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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 06:14 PM
  #1  
90-irocdx3's Avatar
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From: santa barbara,ca
Car: 1990 iroc z
Engine: LSX 376 F1A
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.42
brake question

i was looking at these brakes as for everyday driving what do you think?the heavy duty version. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...85&prmenbr=361
thanks,bryan
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 09:28 PM
  #2  
vsixtoy's Avatar
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From: Orange, Calif
Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Regardless of what the add is saying, I have talked to the guy that makes those aluminum hubs assemblies for Wilwood and he does not recommend them on a daily driver. Says some have in fact cracked on people. The rotrs are also only .810" thick and will overheat trying to stop a 3400lb 3rdgen repetitively. They are "drag race only" applications on our 3rd gens.
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 10:55 AM
  #3  
pvt num 11's Avatar
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From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
How about cross-drilled or slotted rotors? Overkill for a daily driver? (I don't like cross-drilled anyway.) I was told by a 4th-gen autocrosser that all I would really need for daily issues (and occasional auto-x) would be some Hawk green pads. Something like that. I can get slotted rotors for the back for less than what stock rear rotors would cost. Should I?
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 04:18 PM
  #4  
VILeninDM's Avatar
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From: Rochester, NY
haven't looked into brakes for my car yet, but I've heard drilled or slotted is not a way to go. Ever. The whole idea with those was that as you brake, heat will produce gases which will prevent brakes from working right (this is called brake fade, I think). Slots and holes were designed as a way for the gasses to escape.

But the thing is that new materials used in pads these days don't produce any gasses when heated anyway, so slots and holes don't really serve a purpose. Some people just like the way they look. Downside is that all those edges created by these things eat away at your pads way faster than regular rotors.
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 07:45 PM
  #5  
pvt num 11's Avatar
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From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
I'm sure the decrease in rotor surface contact against the pad may play a role too, however slight. Plus, wouldn't a drilled rotor be structurally weaker, unless cast WITH the holes? I'm not a metalurgist (sp), but it would seem to me that randomly (or not-so-randomly) drilling holes may weaken the rotor.
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 08:09 PM
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From: Roscoe, IL
Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
yes, it will infact make the rotor very weak. cross drilling is just the term they use, they are cast with the holes, the good ones atleast. like most things, you get what you pay for in rotors
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 06:37 PM
  #7  
90-irocdx3's Avatar
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From: santa barbara,ca
Car: 1990 iroc z
Engine: LSX 376 F1A
Transmission: 4l60e
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt 3.42
i gues i will continue to look around for a setup, i just dont wat to pay $1500.00 for a better brake conversion.
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Old Dec 2, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #8  
ebmiller88's Avatar
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
You can spend around $800 and have the same brakes as a Baer Track kit...it's called the 13" C4 HD brake upgrade. I have them and they're great.


Ed
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