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At 55 I have decided to try my hand at painting a car... My normal paint/body guy is going to give me direction as I go. I found this car, body is clean as far as rust, but we do have a door dent to repair. I figured this was as good a car to start with as any as the odometer shows 92K miles, but the numbers don't line up, so who knows how many miles it truly has. It runs/shifts great and doesn't leak any fluids which is another plus! Tear down has begun....I'll try to add photos as I go along.
relpalce the door.
by the time you do the labor and materials to fix that dent, a $50 replacement door will be much easier.
^^This, IMHO. That dent is in the worst spot! The door crash bar is behind it, making moving the skin metal back out a real challenge, if you can do it at all. The dent goes all the way back to the back edge/seam for the outer skin, so that'll be an extra challenge to get right in the door jamb and the skin. Additionally, if you don't pull/push it out, the amount of body putty will result in a really bad repair showing up sooner, than later.
Maybe try your hand at pulling it out while you search for a rust-free replacement door, and see which happens first?
Those rub strips do not look OEM. Pull and replace with something that looks more OEM-like, if that's even possible. Alternately, leave them off for a cleaner look.
Prep is 95% of the paint job. That paint is very tired, I'd get rid of all of it if you can. I put some 'sweat equity' into a paint job on my 71 Trans Am, spending about 3 days wet-sanding the primer getting ready for paint. By day 2, I could feel the imperfections in the surface where I was working. It's a great skill, but I didn't keep up with it. Sadly, the painter/body guy took some shortcuts that eventually showed through after the paint was applied. Where there was no body work, though, the finish was awesome!
Other than the dent, and the clear coat that has left the chat, that car looks pretty clean! Nice catch!!
Suggest getting a body panel (that dented door?) and go through the whole process on that part. I tried it on a hood and burned out just trying to get through the factory paint down to bare metal. If you don't have patience or the right tools/facility or persistence in fixing your mistakes it will be a frustrating experience you will not be happy with the end result (esp if it finishes like a DIY job and you did not intend that.) That car has little imperfections you don't see yet and will have to decide if you are going to overlook them or develop the skill to make them go away. Just my 2 cents.
^^This, IMHO. That dent is in the worst spot! The door crash bar is behind it, making moving the skin metal back out a real challenge, if you can do it at all. The dent goes all the way back to the back edge/seam for the outer skin, so that'll be an extra challenge to get right in the door jamb and the skin. Additionally, if you don't pull/push it out, the amount of body putty will result in a really bad repair showing up sooner, than later.
Maybe try your hand at pulling it out while you search for a rust-free replacement door, and see which happens first?
Those rub strips do not look OEM. Pull and replace with something that looks more OEM-like, if that's even possible. Alternately, leave them off for a cleaner look.
Prep is 95% of the paint job. That paint is very tired, I'd get rid of all of it if you can. I put some 'sweat equity' into a paint job on my 71 Trans Am, spending about 3 days wet-sanding the primer getting ready for paint. By day 2, I could feel the imperfections in the surface where I was working. It's a great skill, but I didn't keep up with it. Sadly, the painter/body guy took some shortcuts that eventually showed through after the paint was applied. Where there was no body work, though, the finish was awesome!
Other than the dent, and the clear coat that has left the chat, that car looks pretty clean! Nice catch!!
The actual body work/dent repair is going to be done by my paint/body guy. I will go with whatever route he suggests on the door. He is very good (doing work currently on vin#001 1970 Camaro), so I trust his judgement. Once he has the door dent, other small dents done and body panels aligned, I will then start the sanding process.
Good for you taking on this challenge. It all can be done and done well, just going slow, being patient, and taking the time to do it right. Good that you have an experienced friend to help guide you. As others have already said, I agree with replacing that door.
Black is tough as it shows everything, but that's OK. It just means you need to take more time getting everything straight and flat, use long blocks and guide coat and get it right. Just keep working it until its dead flat. Don't be in a rush to lay down paint, wait until it's right.
I would also suggest doing some practice painting before attempting to paint the whole car. It takes a bit to dial in your spray gun setup, spray technique, getting comfortable with mixing the product, reducer, hardner, flash time, etc. Read the instruction sheets from the paint/primer and follow them. Practicing on a small panel and get everything right will result in a better overall job on the car. The paint materials are expensive, would be lot's of money and time wasted to have to sand and respray the car.
I would also suggesting using quality materials. Filler, primer and paint. It doesn't have to be real expensive high end stuff, but at least use collision-shop level products (ex. BASF Limco line) and work with your local auto body supply house, they will be a good resource for what products to use.
Good for you taking on this challenge. It all can be done and done well, just going slow, being patient, and taking the time to do it right. Good that you have an experienced friend to help guide you. As others have already said, I agree with replacing that door.
Black is tough as it shows everything, but that's OK. It just means you need to take more time getting everything straight and flat, use long blocks and guide coat and get it right. Just keep working it until its dead flat. Don't be in a rush to lay down paint, wait until it's right.
I would also suggest doing some practice painting before attempting to paint the whole car. It takes a bit to dial in your spray gun setup, spray technique, getting comfortable with mixing the product, reducer, hardner, flash time, etc. Read the instruction sheets from the paint/primer and follow them. Practicing on a small panel and get everything right will result in a better overall job on the car. The paint materials are expensive, would be lot's of money and time wasted to have to sand and respray the car.
I would also suggesting using quality materials. Filler, primer and paint. It doesn't have to be real expensive high end stuff, but at least use collision-shop level products (ex. BASF Limco line) and work with your local auto body supply house, they will be a good resource for what products to use.
Good luck
Thanks for the advice! My painter did give me an old fender to use as a practice panel as you suggested. As you said, I am in no rush. My goal is to have it done by spring sometime, luckily I have a building that I can work in year round, which will help. Again, appreciate the tips and positive vibes!
IMHO spend a little extra on a few junkyard parts (a hood, fender etc.. .
And spend a little bit on some materials for paint so you can get a feel for painting. If you mess up on your car, youll have to redo everything that you painted.
I started on my trucks actual cowl and messed it up...had to resand prinme etc... then messed it up again.. had to resand prime etc.... then finally realized the info / technique I was given was wrong (at least for me / my setup).... ....
If I had a few extra panels lying around I could have easily learned without the issue of having to repair / fix something I had messed up on wihc wil lcost in time frustaration etc...
IMHO spend a little extra on a few junkyard parts (a hood, fender etc.. .
And spend a little bit on some materials for paint so you can get a feel for painting. If you mess up on your car, youll have to redo everything that you painted.
I started on my trucks actual cowl and messed it up...had to resand prinme etc... then messed it up again.. had to resand prime etc.... then finally realized the info / technique I was given was wrong (at least for me / my setup).... ....
If I had a few extra panels lying around I could have easily learned without the issue of having to repair / fix something I had messed up on wihc wil lcost in time frustaration etc...
Not that I have my wife's master bath project done, I can get back to the car. Got the wheels off, need to get the tires swapped over to the old set of 91/92 wheels i grabbed for $100. Will be taking the Iroc wheels down to LKQ for refinishing next week. Will be starting to sand on the car this weekend!
I'm not a paint and body guy, but I'd suggest doing whatever possible to repair and retain the door. That's the door (jamb) with the GM decals, by which future judgements will be made about the car. At most, replace the skin, if possible, but not the whole door. With a pro doing the body work, I'd think he's probably capable of saving the door.
I'm not a paint and body guy, but I'd suggest doing whatever possible to repair and retain the door. That's the door (jamb) with the GM decals, by which future judgements will be made about the car. At most, replace the skin, if possible, but not the whole door. With a pro doing the body work, I'd think he's probably capable of saving the door.
I'm not a paint and body guy, but I'd suggest doing whatever possible to repair and retain the door. That's the door (jamb) with the GM decals, by which future judgements will be made about the car. At most, replace the skin, if possible, but not the whole door. With a pro doing the body work, I'd think he's probably capable of saving the door.
I agree. My guy says he can fix the door and I've had him do enough work that I trust what he is telling me.
Those look great. Did they machine the faces as well?
Thanks. Yes, they did machine them.. If anyone in NE Indiana is curious, they were $160 each to get done. Turn around time was about 2 weeks. The place is in Warren, IN, just south of Ft Wayne.
Thanks. Yes, they did machine them.. If anyone in NE Indiana is curious, they were $160 each to get done. Turn around time was about 2 weeks. The place is in Warren, IN, just south of Ft Wayne.
Well, been a while, but we are getting there. My paint/body guy got the door and a couple other small dents taken care of. Car is now in primer with guide cote on.
Is the plan to paint the car assembled or apart?
I know there are pros and cons to both ways, and am wondering what other people tend to do.
For me I think I will prime the panels apart, then assemble and sand to body lines line up, then take apart to paint. I am still a ways away from getting to where you are, just curious what your strategy is going to be.
Is the plan to paint the car assembled or apart?
I know there are pros and cons to both ways, and am wondering what other people tend to do.
For me I think I will prime the panels apart, then assemble and sand to body lines line up, then take apart to paint. I am still a ways away from getting to where you are, just curious what your strategy is going to be.
I plan to remove the hood when I paint the car, then paint the hood and all removed parts while off the car then assemble. Once I have the final sanding done, I still have to prime the front facia and rear bumper. Once that is done, I will paint the removed parts first, doing the hood and body last. My thought is to paint the smaller parts first to get additional time with the gun and setup prior to tackling the larger areas that I will be paint. If I make a mistake on a trim piece, time to correct it will not be nearly as time consuming.
I plan to remove the hood when I paint the car, then paint the hood and all removed parts while off the car then assemble. Once I have the final sanding done, I still have to prime the front facia and rear bumper. Once that is done, I will paint the removed parts first, doing the hood and body last. My thought is to paint the smaller parts first to get additional time with the gun and setup prior to tackling the larger areas that I will be paint. If I make a mistake on a trim piece, time to correct it will not be nearly as time consuming.
I would also suggest taking the hatch off when you paint the body. The jamb around the hatch will come out a lot better.
I just finished painting and assembly of my car. The hood was the last thing I painted. Two reasons, I wanted as much "gun" time before painting the most looked at part of the car, plus storage consideration. I did not want to keep the painted parts in the garage. I tried to keep them in the house when I could, but the wife would not have a hood in the dining room during the holidays! I thought it would pretty cool background for family pictures. My order of painting was I removed everything except for the doors. Painted the jambs first for experience. Then painted the mirrors, spoiler, for more experience. After that I painted the body (with doors), back bumper cover. Then decided to paint the radiator support, inner fender wells (up to the strut mounts) battery tray etc. As this progressed, I found more parts to paint hood latch assembly, etc. I tackled the ground effects (grey/silver) except for the front spoiler. Then fenders, bumper cover, front spoiler, and then the last was the hood. I assembled as I went since I found storage was at a premium in my two-car garage. I did end up storing a lot of small parts in my home office, including the interior parts as I reconditioned them. After this long rambling post, what I am trying to say is storage of freshly painted parts is a big factor in a home paint job. Not to mention I purchased two inflatable paint booths. One large enough for the car itself and a smaller one big enough for fenders, bumper covers, etc. In the end I barely had any room to walk around in the garage, and I am pretty picky about garage conditions, everything in its place.
I too have a two car garage that I will be painting in. I was planning to paint parts and as they cure in the garage, carefully carry then to my basement for storage, where 90% of the car is now.
When the door are painted on the car, how do you guys paint the hinges area? Is it just shoot the paint in there and hope for the best?
I know it is not a high visibility area.
I have my doors down to bare metal now, just about, and was looking at them and thinking "this is a great way to paint the jams of the car and the doors, then assemble to pain the skins when I do the body.
I too have a two car garage that I will be painting in. I was planning to paint parts and as they cure in the garage, carefully carry then to my basement for storage, where 90% of the car is now.
When the door are painted on the car, how do you guys paint the hinges area? Is it just shoot the paint in there and hope for the best?
I know it is not a high visibility area.
I have my doors down to bare metal now, just about, and was looking at them and thinking "this is a great way to paint the jams of the car and the doors, then assemble to pain the skins when I do the body.
My jams are in good shape. I am planning to tape them off from overspray and clean them up really good when done.
I know this is a DIY thread, and also a loaded question, but for comparison purposes what's the ballpark on a professional paint job? Assume no bodywork is needed aside from normal prep. And a cruise level job, not showcar perfection.
I know this is a DIY thread, and also a loaded question, but for comparison purposes what's the ballpark on a professional paint job? Assume no bodywork is needed aside from normal prep. And a cruise level job, not showcar perfection.
And the DIY guys, what are you in for so far?
The trick is finding a guy that isn't going to bend you over on paint, but after doing this project, I do see why it costs what it does. It's not uncommon for it to easily be $10K+ to have a car painted.... My guy will paint a car for me for $4000-$5000 depending on how much prep is needed, and it is a quality job.... As far as what I have in this so far, primer/paint/clear about $1500, another $1500 for my paint/body guy to remove the dents and align panels. I'll be about $3500 into it when I am done as I know there will be a few more odd/ends i'll need to get.. As most will tell you, prep is the main part, but also make sure to use quality paint/clear. You can have a $1000 SATA gun, but if you are spraying crap paint, it won't look very good. That also works in reverse, you can have quality product and a "decent" gun and end up with a nice paint job.
Ibut for comparison purposes what's the ballpark on a professional paint job?
the word professional means diddly squat these days.
i work out of my house, paint in my garage, and have had magazine cars, sema cars, best of show winners and all that..
It's the person doing the body work is where it counts.
Any person can spray paint, and you can hire a detailer to come to your place and color sand/buff it afterwards.
But in the end, it's the guy who does the body work.
I charge roughly $650 per panel for labor on a 'stock' paint job, plus materials.
I have also charged $38k on a paint job. So in the end it's all labor, pure labor.
This is helpful perspective, thanks. I'm close to pulling the trigger on a 3rd gen that needs paint. The body is in overall good shape but the existing paint is faded and peeling. I'm trying to assess the options while having zero paint experience, but always willing to DIY.
Got some of the ground effects painted today. Will probably do the front/rear bumpers next weekend. Have one run I have to deal with, but overall they look good.
Do the GFX and bumpers need to have additive added to them for flex?
What brand primer, paint and gun are you using?
Not using any flex agent. Products are:
Primer/Paint - Shopline Products
Clearcoat/Activator - Transtar Products
Guns - I am using an Inokraft D1 LVLP gun off Amazon. 1.7 tip for primer and 1.3 tip for paint/clear. I also have a black widow HTE gun from Harbor Freight, but prefer using the Inokraft. Both are fairly inexpensive.
Looks great! Any special prep to the shop area to get ready for the paint?
I am planning on draping my entire garage in plastic and getting the floor wet.
