What would be the top 5 things to do to a stock 3rdgen that already has 4-wheel disc brakes?
and are relatively cheap and can help braking times dramatically?

 

how cheap?

good tires, and good pads go a long ways.

beyond that, you start looking at C4HD, C5, LS1, wilwood, etc.

 

I'd talk to Dean but probably pads and rotors.

Ed

 

i was thinking,
pads, rotors, SSB brake lines
and some goos fluaid

 

do the SSB's make that much of a difference ? or is it just clever marketing?

 

rubber rots, anyway the rubber line expands if tons of force is applide to it.... witchs means, all that froce thats now expanding in the rubber line could have been froced to the cailpers makeing the brakes less like a sponge

 

I've my new rotors and bearing on order.

If you don't mind me asking is there a trusted brand for the ssb's?

what would you choose?

cheers

 

Earl's...

Ed

 

Go for the LS1's and don't look back. Definatly glad I did.
I think with all the parts I kept the whole swap around $200 and they look like a million bucks.
Gets my vote for best bang for the buck as far as brakes go.

 

Rather than start another thread.
question.

I know front brakes are larger than rear and do a larger percentage of the braking, but upgrading the just the fronts to an even more powerful braking system cause a problem in braking say.
in a turn or in the rain or both.

I cant think of a way of wording it at the moment. maybe someone will understand (at work, typing quick)

 

Any of the swaps documented on this site will get you at least close as the factory as far as wheel lockup. That's not saying much, but you could always add an adjustable proportioning valve to dial out some of the rear brakes.

 

Getting close on my Wilwoods....

Ed

 

While doing my suspension rebuild on my '89 IROC-Z I also did some minor stuff with the brakes. One of my lines was frayed and I didnt trust it so I had to replace it. And if I had to do one side I might as well do the other, so both fronts. Since I plan to goto bigger brakes later I didnt want to buy any of the good stuff (steel lines, best pads, etc) so I went the budget route. Spent a total of $118 to refresh the front brakes. The fresh rubber line is noticably stronger than the old ones but the real test will come when its time for test drive. I know steel lines are probably better but for the price this is great ($25 each). Took the rotors and got them turned, then busted out the tape, newspaper, and 500 deg engine enamel and painted the hubs up nice. They look awesome and cost a total of $25 to do both. The pads are carbon-metallic, some unknown brand ran me $42. I'll get pictures and test it out this weekend. This isn't some awesome upgrade but around $100 for fresh lines, pads, and rotors ... I'm really happy so far.

 

let us know how it go's and get some pics Mr. crazy-macadema-nuts

 

Hey Ed ! What kind of Wilwoods ????

 

Secret my man, secret...

Ed

 

Are you doing the superlites? That is what will be on my car by the end of the summer. I am not good with part numbers but I will be running the 4 pistons up front with the C5 rotor. A company by the name of Track Time Motor here in Minneapolis is going to be using my car for a prototype kit.

 

Oh Ed; What a tease !!!!!!!!!

 

I am using Forged Billet Superlites (FSLs) but I've yet do decide on which rotor I will use. I'll probably do something with both sizes I'm working on but recommend one over the other or for specific applications, and maybe come up with something with a 2 piece rotor once I have the time to sit down and do some measuring. I'm busy as hell now...

Ed

 

Here's that picture I promised of my new front brakes. Not really a performance upgrade, but more of a servicing the brakes and then painting everything to make it look upgraded (lol). This cost me about $100 for all the parts to do the front end (lines, pads, rotors turned, paint and tape, etc). Rears are next ..