has anybody done this??? what kind of paint should i use...i bought a couple bottles of just regular krylon spray paint for metal and some krylon clear coat...will this work or do i need to go out and buy brake paint??? my buddy said that it needs to be brake paint because brake paint is made for higher temps or something...am i alright with just reg. spray paint or should i return the spray paint and get some brake paint???

 

Topic has been discussed several times. Do a search.

 

I used dupli-color high heat engine paint. 3.99 a can!

 

alright i got some high temperature paint from car quest...the really good stuff...so i wanna do it right the first time...what should I clean the caliper up with to make sure the paint will stick???

 

I did this once in my life, and I did use specific Hightemp brake caliper paint. It worked faily well over time. I know others that uses standard hightemp paint and it flaked off just like headers do. These calipers were brand new when I sprayed them. I paintd three light coats over three days and they sat to cure for a week before I installed them. They are now on KED85's car I gave them to him., including the Tokico shocks.

 

I like them better black anodized. It doesn look so kiddish.

 

alright..it looks like i'm geting new calipers too...so i'll just paint those, and i won't have to clean the new ones, just rub em down with acetone or something...can you just drill holes in your rotors to give it better cooling or do you have to buy the rotors drilled and slotted??

 

mine are gonna be silver so they won't stick out like a soar thumb with the red body paint...i agree, some people paint them some bright colors and they look horrible...

 

The upper ones (10.5'" rotors) were CNC drilled and rebalanced acordingly- You can't just dill them yourself on a drillpress, They need to be percision aligned both radiusly and between the cooling vanes.
The lower picture (12.2" rotors) was casted that way and then "cleaned up" drilled and zincwashed. Its a much stronger process and perfered for rotor integrity. I now have larger surface area enven with the drilled and slotted material missing + I have less rotation weight than the others even though they are larger. drilling made them lighter.

 

Does the small amount of mass removed during drilling really make a noticeable difference?

 

They are a 1/4 of a lb lighter each side from the same exact rotors not drilled and slotted. Thats a total 1/2lb less rotation mass AND on the outer 2" of the rotation radius. Even with the mass drill out making less surface area, these rotors have more surface area with drills and slots (67 sq in.) compared to the 10.5 rotors without drills or slots (59 sq in.) AND have more leverage for power.

All in all, the lighter weight larger rotors are about a direct wash in rotation mass because even though they are lighter weight, they are in fact a larger diameter producing more polar weight to rotate- its about a direct wash, yet I have much cooler running brakes and more braking power.

acceleration properties are equal
Braking properties are better.

This is a perfect example how drilled rotors can be a benefit.

 

when i did my ls1 brakes, i bead blasted the calipers and just put a couple coats of rustoleum heavy duty on, and its held up just fine for 7k miles. i painted them red, but atleast they match the car

 

I used high temp paint from por 15 and I just used their cleaner and then their acid type prep stuff and never had a problem.