I recently acquired my moms iroc. Decided to do a street strip build. I only work on it a few hours a week. I figure I will post picks and ideas about that I want to do . That way people can chime in with advice. I've been reading this forum for about a year and really enjoy all the great information.

 

Started taking it apart and repairing rust . It was slow going at first but moving along better now

 

I took the dash out so I can remove all the heat and ac.

 

so far the biggest problem I've had is I broke the gauge cluster removing a it. I was going to use the intellitronix digital gauges but I broke the circuit board and white housing. If I can't find a cheap instrument cluster I will probly go with regular round aftermarket gauges. I have ordered my 8 point roll cage with the subframe connectors coming next in a week or so.

 

This is a picture of the drivers floor removed I'll post a pic of the patch piece so far. I am sure what I am doing is not perfect. Please feel free to give any advice.

 

the car will not be a daily driver. My commute to work is an 8 mile stretch down Route 66 Where the speed limit is 55 mph. other than different events in the St. Louis or Chicago area that is primarily what the car will be used for. There was an article in February 2016 super Chevy about a $3979 blown small block. That is the engine combo I would like to start with. Also I am thinking of a turbo 350 trans.

 

I got two plates welded in for the roll cage this weekend. I would like to have a headliner in the car. How much space should I leave between the roll cage and roof? Don't I also need to leave room for padding around the roll cage?

 

 

New sheet metal on drivers side floor pan. It's coming along slowly. I'm in no big rush. Thanks again to everyone for all the great information on the forum. I just hope my build can help someone.

 

When I put my cage in, I spaced the main hoop down from center of roof (t top car) just enough to slide my index finger all the way between top of bar and bottom of roof. My headliner fit back in, but was a tight fit.

 

Perfect. Thank you.

 

i got the main hoop tacked in and realized I was out of welding gas. Going to start on the rear bars this weekend.

 

ordered some hotchkis subframe connectors ( p/n 4001) I figure I will get as much welding done as I can . I wasn't sure if these would weld to the floor and I didn't want to melt my sound deadener.
I will check around on the forum and find out all I can before I install them. Please chime in with any advice.

 

Are you using a Flux Core welder for your cage install?

 

No but when I got my main bar all centered up I went to tack it in and realized I was out of gas. I didn't want to center it up all over again so I went ahead and tacked it in anyway. I am a complete amateur with a welder so any tips would be great.

 

As long as both surfaces are clean and you know the thickness of the metal you are welding you should be fine, there should be a chart on the welder somewhere (Miller has them on the inside of the door where the wire feed is). Go off that chart. Should sound like bacon sizzling when you have a good bead going, rotate in small circles.
Get a feel for your machine before you go welding in a roll cage... That thing may or may not save your life one day!

 

thanks dbruce. I am missing a piece to my tubing bender so I have started working on other things like the subframe connectors and welding more spots on the floor. I have to admit I am getting frustrated with this. I'm starting to realize the car is a rusty piece of crap. I cutout a different pieces of the floor and make patch panels only to find out I didn't cut out enough and you can't weld to rust metal it just blows apart. So now I'm just chasing holes all over.

 

Thanks to the help here on the forum I am understanding the welder more . Now I just have to take my time and do the best I can with it. I'm just following the chart and listening to how it sounds. I finally figured out how must gas to use so I'm not wasting it like I was. It stinks that the car is so rusty but it was my moms car for more than ten years so there is some sentimental value there.

 

Awesome!! Just keep practicing, the good thing is, with all the rust it gives you a chance to work on your welding. Work on spots that are not visible first. Sheet metal is thin and warps easily so tack and move on another 6inches (roughly) and tack. Allow the metal time to cool. Rust sucks, a warped body panel sucks more. Lol post pics and keep us updated!