Here's a few pics of my progress...

 

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Obviously, I am not done yet, no pads in as some of you have noticed. I will finish up tomorrow. Here's what I have done:
Eibach Pro springs
Bilstein struts/shocks
Moog front end parts, ball joints, tie rods, etc.
BMR panhard support (should be here tomorrow!)
Spohn panhard
Spohn tie rod adjusters
Z06 'vette brakes
I am also going to be puttin on new tires in a few weeks once I get the car back from the body shop. Oh, I also upgraded from power windows to manual windows!!

Thanks for looking...

 

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Did you paint you Bilsteins? Anyways, the brakes look sweet. Tell us how they stop once you get those pads in.

 

Yeah, the yellow was cracking and flaking. It looked like hell, so I rattle canned em. Now they match, isn't that super!!!

 

Do the z06 brakes bolt on? How hard are they to do?

 

More or less...

You need to modify spindle, takes about 1-2 hours for both max. Then you need to get some brackets to bolt the caliper carrier to the spindle where you modified it. Then you need to get a hub. I bought the hubs and said brackets from a guy who is on these boards a while back. Then I bought the calipers, abutments, and necessary hardware from gmpartsdirect. Saves a ton over dealer prices. Plus I wanted everything to be new, not reman...

After that, it all bolts up. And its really easy to do spindle mod.

 

I went for a quick test drive this morning. They feel pretty good. I didn't get into to much cause everything is still new and the frontend nees alignment after I get it from the body shop. Pulls pretty bad to the right!! However, with just light to medium pressure, the brakes feel much better. I can't wait to get the car back to really test em...

 

I was always taught to never let my calipers hang like that

But nice work!!!

 

You're right, but they are the old calipers with the old hoses...

Everything I put on is new

 

where did you get those z06 breaks? was it hard to install? i think it looks really sweet!

 

I bought most of the parts from gmpartsdirect.com. I found another website from searching around the boards for a member that makes a few of the necessary parts to make this basically a bolt on affair. Then you need to modify the spindle. Not hard, if you want more specifics on this let me know and I will PM you about it. After that the whole thing just bolts together. The only thing I would say is that I believe this combo requires 17" or larger wheels to clear the caliper. I believe the LS1 Camaro brakes some guys are doing fit behind 16s but don't quote me on that. Anyway, I went a little further and had the spindles and abutment powdercoated to make it all look sharp for those pics!! Once you get all the parts together and mod you spindle, you can put these brakes on in like an hour. Very simple, and so far, very satisfying...

 

Man those are nice i could do this pretty easy since i alrdy have 1LE spindles but Then ide have to buy 17's. Also are these suppose to work well with the stock MC and Prop Valve. Well the 1LE prop valve i have. Those would look great behind some ZO6 wheels.

 

I am using my stock Master and prop valve. I just have a wimpy drum rear setup, but one day I will add discs to the rear. When that happens I'll get a new prop valve...

BTW, I like the way they look behind my wheels

 

Im bout to buy all new brakes ,rotors ,calipers, pads all and braided lines i cant wait. My ebrake might actually work after 3 yrs lol.

 

Sorry 1 more thing you should switch over too silicone brake fluid its awsome stuff. Doesnt collect moisture,higher boiling point and doesnt effect your paint job if u spill some.

 

Ahh, the purple stuff, I always thought that was for mustangs since it is girlie colored, lol j/k. Silicone brake fluid is also considered a "lifetime brake fluid". Hopefully you did a good flush because it doesnt mix with Glycol based fluids.

But like you said, its isnt hygroscopic (abosorbs moisture) which is why I wouldnt run it. I run 5.1 (aka 3/4) which is a synthetic brake fluid. Its cheaper than 5.0, it has the same 500*F boiling point, but most important to me is that it does abosorb water. I want it to get rid of all non compressables for me as it can. Because water boils and releases air, which we all know is bad because it can be compressed.

 

Im confused why would you want it to absorb water.

 

Because of Pascal's law :

A change in the pressure applied to an enclosed incompressible fluid is transmitted undiminished to every portion of the fluid to the walls of its container.

Basically it means that fluids are not compressible. Want to see how it works? Take a long neck beer bottle and fill it COMPLETELY with water, now hold the bottle by the neck. Smack the top of it with your hand and the bottom will blow off. This is because liquids don’t compress.

Air on the other hand is compressible, that’s why you bleed your breaks. You remove air because it makes your breaks less effective. When you push on the break pedal(with air in the system), it pushes pressure through the entire system and instead of applying the breaks with full force, it uses its pressure to compress the air instead of clamp the pads to the rotors.

Also, remember that the reason moisture is bad in the system is because water boils and releases air....

 

Exactly which is why its good to use so you dont get any water in ur system.

 

Its absorbs it, the silicone keeps it separate.

Let me explain more, Silicone fluid and water(or glycol base brake fluids) do not mix, they are like oil and water, which make the water boil and release air.

 

but hygroscopic fluid absorbs the water, which doesnt allow it to boil. It only reduces the fluids boiling point down from when it was new.

 

But you shouldnt get any water in ur system if it is full of silicone right.

 

In a perfect world yes, lol

You shouldnt get any water in your system ever. It just happens, and when it does with silicone you have an instant boiling point of 212*F down from the original 500*F

Untill the water boils away, but then you have air in the system and it needs to be bled.

 

I didn't go with any synthetic or silicone brake fluid. I just flushed the system with DOT 4 fluid. Maybe after I get some work done to the rear brakes and change MC and prop valve, I will flush and put in synthetic or silicone fluid. Anyway I don't see the need for myself...

 

Don't try and get fancy with brake fluid- Just run DOT4 fluid and your fine.

If you race(on a closed circuit- not autoX) then change it out after the race from extreme temps. Otherwise, just blled new fluid into the system about every 2 years. No need for silicone BS, I don't trust it. Use what everyone has for years and has worked fine.

DOT3 &4.

 

We just went off on a small tangent, lol. Just wanted to give some info.

sorry to get off topic..

 

Me i just like the clean look of the silicone and heard all good things about it. Unless i seem some hard evadence proving wrong.

 

http://www.shotimes.com/SHO3brakefluid.html
http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml
http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/fluid.shtml

 

Setup looks good. I'm planning the same swap next month. Where did you get the braided lines from?

 

Use a set of front 1LE lines...


Ed

 

Can you clarify why using the 1LE hoses is better? And do you mean stock rubber 1LE hoses or braided ones made to fit the 1LE setup?

 

The 1LE hoses are longer the original hoses will be too short and you can use rubber or braided which ever you perfer but braided will give you a better pedal.

 

Ok great....I had a feeling the 1LE's must have been longer. Any tips on a good place to order the braided stainless ones from for a decent price?

 

If i can remember i think i got mine from spohn. Summit also has them.

 

As well as causing the caliper internals to rust if they are cast iron...

 

Mine did the same thing. Where did Bilstein learn to paint??

Brakes look good.

 

the color you spray bombed them looks like the SLP struts or kyb agx's...brakes look great

 

So is it basically like doing the LS1 Front Brake Conversion? I sent you a PM... I'm really interested in doing something like this on my car... where'd you get the hubs and brackets from?