When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
During the restoration of my sons 1989 IROC Z, I wanted to address the water leaks from the T-Top's before installing the fabricated lock box replacing the rear seats, roll bar, new seats and carpet in the car. The paint on the car was in great condition, including around the T-Top seals so I was trying to figure out where the water is leaking "through the seals." What I found is summarized below.
After removing the T-Top seals, the extent of the damage became very clear. Water had penetrated between the T-Top track and body, rusting through in several areas.
The seals were not the problem. Once water got passed the sealant gluing the seals to the body, rust ate away the metal behind, under, and on the tracks holding the weatherstripping in place.
I decided to take a wire wheel to the metal to fully discover the extent of the damage.
At this point, preserving the paint was not a priority as it was the only thing holding the rust together.
I started welding in replacement pieces and improving my ability to welding thin gauge steel. Practice improves ones abilities and there was plenty of practice available.
I decided to remove the T-Top tracks since they were heavily rusted and purchase new ones from Auto Fabrication & Design. The owner, Chris, did an excellent job.
Metal replacement was required under the tracks to restore integrity.
The corners of the T-Tops were filled with Bondo that had cracked and a source for water to penetrate. A propane torch was used to remove the Bondo, revealing the voids.
Even though the interior was stripped, risk of fire was real, super heating the open spaces behind the T-Top metal. I observed the car for 10-15 minutes after repair sessions to confirm nothing was smoldering.
The corners were welded up with small sheet metal triangles to avoid use of Bondo.
.
Repairing the metal supporting the T-Tops required probing the metal with a quick spot weld and grinding smooth. Weak metal would blow through requiring repairs. I went through several cycles to insure the metal was sound.
Overheating the thin gauge steel caused the roof to buckle in a few spots so I improved by bodywork skills by welding studs to pull out the dents with a slide hammer.
The new tracks were welded in place and lead filler was used to seal between the track edge and T-Top roof.
The lead filled the gap between the body and track and will prevent water from penetrating under the tracks in the future.
I decided to pull the front windshield to look for rust and found a large area above the cowl on the Driver side requiring repair.
This was under the windshield. Water would run down the side of the driver windshield, through the rust, and onto the drivers leg.
I used fiberglass body filler and block sanded to recover the rounded shape of the roof line.
This body filler is water proof and was run down to the T-top tracks, covering the lead filler preventing water from getting under the tracks.
Epoxy primer sealed the metal until I can circle back to paint the car.
Please note the small metal tabs welded at the ends of the T-Top tracks in the photos below. These should improve the seal between the T-Top weather strip and body, especially around the 4 corners which were previously filled with Bondo and leaking.
These tabs are my solution to the observations from others pulling back the T-Top rubber seal at the rear corner of each door, being able to see inside the car. Many solutions involved extra sealant in this area which was not effective enough in my view.
I will have to cut the T-Top seal slightly to accommodate these tabs but the sealant should maintain a better grip to these tabs inside the seals than holding the seals to the body. I added these tabs to both the front and rear T-Top corners.
Overall the repair work was extensive, taking 4-5 weeks to complete. I'm a amateur welder humble enough to grind with no practical experience in automotive body work until now.
The finished body work looks very smooth with no signs of denting or waves in the shape.
These cars are exceeding 30 years old so rust repair is a reality all owners must face.
I pulled out some big chunks of Bondo the POV or body shop applied in these areas prior to painting, to cover over the rust.
The best solution is to replace rusted areas, not cover over with Bondo.
Hopefully this helps if you are considering T-Top leak repairs.
During the restoration of my sons 1989 IROC Z, I wanted to address the water leaks from the T-Top's before installing the fabricated lock box replacing the rear seats, roll bar, new seats and carpet in the car. The paint on the car was in great condition, including around the T-Top seals so I was trying to figure out where the water is leaking "through the seals." What I found is summarized below.
After removing the T-Top seals, the extent of the damage became very clear. Water had penetrated between the T-Top track and body, rusting through in several areas.
The seals were not the problem. Once water got passed the sealant gluing the seals to the body, rust ate away the metal behind, under, and on the tracks holding the weatherstripping in place.
I decided to take a wire wheel to the metal to fully discover the extent of the damage.
At this point, preserving the paint was not a priority as it was the only thing holding the rust together.
I started welding in replacement pieces and improving my ability to welding thin gauge steel. Practice improves ones abilities and there was plenty of practice available.
I decided to remove the T-Top tracks since they were heavily rusted and purchase new ones from Auto Fabrication & Design. The owner, Chris, did an excellent job.
Metal replacement was required under the tracks to restore integrity.
The corners of the T-Tops were filled with Bondo that had cracked and a source for water to penetrate. A propane torch was used to remove the Bondo, revealing the voids.
Even though the interior was stripped, risk of fire was real, super heating the open spaces behind the T-Top metal. I observed the car for 10-15 minutes after repair sessions to confirm nothing was smoldering.
The corners were welded up with small sheet metal triangles to avoid use of Bondo.
.
Repairing the metal supporting the T-Tops required probing the metal with a quick spot weld and grinding smooth. Weak metal would blow through requiring repairs. I went through several cycles to insure the metal was sound.
Overheating the thin gauge steel caused the roof to buckle in a few spots so I improved by bodywork skills by welding studs to pull out the dents with a slide hammer.
The new tracks were welded in place and lead filler was used to seal between the track edge and T-Top roof.
The lead filled the gap between the body and track and will prevent water from penetrating under the tracks in the future.
I decided to pull the front windshield to look for rust and found a large area above the cowl on the Driver side requiring repair.
This was under the windshield. Water would run down the side of the driver windshield, through the rust, and onto the drivers leg.
I used fiberglass body filler and block sanded to recover the rounded shape of the roof line.
This body filler is water proof and was run down to the T-top tracks, covering the lead filler preventing water from getting under the tracks.
Epoxy primer sealed the metal until I can circle back to paint the car.
Please note the small metal tabs welded at the ends of the T-Top tracks in the photos below. These should improve the seal between the T-Top weather strip and body, especially around the 4 corners which were previously filled with Bondo and leaking.
These tabs are my solution to the observations from others pulling back the T-Top rubber seal at the rear corner of each door, being able to see inside the car. Many solutions involved extra sealant in this area which was not effective enough in my view.
I will have to cut the T-Top seal slightly to accommodate these tabs but the sealant should maintain a better grip to these tabs inside the seals than holding the seals to the body. I added these tabs to both the front and rear T-Top corners.
Overall the repair work was extensive, taking 4-5 weeks to complete. I'm a amateur welder humble enough to grind with no practical experience in automotive body work until now.
The finished body work looks very smooth with no signs of denting or waves in the shape.
These cars are exceeding 30 years old so rust repair is a reality all owners must face.
I pulled out some big chunks of Bondo the POV or body shop applied in these areas prior to painting, to cover over the rust.
The best solution is to replace rusted areas, not cover over with Bondo.
Hopefully this helps if you are considering T-Top leak repairs.
That is an excellent write-up! I like the idea of the tabs you welded on. For thin sheet metal, such as that found on the thirdgens, (and any car made after 1981, or so.) I prefer to use my TIG welder. I am a professionally trained welder, however, and would never recommend to anyone, that they get a TIG welder and spend the thousands of hours (And dollars.) In order to only use it for auto repair. Especially when nearly all projects require a MIG welder, at most. I think you did an amazing job! Definitely something to be proud of! I live in AZ, so we don't see much rust. Having said that, there are a lot of cars here that are from other states, so you can find rust, if you just look a little. I would recommend taking some of the lowest parts (Like the rocker panels and trunk well floor) down to bare metal to see if the previous owner covered up rust anywhere else on the car. You are right, though, when you say you can't just cover up rust. It has to be removed.
Keep up the great work!
DR.K
