wheel stuck on car!!!!help!!
wheel stuck on car!!!!help!!
my frickin passenger side rear wheel wont come off my car!! i was trying to change the shocks this last weekend, and i got the driver side one done, then jacked up the pass side to do it, and the wheel wouldnt come off....the lugnuts came off just fine, but the wheel was stuck on there...i tried tapping (hard) with a small sledge, but it still wouldnt come off...any ideas!?
I'd say you have a bent stud. Hit it harder, but be careful not to knock the car off your jack stands. You should pull the drum off and replace the bent stud before replacing your wheel.
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
My bet would be your wheel has decided to corrode itself on your car. I had this happen to a parts car, I litterly had to take a 5lb sledge, a piece of wood, & beat the living crap out of the wheel. You can actually beat on the front side too (IF your daring) to help loosen it. Luckily I did not damage the wheel Thats what the block of wood is intended for...
There was a discussion on this same topic about a montha ago. Some suggestions were nothing more than crazy, if not dangerous...
Good luck
John
There was a discussion on this same topic about a montha ago. Some suggestions were nothing more than crazy, if not dangerous...
Good luck
John
I would also try hitting the wheel in more than 1 place...My 84 had a very similar problem...i beat the crap out of the wheel for about 2 hrs then realized i kept hitting it in the same place...simply spin as you hit and sooner or later she'll pop off. be careful and good luck!!
Mike
Mike
i agree with okfoz.
happened to me.... the sledge was inneffective.... i pulled out a small torch, and heated stuff up, then pounded, and it sort of broke the corrosion, but the best way i tried... was to stand about 10 feetaway from the car, run up, and punt like winning the superbowl was on the line. that broke it loose real well (don't break your foot) and it came off with a little more sledge convincing...
Put the other side on the ground though.... just in case.
happened to me.... the sledge was inneffective.... i pulled out a small torch, and heated stuff up, then pounded, and it sort of broke the corrosion, but the best way i tried... was to stand about 10 feetaway from the car, run up, and punt like winning the superbowl was on the line. that broke it loose real well (don't break your foot) and it came off with a little more sledge convincing...
Put the other side on the ground though.... just in case.
Last edited by HamsterOnaMission; Dec 19, 2001 at 11:13 PM.
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From: Cherry Hill, NJ
Car: 92 Trans Am 'Vert
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5 Speed
Do like I had to do lastnight... Get under the car, feet facin the wheel thats stuck. MAKE SURE U HAVE 2 JACK STANDS SUPPORTING CAR, AS WELL AS A JACK... Now, kick the hell out of the wheel, with both feet on opposite sides of the wheel. Worked for me!
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All of you are way to violent to the wheel..... It won't come loose so you w-h-ack it with a sledge as the 1st method
I learned a little trick (but you must be careful).... I never had to do this on my Camaro, but it worked on a Ford Tempo and a Buick Century..... On the affect wheel, loosen (but do not remove) all the lug nuts (so if the wheel were not stuck on, it would wobble slightly). Jack up that specific wheel (so the wheel is about 1-2 inches off the ground). Make sure everything is clear, and release the jack (this will drop the car on that wheel).
The goal is pop the wheel free (and usually works, for me). By keeping the lug nuts ON you help ensure that the wheel doesn't pop off, go rolling and causing the car to slam the ground (and if you are REALLY good, you can stop the jack from going all the way down so it could still support the car if the wheel did fly off)....
The pressure of the drop should not exceed the "bounce" of the tire and the ground and rim should not touch.
This has always worked for me in the past.... But if any of you add this to your list of ways to release a tire, please BE CAREFUL.....
I learned a little trick (but you must be careful).... I never had to do this on my Camaro, but it worked on a Ford Tempo and a Buick Century..... On the affect wheel, loosen (but do not remove) all the lug nuts (so if the wheel were not stuck on, it would wobble slightly). Jack up that specific wheel (so the wheel is about 1-2 inches off the ground). Make sure everything is clear, and release the jack (this will drop the car on that wheel).
The goal is pop the wheel free (and usually works, for me). By keeping the lug nuts ON you help ensure that the wheel doesn't pop off, go rolling and causing the car to slam the ground (and if you are REALLY good, you can stop the jack from going all the way down so it could still support the car if the wheel did fly off)....
The pressure of the drop should not exceed the "bounce" of the tire and the ground and rim should not touch.
This has always worked for me in the past.... But if any of you add this to your list of ways to release a tire, please BE CAREFUL.....
now that you tryed all the damaging ways, why don't you take your pry-bar put it on the back of your ball joint and pry on the rim. This method has worked for me so many times I can't count them any more. And it leaves no damage what so ever
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Someone made this suggestion before: Put the lug nuts back on loose. Then lay out some 4 x 4's spaced apart behind the car on that side. Drive over them reverse, then forward until the wheel comes free.
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