mike0brien

So I have two issues with my trunk lid, I know there are guides but I can't find this second part in any guide.

So first off, the spoiler hangs off about 1/2 an inch past the side pieces. The area at the top by the hinges looks pretty even, and when I open the trunk lid it looks like if it was any farther up then it couldn't even open, nor does it really look like it could go up far enough. So what is my issue here? Where is my alignment off?

Second... the lid itself seems loose. I can lift it up and down when latched, almost like when you pop a hood latch and its at the second stage latch. Because of this as it rides down the road and bounces my third brake light looses connection and flickers. Even though it isn't fully latching, it doesn't seem to leak. What would cause this?

The previous owner has it set up to take subs, he also built a speaker box for the subs, I was thinking he may have moved the lid in some way shape or form cause with the box in there it wasn't closing, but I can't verify this.

TIMMYS89GTA

iTrader: (28)

Wow! The deck lid moving when closed is not a good thing..is it moving like its loose from the glass or is the glass moving with it? If the glass is not moving you need to remove the plastic interior panel on the deck lid and tighten the 4 13mm bolts that hold the glass and lid together.

92crimsonRS

sounds like you have two common issues.
1. the deck is know for sliding rearward and causing misalignment. there is a good write up on how to re adjust it. its caused by the struts that hood the glass up.

2. you might have a power pull down latch which is probably broken. mine was so i slid it down and tacked it together so its a solid latch. i would take the plastic off and take a look at the latch.

Hal87

iTrader: (1)

Have had the same issues, same fix

mike0brien

So it is a power latch.... when it is plugged in it just constantly runs trying to pull down more. I had it go all the way down then I unplugged it. SO that is probably why he unplugged it. Any idea why it would do this? or how I could just bypass it? and I do notice the shocks on the lid have been replaced as they are not GM parts. And I can see "clips" on the deck lid that go on the window that are no longer fully seated. So I am guessing your theory on the struts pushing the deck lid back are correct. how in depth is the procedure to fix this?

92crimsonRS

the motors go out soon after the struts give way. due to the hatch slaming donw on the motor causing the gears to strip or the casing to break.

the decklid alignment is hard/easy. depends on if you have help.i didnt but it only took me about an hour to get it lined up just right.

mike0brien

Ok cool. Anyone have the link to the guide? And the motor, can I just eliminate it all together or must it be replaced? The thing looks full of corrosion. OH also what about aligning the hood? Looks like mine is about 1/2 an inch forward. would it just be loosening hood hinge bolts and moving it back or would I have to dremel the holes out a bit as if I was doing a camber adjustment on some cars?

Amaro83

We just did a realignment on my trunk this past weekend!!! We had 3 people helping. What we thought to be an easy fix with tightening a few bolts turned into a major job! Turns out the pin that lets the trunk open and close was busted. We had to take the whole thing out, pound the pin out, then put a new pin in and bolt it back in. If you ever do this, be sure that the small bushing from the original pin stays inside the hole. Wee used a small roller pin and it fit perfect!! With some tweeking and a few adjustments, it looks as close to perfect as I'm gonna get!! I am happy with how it turned out. Next weekend, realligning the driver door!! Good luck!!

Ninety-One

A little tip: I aligned my 91 rear hatch(you remove the interior panel on the hatch and do it there) but if you have nice strong new rear trunk struts, it's a waste of time, only took my car a month or two to slide back another half inch again. Maybe tightening the 10mm bolts down more? I was kind of being Cautious because it tightens to the glass iirc, so maybe I didn't snug them up enough?

Another tip: I took black rtv and sealed the hatch panel down but it still leaked, so then I used the same black rtv and ran a bead across the bottom of the glass and used my finger to kind push / pump it under the hatch panel on top of the glass and ran my finger across it at the end from one end to the next so you couldn't even see it was under there, fixed every leak and isn't visible at All. Also keeps water from sitting there me leaking that nasty calcium deposit lines around the glass.

Good luck!
Brendan