I am about to sandblast the tail panel on my 92 so that I can repaint. Before blasting, I have removed the seam sealer since it is cracked and there is a little surface rust under it in places. In some places it looks like the factory seam sealer was installed before any paint. So, the first question is do I need to put it back in after sandblast or can I (should I) install it after painting with DP90? Also, there appears to be two different types of seam sealer used from the factory. Anybody know if there is a reason for that? And finally, there are quite a number of places where the seam sealer is used as a filler to large gaps between panels. Is there a specific seam sealer that is used to fill larger spaces versus brush over seams? Thanks.

 

There were a number of locations that were seam sealed after the e-coat primer and before paint (underhood, cowl, doorjambs). Probably just done for aesthetic reasons. You don't need to do it that way and especially if it won't be seen, I would do the seam sealer after paint.

The factory used a few different types of seam sealers, but these days they can all be replaced with a urethane based seam sealer, which is a far superior product than any of the sealers that were used when these cars were built.

I like the 3M UltraPro urethane sealer for most everything. It can be painted over, but doesn't need to be. Also will need the proper 3M applicator gun.


The only place I used a different sealer was the cowl. This Eastwood brushable sealer goes on thick and self levels and can be painted over, so it works well for the cowl area.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brush-on...ce=google&wv=4

 

Thanks. I think I will go with DP90 and then seam sealer on top of that followed by top coat paint. I am using a urethane single stage top coat paint in areas that are not really visible like behind the bumper covers, engine bay, and on the interior of the body. I have the body completely disassembled to fix multiple areas other than the tail panel.

I just ordered the Eastwood brushable seam sealer. I ordered two quarts since I have a lot of other areas to seal. I looked at the 3M seam sealer but didn't find the 3M applicator gun. Do you have a link to the 3M gun? I also see the 3M seam sealer in a cartridge so was wondering if that is the same as the sealer in the foil pack. If so, then maybe I order some of that although guessing that is more expensive. I do have a new Dewalt powered caulking gun that I bought for the 3M cartridge windshield adhesive so I assume that would work for the 3M cartridge seam sealer.

 

The 3M applicator gun is a bit pricey @ $150, but it works well.


Not sure if the 3M cartridge seam sealer is the same stuff, but if it's 3M and urethane, should be fine. In that case, any standard manual or electric caulk gun would work.

 

Thanks for the help. I ordered two cartridges of the seam sealer and will try it with my Dewalt electric caulk gun.

 

Well, I screwed up my own plan. I decided to repaint the top of the strut bearing mounting plates on the inner wheel well at the same time as the rear tail panel since I am putting on new strut bearing assemblies and will be repainting the engine bay. So, I primed those with DP90 and primed the rear tail panel at the same time. I have had the front wheels off and strut bearing removed for some time working on the front. I wanted to roll the car out of the shop to clean the engine bay before repainting it so went ahead and top coated the strut mounting plates with Omni MTK. That way I could put the strut bearings back on and mount the wheels without having to take them back off again later. I forgot to seam seal the rear tail panel and shot it with the Omni MTK finish coat at the same time as I did the strut bearing mounting plates. So, I guess the seam sealer will go on top of the finish coat. Hope that works ok. I could put another coat of Omni MTK over the seam sealer I guess but being the tail panel except where the license plate holder is the panel will be hidden by the taillights and the rear bumper cover.