zupmanZ28

i'm trying to set up my rear disc brakes (swapping rears actually, old rear was drum, new rear is disc), and i can't seem to figure out how it all goes together and where and how the lines are run. The brakes came in a box so i have no idea what its supposed to look like. These are the older style disc's, not the pbr caliper ones.

I especially need to see the drivers side from as many angles as you can get, along with the ebrake linkage setup on both sides.

Thanks in advance

Eric

RB83L69

Which disk system? (cast iron Saginaw, or aluminum PBR)

zupmanZ28

they're the older style iron calipers, not the pbrs. Sorry, should have made that more visible in the first post...

Eric

RB83L69

Oh... sorry to hear that

I don't have any pics of those. When I see them I RUN AWAY!!!! I could take a pic of PBRs though.

TomP

(laughs) I still don't think I got the routing of the driver's side e-brake cable correct after my swap. I took pictures, but have no idea where they are; and the rear is off my car in the backyard, so that picture won't help.

How did the brakes come in a box? Did you buy new calipers separately, and new lines separately, and new hardware separately? From what I remember, the caliper was the same for both sides. Driver's side got a flex hose going to the caliper from the axle's hard line. Passenger side used a steel line directly to the caliper- makes pad changes a pain, because you have to undo the rear lower control arm bolt to remove the caliper.

The axle-to-body flex hose is the same part # as for a drum rear... but you might want to replace it anyway, especially if it's an old hose.

E-brake lines followed pretty much the exact same routing as for the drums, but I didn't take a before/after picture of my driver's side, and it looks like it sticks out too far- might be because it was an aftermarket (Raybestos) line.

AGood2.8

center brake line to housing hard line.

AGood2.8

Left (drivers side) Disc is in rear of housing with E-brake cable. I tried to lighten the contrast for you to see. Left side has no soft line to caliper- hard line attaches direct.

AGood2.8

Right side caliper is in front of housing. This is standard location from factory.

AGood2.8

right rear with wheel off.
p.s.- These binders work great if you set them up with the correct components. This car will put you through the windshield.

zupmanZ28

thats exactly what i needed to see man...

Thanks a TON:hail:

Eric

TomP

Thanks for the correction! I always get those sides mixed up.. somehow I tie the steel line to the caliper in with the bolt that has to be removed (passenger side) to get the caliper off.

http://www.classictube.com sells stainless steel rear brake line kits for a pretty good price, I think $50. It just comes with the two lines for the axle. And of course you can buy the whole brake line kit for an f-body, if you have the cash!

zupmanZ28

well i got everything figured out. hardest part of the whole damn swap was bending the brake line at the proportioning valve without pinching it...

and i don't what people are talking about with brakes sucking. If these things suck then my drum brakes plain didn't work. And if these suck then the pbr brakes must be able to pop your eyeballs out...

They feel way better than my drum brakes did, and the drums only had about 5k on em...

Eric

TomP

They only really suck if they don't have the recall parts installed (for 82-88). I remember when I got the recall kit installed on that '84 rear of mine that I swapped in- the braking was incredible! I had more fun stopping then I did when I was driving.

AGood2.8

What combo/proportioning valve are you using? If you don't have the 1LE then get it. Part# 14089496.

Also I think I am the only guy on these boards that runs Stillen carbon-matrix pads. They warm up as fast as the tires do and put you seat belt on. They get better the hotter they get also- no fade at all even on a 10.5" rotor. Of course I do have a light weight V6, and the best gripping 16" street tires money can buy.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

I know, I'm late with these. Old rear and brakes:

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

The whole thing:

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Yes they do!!!!




Ed

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

New setup:

(Yes, I'm bored...)

AGood2.8

You have no comparison to base this on- I'll tell you why.

Your first setup look pretty rusty and non functionaldue to neglect.

You then change your entire rear end with new PBR calipers and EBC pads and ALSO change your entire suspension to upgraded performance parts which helps control chassis braking attitude. You most likely also installed braided brake lines on the PBR's that you did not have on the iron calipers either.

Simple fact is that if most of you guys would just upgrade your existing parts you'd find cheap and very adequate results instead of bashing the stock size rotors- they are great for street use.

Again everybody that upgrades to PBR always does so with adding braided lines and performance pads. Save your money and try these first- Its alot less expensive. Its the stock pads and lines that suck, not the caliper and rotor size.

P.S. before anyone bashes me/ Of course bigger is better but not always necessary.
Also put your money into better tires first. I don't care how good your brakes are- if your tire don't grip then you can't use the bigger brakes full potential. If you have great tires AND great brakes- even better.

Dewey316

but what fun is hot rodding if you don't spend money of way overkill parts.

AGood2.8

Agreed- and whats not overkill looking about my setup?

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

i still can't get my rear brakes to work right. i have the PBR on the rear and am thoroughly unimpressed. my rear brakes do not work whatsoever. hopefully a new 4th gen rear will solve this bs.

Dewey316

hehe

no hiem joints on the sway bars, and poly/spherical combo LCAs :-p

only joking with you, your setup is very nice (looks alot like mine in fact.)

AGood2.8

This is actually the wife's ride- otherwise it would be even tighter.

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Um...yes I do. You are correct in saying that the pic I posted of my rear brakes looks rusty and non-functional due to neglect but only to some extent. The car sat idle for 3 months or so before I pulled that rear out, and so you have the excess surface rust on the rotors. The rear calipers were also sticking a bit and not working up to par, due to years of storage, so yes I upgraded them. This turned out to be the most economical way to upgrade my brakes...whole rear for $100 with the brakes and sway bar?? Come on...

I have yet to drive a car with a 100% fully operational '88 and older year model disc/disc braking system just like 90% of the people on the board who have or have had the same problem.

Yes, I also installed Earl's lines all the way around for added braking performance. But I also have them on the front of my disc/drum J50-equipped '91 RS and the difference by comparison between those 2 systems is like night and day. My RS stops very well for a properly operating stock system, which is indeed great for street and everyday use. I never said anything to bash the stock system, but it just doesn't compare to my 1LEs.

Ed

AGood2.8

I agree drum rear compared to disc rear is night and day. I am talking about iron rear calipers to pbr rear calipers is very little difference when they are both set up the same. Granite the PBR have a slight advantage with the 11.65"rotor over the iron 10.5" but not worth the $600 upgrade - you will have no gain in performance on the street.

Now if you only paid $100 for the rearend with discs- that's fantastic.

I was basing my original coments mostly on the claims from many that the iron calipers suck- stock yes, but modified no.
You see- I like being the underdog when it comes to components in cars. Most people judge things on how big they are (like engine size) rather than what you have done with what you have. I like when people look at for instance my "little brakes" and scratch their head in wonder why this car performs so well. Little facts like they run a little hotter so I can run race pads on the street. Something you guys can do with the PBR's because they run cooler. (whoop's my secret is out)

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

I totally agree with you. Had the iron calipers not been a poor design, I would have kept them. I was gonna rebuild them, but the "new" rear was just the better route to take. My old rear was perfect. I see no use in running super huge drilled and slotted brakes like some guys choose to run, IMO it's all just eye candy. Before I get bashed, I know there is SOME advantage to running a top of the line Baer or Wilwood setup, I can't see the advantage on the street.

Mystikkal,
I don't see what difference the 4th gen rear is gonna make..they have the same brakes???

Ed

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

my pbr are suffering the same problem as the old iron calipers. the calipers' piston does not "ride" the rotor surface. instead it backs away from the rotor so much that it takes the entire pedal travel to make them work. hence the non functioning rear discs and the low/spongy pedal feel. when i rebuilt them, they worked fine for a month and now this .

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

That's odd. Could your guide pins be sticking in the caliper bracket? If these pieces lock up, your caliper isn't allowed to float back and forth. I had to replace a couple because they were bent. I'd check them out. The piston should adjust as the pads are used up but you might not be to that point yet.

Ed

KiLLJ0Y

hey guys help me out... im changing my entire rear end (stock 92 LO3 no posi, drum brakes) with the rear end from my old 86 IROC (posi, disk brakes). and ive ran into a problem. im trying to swap out the E-brake lines.. BUT.. the damn lines WILL NOT come off.

if you are under the car.. looking at the center where the E-brake meets the lines.. there are 2 brackets.. 1 on each side. there is some really weird bolt that is holding on the bracket... its a circle nut, with 3 holes in it.. and the center hold is threaded so i know it can come off.... is there some special tool i need? any other ideas on how to get these lines off? this is the last thing holding me up right now.. and im pressed for time.. some one please help me!!!!!!!!!!!

SLP IROC-Z

iTrader: (1)

3.27 9 bolt w/PBRs

ebmiller88

iTrader: (7)

Hey Dave, that circle nut thing you're looking at is actually your rear seatbelt bolt and those 3 "holes" are where that bracket that holds your brake cable is spot welded to the body. If you dont' take the lines loose at the backing plate near the drums, you cannot take the cables out of the adjuster in the trans tunnel. Take the drum end of the cables loose and this will give you enough slack to get the other end out of the e-brake machanism above the driveshaft.

Ed

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

My rear brakes....and yes they are better!

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Note the thickness of the rotors....

KiLLJ0Y

hey Ed thanks for the info!!... the thing im having trouble with is.. the cables are pinched into those brackets.. i have alot of slack aready.. its that i cant get then out of that half inch slot they put them into... iv tried a breaking bar but.. the damn things are just stuck in there.. wondering if there is some way to get them out..

i already disconected the ebrake bracket... and the lines going to the drums.. now they are on that damn bracket


dave

TomP

Sounds exactly like you need the recall parts... is that what you used in your rebuild? Getting a rebuilt caliper from a parts store doesn't mean you're getting the "new" recall pistons.

mystikkal_69

iTrader: (2)

the problem is these are the pbr's i'm having trouble with. not the old iron. i begining to think i should have fixed those instead. i took a caliper of and remove the pads. the pressed the pedal and then released it. the piston goes outward and then gets pulled back a little bit. sorry for the post jacking .