I have done a search and as far as I can tell out of all the thirdgen nuts on these boards no one has mentioned the new listing in Summit for the Wilwood Superlite 6 big brake kit. I have looked at it for hours and what gets me is they are offering this kit for .........$651. The listing says it comes with a 13" rotor and all necessary hardware. If I am not mistaken this would just about make all brake upgrades to this point obsolete. This really burns me as I have just put a considerable amount of time into an LS1 brake conversion for my ride. Now here is the rub..... If anyone else has the same Summit catalog I do, chack out the part numbers. The part number for the 4 piston 10.75 rotor is the same part number used for the superlite 6 kit. And mysteriously the price is the same also. I pretty much have the summit catalog memorized, so this grabbed me by suprize. Am I seeing things or does this listing really exist, and if it does exist who wants to buy a set of polished, powdercoated LS1 brakes.

 

rest assured its a misprint. The SL-6 calipers alone cost more than that. They are about $400 each. Then there is hubs, rotors, pads, brackets, radial mounts....Trust me

 

I never commented in any of your threads, but I followed your build up, and believe it or not your car was one of the first things I thought about. I remembered the prices you listed. and thought to myself how can they offer this kit for that price. I too think this must be a misprint. I cannot verify this kit any place else on the web and I have been to lazy to pickup the phone. If it is legit I would say you deserve some sort of engineering fee.

 

Looked it up in catalog.

WIL-140-2992-B is same part number as mentioned. I called Summitracing talked to Chris he said it was a misprint and they have no idea what it's suppose to be there and directed me to Wilwood's tech line. 1-805-388-1188

There I was put on hold about 5 times and finally reached Carl. He said Wilwood is very unhappy with SummitRacing... They made a major error in printing.

There is no kits for the 3rd gens in the Big Brake Superlite 6 setup.

Years supported are:

Camaro 93-97
Camaro 98-2002
Camaro 67-69
Camaro 67-79 in a 12" 4 piston setup

Basically he said if you want to cram there 13" rotors in there you will need at least a 17" rim, anyways.


He said only kit they had was the Four piston HD pro-series for the 88-92.

Yea, I solved a problem for today.

 

I think we should email Carl at wilwood and enlighten him to my 3rdgen 6piston setup.

Hell, it wouldn't bother me a bit for them to produce the setup. They could make the brackets no problem and Global west already makes there hubs so they could upgrade to the GW g-body roadrace aluminum hubs I used.
E-mail them my build post. See what they say.

 

Hey thanks for getting on the horn! That is pretty interesting news. I cannot believe Summit made a mistake like that. I am disappointed and happy at the same time. Disappointed that there is not a great new product for thirdgens, but happy I did not finally pull the trigger on brakes just to findout if I would of waited a couple months I could of had some serious stopping power.

BTW RTFC Have you had that six cylinder on the track yet ? How do those monsterous brakes haul that car down?

 

Dave, I have not had sa chance yet to get some repetitive high speed stops into them yet- vbasically I have not gotten them hot or even close to hot.

Right now I have a slight problem with the pad compounds I am running and trying to balance them. I just don't get to drive this car that much by myself (this is the wifes car) and the first chance I was able to steal it for the day and get out to an event where I could sneak it onto the track it was heavily restricted and was only let out with a lunch tour because I was on street tires and no cage.

The front pads are "Q" compound and require heat to raise the friction levels, the rear pads I have already changed down to a "T" compound before I ever installed the front setup because I new from the start I would have too much rear pressure. Problem is when the brakes are cold, the problem is even worse. This is why I want to get some heat into them on a road course first before I change the fronts down to a cold stopper pad because when the friction level rises, the fronts should at that point be much greater friction than the rears and about be balanced without an Adj prop valve.

An "In Cockpit" adjustable Wilwood prop valve is my next project for the car becaus I do need to get rid of those rae pads that came in the 4th gen kit I bought and customised- they moan at low speeds or when wet and the wife is getting mad at me because her car is making noises at very low stop and go speeds through my daughters school parking lot- race pads are notorious for that. I am ordering Hawks HPS pads for all 4 corners, Hawks makes pads that fit both my front and rear Wilwood calipers that are a street compound. The "T"'s claim to be street/track pads and "low noise" but are still slightly moaning on occations when I turn sharp at very slow speeds (2-3mph u-turns). The inside slower spinning pads will make the noise when that wheel is barely moving.

 

Well i have not used Hawk pads on a street car, but I have had great success using them on a Formula SAE car approx 700lbs with driver. They work great with heat or without heat. Very little gassing and not too much material was left on the rotors to make them feel warped. Actually I went to Southern Illinois University and was able to see some testing of race break pads done at the Center of advanced friction studies. The Hawk racing pads rated very well at low and high speeds on the brake dyno. On a more related note one of my buddies who drives a 2000 SS is using the HPS pads with the eradispeed rotors and it has almost been a year and he has had no complaints and that car tears it up at the autocross and makes for a good ride to work everyday. So I think you are on the right track. Not like you needed my confirmation, you have one of the neatest setups I have seen in a while. I really like that V6 with big brakes. The only thing I would probably do is look at trying to morph some 3800 parts with that 2.8,,,, that and probably buy the wife another car:-)

 

Wife loves this car and will not part with it. It has sentimental value. Her Uncle owned it new and pass away years back, we bought it off her cousins in '90. This car handles so great because of the lightweight 60*V6 that I don't want to even go to a heavier 90*V6 3.8. I have a 3.4L that I am building into a one-of-a-kind 3.5L with a custom machined bottomend that I am predicting about 250+ HP out of. Factory race 60*V6 engines have proven to produce "over" 1.5HP per ci naturally asperated back in the early "80's with prototype testing. I have lots of lititure and info on them. On a 2.8L(173CI) that equates to 260+hp. I am building a milder 3.5L. Upper end potential of a fully built 3.5 is about 315hp. The only thing I will be turning accessory wise is the alt and powersteering. Waterpump is a fabricated eletric pump setup which I have never seen done on one of these little engines even in racing stadium trucks.

Note: This car is built for full time street use- in other words, a very very fun daily driver. V8's can not physically handle as well as this small V6 car due to weight bias. I did not build this to be another garage queen- I have my own toys (2 of them- '68 Vette and a '67 Mini Cooper S) that sit in the garage now and are more for full racing and very light street use.

And thats why I built the wifes V6

Here's the 3.5L motor I am working on. Lots of one-of-a-kind custom parts

 

I agree the V6 is a big advantage in the weight department. As far as the 3.8 is concerned, I did not mean to imply that using a 3.8 was the way to go. I have a buddy who has built a Citation for autocrossing using some sort of morphed Chevy 2.8 dirivative. I was under the impression he used hard parts like pistons and such from a 3.8, but I could be wrong. He calims to be pushing 275Hp. I have seriously thought about going that route.