I am in desperate factual help on the following brake line fitting sizes for a tech project I am going to be doing next. I am going to be fitting and "In Cockpit" adjsutable prop valve and need the following thread sizes and pitches so I can try to do this with over the counter parts for the do-it-yourselfer. I just don't like trying to self make flared ends with hand held flaring tools- thats scary. I'd like to get a factual factory thread sizing for a starting point.

A= ?

B= ?

C= 10mm x M1.0 pitch / ISO Bubble flare

D= 10mm x M1.0 pitch / ISO Bubble flare

E= ?

F= 10mm x M1.0 pitch / ISO Bubble flare

G= ?

 

Sorry Dean, I have NFC on the line threads. Anyway to get a hold or a used one and take around and check?

Ed

 

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Interesting, thats actually what I'm in the process of doing too. Or well, check that, I was in the process of doing it until I decided to give up on that chassis. I hope to do it on my 89 IROC drift car. I am using the Wilwood lever adjustable one, mounted in the center console. But I was doing it with a flaring tool, and I agree, it is kinda crappy. Sorry I dont have the info you need.

 

Dean, I've mislaid my note of what these parts are but from what I remember I've added values below. Sorry that I can't be more confident in the sizes. If I find my notes I'll let you know....

A= 3/8 UNF (fairly sure)

B= 7/16 UNC ? (definitly UNC)

C= 10mm x M1.0 pitch / ISO Bubble flare

D= 10mm x M1.0 pitch / ISO Bubble flare

E= 12mm x M1.0 pitch ( I think)/ ISO Bubble flare

F= 10mm x M1.0 pitch / ISO Bubble flare

G= 12mm x M1.0 pitch( I think) / ISO Bubble flare

For the case of flaring tools versus "profesionally" made pipes, I managed better quality flares myself using a cheapish tool, just take an extra bit of pipe and practice, before doing the real pipes.

Si.

 

Even thought you can't vconfirm them- It still gives me more info than I had and something to go after in investigation- Thank you Si and others for the help and imput.

I have tried to do some flares myself in the past with SS lines and it was unsuccessful. I have never tried nor wanted to bother with replacing lines with standard mild steel tubing. I generally like to upgrade anything I touch (hence the conversion attempt to stainless steel on another car in the past.)

I think at this point I will just find a specialist shop to outfit the valve how I want it. I'll position the vavle inside the car interior and have them plumb the lines to it.

The more thought I have into this the more I am leaning towards leaving the 1LE prop valve assembly in place with its factory pressure drop warning switch intact, then just adding the Wilwood adjustable in the rear line mid-drift heading to the rear at about shifter column position. I have an abundance of rear pressure as is stands and need to cut it more. If I do away with the stock prop valve, I am worried that my pedal effort pressure will increase to even less sensitivity (effort) and I want to retain as much effort towards pedal pressure as possible while also retaining the safety warning light.

 

I switched to using pipes of a material called CuproNickel (copper 90%, Nickel 10%) which gets you the corrosion resistance of stainless steel or copper but without the work-hardening problem that copper has. Not sure if it's an option in the states, but its readily available here in Scotland. Also it is one of the few that is certified for use in a racing car here. I haven't used stainless steel, but the cupronickel wasn't hard to work with, though a bit stiffer than copper.

Also another hint for finding the thread size, is that all metric threads the diamater is to the outer of the threads, so if some of it is visible then using a vernier caliper you can measure the diameter of the thread. Much harder to measure the pitch until the pipe is removed, and certainly with metric there is multiple pitch sizes for a given diameter.

Sounds like a good way to go with the prop valve, given the balance of brakes you have.

Si.

 

heh, just did my wilwood valve last week... came out pretty good..



unfortunately.... no one in the world makes female bubble flare-> NPT adapters, so you're going to have to change the line end or run multiple adapters somewhere to connect the wilwood valve...


the only way companys like SLP are able to sell easy to connect aftermarket things like line locks are by selling custom lines with it.. bubble flare on one end, double flare on the other.... and of course you can get standard double flare-> NPT adapters everywhere.......