It is amazing how one question leads off in a tangent and all sorts of information is learned from it. I learn something new almost everyday off this board. Depsite the old saying, you can teach and old dog (me) new tricks.

Ok, back to the subject at hand. Pedal feel is very light. You have to re-educate your feet (I left foot brake when I race) to compensate for the increased braking power. It's very easy to lock the front tires, and just as easy to brake on the verge of a skid, in either wet or dry conditions.
And yes, it does brake like a dream. The difference is incredible. I had the 12" C4's on my car, and then went to the 13" Wilwood setup, and the difference was eye popping. With your going from stock to a Wilwood setup the difference will be even more amazing.

The kit comes with stainless steel brake lines which makes the pedal feel and brake reaction time even quicker. If you do purchase the kit, just take it easy and get used to the new braking power you have. It won't take long, but it's a big change in the way the car handles and brakes. And if you install an adjustable prop valve in the rear brake line, you can easily adjust your front to rear brake bias for maximum braking for your tires, driving conditions, and driving style.

In my mind brakes are something you can't ever have too much of. If you need them (and there will be a time when you will if you drive on the street) they are there for you. It's a good feeling to know you aren't relying on the stock undersized brakes anymore. And, as for the coolness factor, yes they definitely are attention grabbers. I lost a tire due to a road hazard (dang fingernail clipper handle) and you should have seen the tire guy when he pulled my front tire off and saw the brakes. He grabbed half the people in the shop and showed them. Was funny, they said "Oh, that's the first time you saw this car....geez you are new aren't you". Made me laugh.

Anyway, if you have any questions please feel free to contact me or Steve Spohn and we will do our best to help you.

Dan

 

Sounds very good. If it locks the tires very easily, you'd be skidding into cars, rather than stopping, am I right? lol

I always drive w/ two feet, so, having one on the brake always won't be a problem

I plan on getting the Wilwood Proportioning Valve as well. Even if I get the Baer's to lock up w/ the Wilwoods up front, I don't want to be skidding everywhere. I would imagine that would happen if they all lock up, am I wrong?

 

locking them up at 40 is one thing, my c4's do that

but they saved my butt hauling the car down from 100. at that speed they don't lock the wheels, but they do stop the car in a hurry, the wilwoods would do even better.

not to mention that i can stop over and over and over without fading.

 

Oh, gotcha. That makes sense. Thanks!

 

Alloy: Can you send me the pics from the CD that comes w/ the Brake Kit? I want to see what it is to modify the spindles. That would be great if you could give me the info in advance.

 

The Wilwood setup has the ability to lock the front tires at virtually any speed, over and over again. But the key word is "ability". I have the ability to go jump off a cliff also, but choose not to. It's like Dewey said, the C4's can lock the brakes at 40, but not at 100. The Wilwood's could, if necessary, lock them at virtually any speed. But again, this all depends on driver input. The harder you press, the more braking power they apply. It's there if you need it, when you need it.

Another nice feature about the Wilwood caliper is that there are around 8 different pad compounds available. From wild to mild, all changeable with one bolt per side. No messing with the caliper. Just pop the wheel off, take one bolt out, pull the old pads and slide the new (or different compound) pads in. I'm running "Q" pads now for the winter and everyday street driving, and would recommend this compound to you.
Again, if you have any questions, just let me know.
Dan

 

I can't send you the pics off the CD that is supplied with the kit. They are property of andyz28 and I believe copywrited. So I can't legally and morally give his hard earned info away without his permission, but I can point you to Daniel Burk's web page on upgrading to 1LE brakes. The spindle mods he shows are exactly the same as for the 1LE setup. Nothing esle is the same, but the spindle mods are. It's fairly easy to do. A hacksaw, drill and bit, and a tap. Along with a file or drill with a sanding disk to knock the sharp edges off the spindle after cutting it.

Here's the link.

http://www.ws6transam.org/1LEbrake.html

 

Thanks for the link. Sounds like a good deal. I'm going to check it out now. Thanks for your help!

 

You are welcome.