My binders worked great this weekend
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
My binders worked great this weekend
The Wilwood setups were small track tested this weekend finally in Autox. Have to say they worked worderfully it was like sitting on a sofa with my feet up..
Even though I have installed a fixed caliper setup on the rear with the GM floating axle 10bolt, it had absolutely no problem with pad knockoff at the low hard cornering forces. I had plenty of sweet pedal whenever I needed it.
Even though I have installed a fixed caliper setup on the rear with the GM floating axle 10bolt, it had absolutely no problem with pad knockoff at the low hard cornering forces. I had plenty of sweet pedal whenever I needed it.
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
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Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
Originally posted by MrDude_1
so what happened to the "large rotors suck... stick with the 10.5" rotors and put better calipers on" plan??
so what happened to the "large rotors suck... stick with the 10.5" rotors and put better calipers on" plan??
My main point of posting was to relay the info on the rear fixed mounting calipers ona floating axle.
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by RTFC
Please show me a link to where I ever said that and you are quoting me from.
My main point of posting was to relay the info on the rear fixed mounting calipers ona floating axle.
Please show me a link to where I ever said that and you are quoting me from.
My main point of posting was to relay the info on the rear fixed mounting calipers ona floating axle.
yea i know, just giving you a hard time.
Originally posted by AGood2.8
SSBC (Stainless STeel Brake Corp.) Is now offering a lighterweight aluminum dual piston caliper as a direct replacement for the smaller 10.5" rotor cars.
Why is this good?- AutoX guys don't need huge rotors for cooling- just good pad surface area and even pressure applied. The 10.5" rotors are smaller and lighter (less unsprung weight) and have less rotation mass- I argue that they are much better suited for that little edge in autoX ( If roadracing- go to the big brakes, end of subject.)
These new Calipers are lighter and apply more even pressure that the stock Iron sigle piston calipers. Only problem right now?- they are only making "fronts". Hopefully they will offer a rear replacement caliper someday soon, the stock iron caliper rears are the pain in the.....well, rear.
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...maro&year=1987
SSBC (Stainless STeel Brake Corp.) Is now offering a lighterweight aluminum dual piston caliper as a direct replacement for the smaller 10.5" rotor cars.
Why is this good?- AutoX guys don't need huge rotors for cooling- just good pad surface area and even pressure applied. The 10.5" rotors are smaller and lighter (less unsprung weight) and have less rotation mass- I argue that they are much better suited for that little edge in autoX ( If roadracing- go to the big brakes, end of subject.)
These new Calipers are lighter and apply more even pressure that the stock Iron sigle piston calipers. Only problem right now?- they are only making "fronts". Hopefully they will offer a rear replacement caliper someday soon, the stock iron caliper rears are the pain in the.....well, rear.
http://www.ssbrakes.com/products/det...maro&year=1987
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From: Yes I'm Dean
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If you at all studied the brake build I did you will see that eventhough I have larger rotors now, they are in fact lighter weight assemblies that the factory 10.5" setups. It is very true my quote above where I talked about not needing any larger rotors for autox. My brakes did not help me with any cooling issues due to there sixze, if anything they would hurt me due to the rotation mass. YET I built these as light as I could to get the best of both worlds. They help me on a road course with cooling and they still help me on an autox course with their rotation lightness- they were not cheap.
I never said larger rotors suck, I stated they hurt acceleration when they have more rotation mass. I have alum hubs, aluminum hats and drilled rotors for lightness in rotation mass making my 13's very compatable to standard 10.5's in rotation weight, yet much more powerful for highspeed road use. I have the best of all worlds- fact is fact.
I know you are being funny and joking, but I do like to be clear and quoted correctly
I never said larger rotors suck, I stated they hurt acceleration when they have more rotation mass. I have alum hubs, aluminum hats and drilled rotors for lightness in rotation mass making my 13's very compatable to standard 10.5's in rotation weight, yet much more powerful for highspeed road use. I have the best of all worlds- fact is fact.
I know you are being funny and joking, but I do like to be clear and quoted correctly
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by RTFC
If you at all studied the brake build I did you will see that eventhough I have larger rotors now, they are in fact lighter weight assemblies that the factory 10.5" setups. It is very true my quote above where I talked about not needing any larger rotors for autox. My brakes did not help me with any cooling issues due to there sixze, if anything they would hurt me due to the rotation mass. YET I built these as light as I could to get the best of both worlds. They help me on a road course with cooling and they still help me on an autox course with their rotation lightness- they were not cheap.
I never said larger rotors suck, I stated they hurt acceleration when they have more rotation mass. I have alum hubs, aluminum hats and drilled rotors for lightness in rotation mass making my 13's very compatable to standard 10.5's in rotation weight, yet much more powerful for highspeed road use. I have the best of all worlds- fact is fact.
I know you are being funny and joking, but I do like to be clear and quoted correctly
If you at all studied the brake build I did you will see that eventhough I have larger rotors now, they are in fact lighter weight assemblies that the factory 10.5" setups. It is very true my quote above where I talked about not needing any larger rotors for autox. My brakes did not help me with any cooling issues due to there sixze, if anything they would hurt me due to the rotation mass. YET I built these as light as I could to get the best of both worlds. They help me on a road course with cooling and they still help me on an autox course with their rotation lightness- they were not cheap.
I never said larger rotors suck, I stated they hurt acceleration when they have more rotation mass. I have alum hubs, aluminum hats and drilled rotors for lightness in rotation mass making my 13's very compatable to standard 10.5's in rotation weight, yet much more powerful for highspeed road use. I have the best of all worlds- fact is fact.
I know you are being funny and joking, but I do like to be clear and quoted correctly
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
What pads were you running with? I read you mentioned sometime that you were going to try the EBC greenstuff pads. Just wondering if you have tried them yet, and, if you have, what is your opinion?
By the way Dean, I get a return to sender, "Permanent Failure: Other address status" when I tried to send you a reply to your latest E-mail.
By the way Dean, I get a return to sender, "Permanent Failure: Other address status" when I tried to send you a reply to your latest E-mail.
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From: Yes I'm Dean
Car: Agood2.8,
Engine: V6rsr,
Transmission: Afrikingoodtime
I'm running them now on the Wilwood setup. I have had EBC greens on this setup now for about 4 months and they are working fine for street use and had no problem withthem at autox temps either. I tried EBC greens once onthe 10.5 rotors and the temps kept getting too high and leaving pad buildup on the rotors causeinga warped feeling in no time. Not having that problem with these yet even after running hard yesterday.
I noticed when I sent you a reply that I had not answered your first e-mail from about 2 weeks. You did get my response finally though it sounds. Wonder why your second did not go through.
E-mail address is still the same as this TGO link shows. I don't always check this e-mail address when I am very busy with work. RookieTFC@aol.com
I noticed when I sent you a reply that I had not answered your first e-mail from about 2 weeks. You did get my response finally though it sounds. Wonder why your second did not go through.
E-mail address is still the same as this TGO link shows. I don't always check this e-mail address when I am very busy with work. RookieTFC@aol.com
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Hey Dean...how long are your front lines, AN fitting to AN fitting?
Thanks for the time...
Ed
Thanks for the time...
Ed
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From: Yes I'm Dean
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Ed, its a Two picture post. They total 17" long from end to end including the 3an fittings crimped onto both ends.
Thius post shows the 7" loop to the hose retainer bracket.
Thius post shows the 7" loop to the hose retainer bracket.
Last edited by RTFC; Jun 28, 2005 at 10:49 PM.
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From: Yes I'm Dean
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Then the 10" length from the bracket to the hardline. This totaled the need on a 17" long hose.
Last edited by RTFC; Jun 28, 2005 at 10:51 PM.
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From: Yes I'm Dean
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I could not get the line retainer bracket thatEarls installs onto the 3rdgen line sets. They do not offer that piece separately for purchase. What I did is used Earls aluminum 6an hoseclamps as guide brackets for the line to retain inside so it stays away from the tire.
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From: Fort Mill, SC, USA
Car: '88 Iroc, '91 RS, and a '70 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI; 5.0 TBI; ZZ4/T56 on the ag
Transmission: A4, A4, slated to be a T56
Perfect, thank you. I'm trying to narrow down my line size and I thought 18"-20 was too long, so 17" or so will work...
Kudos!
Ed
Kudos!
Ed
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