,nason..etc.. use the same..

now,onto the original posters questions...just use a good 2k epoxy primer on everything and you will be fine..if any of your poly/plastic parts have cracked paint you are going to need to remove every bit of the paint and start with the bare plastic...
also,be sure that everything is very clean and at least scuffed with oh lets say 220 grit..that should work for you..after scuffing them up clean with mild detergent and water then wipe down with wax and grease remover..that kit you posted looks like it will work out good for ya..just follow the instructions very carefully..
and just in case anyone wants pics,look at either of my sig albums or any of the other albums and you will see some of the cars I have painted using absolutely zero flex ad and sti;ll have paint on them just like the day I painted them..one car(the gta) had bumped into a shopping cart once and was also backed into once(very lightly bumped by the bumper of a truck and guess what!! The paint is still there and is not cracked! wow! imagine that..who woulda thought a cars paint could survive that with no flex ad..I know...I'm speechless too..

 

Ok thanks. Good looking out!

 

Sir, I didn't miss your point. ALL paint manufacturers specify the use of a flex agent(plasticizer) in their paints. If yours doesn't please provide a link to your company saying flex shouldn't be used.
Here is a quote from PPG's plastic refinish procedures: You can go to their website to read the entire subject matter if you wish. They specifically say to use a flex. Further, they specifically state that their flex doesn't gas-off, but stays in the cured paint.

Quote from PPG: "Due to the nature of a flexible substrate, it must beable to absorb a slight
impact and not crack or chip. Additives are used in undercoats and
clearcoats to maintain thisflexibility. Years ago, these additives were just
a solvent that would evaporate. Today,our flex additives contain resins
that actually remain with the paint film after any solvent has left. These
resins improve long-term flexibility and durability."

I don't like to get into "my stuff is bigger, longer, better than yours", but since you brought it up, I painted my first overall in 1965...that's close to 50 years ago. I have attended almost all manufacturer, GM and ICAR courses during my years in the business as an owner of a small shop and manager of mega-size collision repair facilities. I have personally sprayed all major brands of paints as well as some of their econo lines.

Again, please post something from your brand that says it's not necessary to use flex in their paint.

 

I've worked at two top of the line shops, one sprayed dupont, the other sprays PPG. Neither use flex additive in anything they paint and neither has had a single comeback due to it for as long as I've worked there. On a couple of occasions the bumper gets hit again an shows no signs of primer failure even after the impact.

Does the manufacturer tell you to use it? Yes. Do you have to use it? No, most shops don't. Good brands of paint are very flexible (I can't vouch for the cheap stuff) though I suppose you are taking a little bit of a gamble when you don't.

 

exactly...it is all a marketing thing..some folks can't get beyond what they read on a TDS or online though...I could post a link to some ocean front property in Az too...but that doesn't make it real world truth..
yeni if you want any proof just browse my pics..nothing I have ever sprayed has had flex added to it..

 

Of course the manufacturer is going to recommend the use of additive "X" or "Y". It simply means more money in their pockets. Will it work? Probably, maybe, perhaps, hell who knows? The one thing I'm 100% certain is its basic marketing. Manufacturers make a product that works as it is intended, albeit, some better than others. They establish a quality benchmark and say "Our product works great!...But you know, it would work even better if you bought this to go with it! "

What I'm getting at is that the flex agent may or may not work, there's probably plenty of tests that show that it improves flexibility. However the paint flexes just fine without it. The manufacturers wouldn't be able to continue to sell the paint if it didn't, because it wouldn't be compatible with any automobile built in the last 20 years. How long has it been since a car had a steel front or rear bumper? lol! In a perfect world, the plasticizer should be premixed into the base (which I'm sure a nominal amount already is) and the paint you buy would be formulated for the specific car you are painting based on the percentage of plastic, steel, and fiberglass panels among many other factors. In the end do what makes you feel better.

I'm no paint expert, but I did stay at a holiday in express last night. :P

 

Quit beating the flex additive horse. You don't need it. We painted my car all in one shot, nothing added for the bumpers. Then my dumb azz ran my car into the back of the garage, bending the front spoiler under itself. It sprung right back, not a mark on the paint.

 

The paint will of course cure faster when it's warmer, but this is also still the slow business time of year for most body shops, so you'd be less likely to have a bunch of jobs ahead of you now than you would by this Spring or Summer.

Also, a professional body shop will have a "bake" room to do most of the paint curing for you.